Subframe connectors
#1
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Whats the best bolt in subframe connectors available for the money? Pros and cons between 2 and 3 point? 3's are obviously stronger.
#2
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We consider our SFC's a great combination of quality and value.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
Two points were the industry standard for many years and work great. Three points obviously add an extra mounting point - at the tunnel brace.
Since it's so difficult to measure the benefit, I usually tell customers two is better than zero and three is slightly stiffer than two. Unscientifically, a SFC car reacts more quickly and responds better. Also, SFC cars tends to retain door jamb alignment and wrinkle less sheet metal.
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
Two points were the industry standard for many years and work great. Three points obviously add an extra mounting point - at the tunnel brace.
Since it's so difficult to measure the benefit, I usually tell customers two is better than zero and three is slightly stiffer than two. Unscientifically, a SFC car reacts more quickly and responds better. Also, SFC cars tends to retain door jamb alignment and wrinkle less sheet metal.
ramey
#3
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See, this is why I like UMI. Was just coming in here to suggest UMI 3-points and they beat me to it; all while giving you a real world performance idea, not just "our stuff, buyz it now!" Personally, I'd say grab the 3-point if you want to feel more solid along Missouri backroads and 2-point if you're more of a highway racer. Weld-in will remove another breaking point if you can find a shop to do it.
Also, hello fellow Missourian.
Also, hello fellow Missourian.
#4
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Thanks guys for the advice! I do like the 3 point but I think i will take to the bolt in option. If for some reason I need to remove them removing a weld would be no fun!
#5
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See, this is why I like UMI. Was just coming in here to suggest UMI 3-points and they beat me to it; all while giving you a real world performance idea, not just "our stuff, buyz it now!" Personally, I'd say grab the 3-point if you want to feel more solid along Missouri backroads and 2-point if you're more of a highway racer. Weld-in will remove another breaking point if you can find a shop to do it.
Also, hello fellow Missourian.
Also, hello fellow Missourian.
#6
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KCIR? Actually never been there. Seems like something always comes up whenever the family wants to go. I fully plan on racing there as soon as I beef up my car in the next couple months.
Now if you mean the actual airport, no. Only a few places I run with friends and haven't even done that lately.
Now if you mean the actual airport, no. Only a few places I run with friends and haven't even done that lately.
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I have the UMI 3pt bolt ins and wouldn't think of ever looking back. I've never had them squeak or creak or come loose. Great option in my opinion. Really helps stiffin up a t-top car I think.
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#8
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KCIR? Actually never been there. Seems like something always comes up whenever the family wants to go. I fully plan on racing there as soon as I beef up my car in the next couple months.
Now if you mean the actual airport, no. Only a few places I run with friends and haven't even done that lately.
Now if you mean the actual airport, no. Only a few places I run with friends and haven't even done that lately.
#9
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We consider our SFC's a great combination of quality and value.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
Two points were the industry standard for many years and work great. Three points obviously add an extra mounting point - at the tunnel brace.
Since it's so difficult to measure the benefit, I usually tell customers two is better than zero and three is slightly stiffer than two. Unscientifically, a SFC car reacts more quickly and responds better. Also, SFC cars tends to retain door jamb alignment and wrinkle less sheet metal.
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
Two points were the industry standard for many years and work great. Three points obviously add an extra mounting point - at the tunnel brace.
Since it's so difficult to measure the benefit, I usually tell customers two is better than zero and three is slightly stiffer than two. Unscientifically, a SFC car reacts more quickly and responds better. Also, SFC cars tends to retain door jamb alignment and wrinkle less sheet metal.
ramey
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I'd love to. I'm waiting on the engine mods til I can get a Moser 9" for fear of grenading a stock axle with ~125k miles on it.
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I don't have a 4th gen, but I have a 3rd which are known for being very "flexible". I JUST installed a set of umi 3pt weld in SFC, and it absolutely transformed the car. To tell you how rigid they are, I had the front end on stands the other day, opened the door and there was virtually no flex.
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#17
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i'm not too sure about the gm's.....but on the fox bodies i've installed connectors on......i've found that bolt ons never work as well as being welded in. even if you bolt them in, then have them welded, but welding them seems to improve their functionality a LOT.
the other thing to note is "do NOT install them with the car hanging on a lift, or jacked up. install them with the car sitting on the ground as it would normally be.
#20
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i realize there's not much room underneath to do it on the ground. possibly you know someone that could get you the use of a bay at their work? if not, it's worth the money to pay someone to install them this way.
the reason i say this, is that all cars flex a little when you jack or lift them. sometimes it's not enough to make much difference...other times it can make a ton of difference.
any chance you're near south jersey? my shop's not the neatest in the world, but i'd consider letting you use the alignment rack in order to get them installed properly.