My plans for 02 Formula
05-31-2012, 08:55 PM
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My plans for 02 Formula Hey guys,
Well...I added a few simple bolt ons, and just got a Hooker Cat-back used from a member on here. Car is a lot more responsive now, and I had to stop myself from ordering TexasSpeed headers/y pipe.....slow it down if you must. I've read a ton on here, and realize...what good is adding power if you can't put it to the ground?
So, my 02 Formula is bone stock suspension wise. I am not a drag racer (this is the fastest car I've ever driven), and pretty much just cruise around town with the occasional spirited driving.
The first thing I am going to do is change out all the rotors with some slotted ones from a vendor. Being as though I do not know the history of the car...I would feel safer knowing the brakes are new and up to par (Not that they are really lacking now, but I do this with every car I buy). From many of your guy's posts, it seems Hawk's is the choice for brake pads. I will order some of those, as well as flush out the old fluid and replace. (I'll check all the other brake parts, my friend is a mechanic and can assist me-- just to make sure we are in good working order)
I am looking into getting some Bilstein shocks, as I have heard some pretty good reviews through the forums. As far as springs go....I would just like to replace them with something a little more "handling" oriented. I like the stock ride height, maybe something an inch lower just to lower the center of gravity (I'm still getting used to driving this "low"...my other ride is a Nissan Frontier and I'm used to sitting "higher"). I have heard it's a decent idea to replace the strut mounts, I will look into this.
Since my car has t-tops....I will look into getting SFC's from one of the vendors here. I have a good friend of mine who is a welder, who can help me with such.
Since money is a little tight, this will be a on-going project throughout the next year or so. The mod bug has bit me pretty hard, but I feel I should hold off on any more performance mods until I tackle the suspension. Any input would be appreciated, preferably with other Formula owners just to see what they've done and recommend. I have done some searches, and have a general idea of what can be done-- but who better to ask than fellow F-body enthusiasts?
Thanks guys,
Kenny D
Well...I added a few simple bolt ons, and just got a Hooker Cat-back used from a member on here. Car is a lot more responsive now, and I had to stop myself from ordering TexasSpeed headers/y pipe.....slow it down if you must. I've read a ton on here, and realize...what good is adding power if you can't put it to the ground?
So, my 02 Formula is bone stock suspension wise. I am not a drag racer (this is the fastest car I've ever driven), and pretty much just cruise around town with the occasional spirited driving.
The first thing I am going to do is change out all the rotors with some slotted ones from a vendor. Being as though I do not know the history of the car...I would feel safer knowing the brakes are new and up to par (Not that they are really lacking now, but I do this with every car I buy). From many of your guy's posts, it seems Hawk's is the choice for brake pads. I will order some of those, as well as flush out the old fluid and replace. (I'll check all the other brake parts, my friend is a mechanic and can assist me-- just to make sure we are in good working order)
I am looking into getting some Bilstein shocks, as I have heard some pretty good reviews through the forums. As far as springs go....I would just like to replace them with something a little more "handling" oriented. I like the stock ride height, maybe something an inch lower just to lower the center of gravity (I'm still getting used to driving this "low"...my other ride is a Nissan Frontier and I'm used to sitting "higher"). I have heard it's a decent idea to replace the strut mounts, I will look into this.
Since my car has t-tops....I will look into getting SFC's from one of the vendors here. I have a good friend of mine who is a welder, who can help me with such.
Since money is a little tight, this will be a on-going project throughout the next year or so. The mod bug has bit me pretty hard, but I feel I should hold off on any more performance mods until I tackle the suspension. Any input would be appreciated, preferably with other Formula owners just to see what they've done and recommend. I have done some searches, and have a general idea of what can be done-- but who better to ask than fellow F-body enthusiasts?
Thanks guys,
Kenny D
05-31-2012, 09:55 PM
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I'm running Bilstein's with stock springs and although the ride is firmer, it's not harsh. Between the shocks, UMI 2pt. SFC's, and EBC Sport rotors, Redstuff pads, and Firetone Wide Oval Indy500's, the overall ride/handling and braking is very very good for a daily driver.
06-01-2012, 07:55 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Yeah, it's going to be a work in progress. Time to start the part piling in the room haha. Little by little, maybe buy myself a part a month just to get it going, start stacking them up.
06-01-2012, 02:13 PM
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Strano makes a very good spring. Moderate drop in ride height and they are an awesome spring for handling applications. BMR is also another choice.
SFC's I would go with UMI 2 or 3 point. The 2 point will be more than adequete for your application and will be lighter, therefore less expensive to ship.
SFC's I would go with UMI 2 or 3 point. The 2 point will be more than adequete for your application and will be lighter, therefore less expensive to ship.
06-15-2012, 03:16 PM
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Strano makes a very good spring. Moderate drop in ride height and they are an awesome spring for handling applications. BMR is also another choice.
SFC's I would go with UMI 2 or 3 point. The 2 point will be more than adequete for your application and will be lighter, therefore less expensive to ship.
SFC's I would go with UMI 2 or 3 point. The 2 point will be more than adequete for your application and will be lighter, therefore less expensive to ship.
I have decided to first replace all of my rotors as well as get some Hawk pads. I'm going to go slotted, I'll figure out from where when I get time to do some more research.
On top of that, I'm going to order the BMR weld in SFC, as well as their front/rear sway bar package.
That'll be the start, is there anything I may need while installing these and I could order too, or is it pretty much straight forward?
06-15-2012, 11:10 PM
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Should be pretty straight forward. The subframe connectors and sway bars should come with everything you need to install. Just make sure you install the subframe connectors with the suspension loaded!!! Not while the car is on a lift.
Rotors I would suggest brakemotive or stoptech. I've been hearing ALOT of good things about them lately, and they are very affordable.
Rotors I would suggest brakemotive or stoptech. I've been hearing ALOT of good things about them lately, and they are very affordable.
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06-16-2012, 05:49 PM
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Should be pretty straight forward. The subframe connectors and sway bars should come with everything you need to install. Just make sure you install the subframe connectors with the suspension loaded!!! Not while the car is on a lift.
Rotors I would suggest brakemotive or stoptech. I've been hearing ALOT of good things about them lately, and they are very affordable.
Rotors I would suggest brakemotive or stoptech. I've been hearing ALOT of good things about them lately, and they are very affordable.
Thank you redline.
06-16-2012, 10:17 PM
#9
First of all, I would hold off on replacing the rotors. Get the brakes checked and if everything is in spec, leave them alone. If they aren't broke, don't fix 'em. Slotted rotors won't do anything for you. If you DO need rotors, get some Brembo blanks. Do a search on here and get the skinny on good brakes for these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
06-16-2012, 10:41 PM
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First of all, I would hold off on replacing the rotors. Get the brakes checked and if everything is in spec, leave them alone. If they aren't broke, don't fix 'em. Slotted rotors won't do anything for you. If you DO need rotors, get some Brembo blanks. Do a search on here and get the skinny on good brakes for these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
I like the Hawk Performance Quiet Slot rotors. I figure braking is the single most important aspect, might as well replace them because I am not sure if they were even changed prior to my ownership. I'll toss on their HPS pads, and call it a done deal.
Right now, my front breaks are very noisy when stopping. It sounds like absolute ****, the dealer had no prior knowledge of changing them or have anything on record. I'd rather be safe than sorry and replace the rotors/pads and flush out the fluids and start anew.
With shocks, I've read you might as well order some mounts since these are ten year old cars. I do not want to lower my car, I like the stock ride height personally and don't want to be a low-rider of any kind. But I guess 3/4 of an inch isn't much. The only reason I was going to do the other mods is because if I was going to do shocks, I am going to order new springs since I'll be there anyway. These are at least bolt in/weld in.
As for SFC, I've seen numerous posts saying it's one of the first things to do with t-top cars. Would this not help?
If I'm wrong, please feel free to correct me. I'm new to these cars, and just trying to find my way!
Thanks,
Kenny
Last edited by xxKennyDxx; 06-16-2012 at 10:54 PM.
06-17-2012, 01:14 AM
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First of all, I would hold off on replacing the rotors. Get the brakes checked and if everything is in spec, leave them alone. If they aren't broke, don't fix 'em. Slotted rotors won't do anything for you. If you DO need rotors, get some Brembo blanks. Do a search on here and get the skinny on good brakes for these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
First thing: get a set of Bilstein shocks and while installing them, do the heater hose mod in the rear and cut 3/4" to 1" off the top of the front springs. This will give you a little drop and a very nice ride - for a relatively small amount of money.
The stock shocks weren't great when new and the Bilsteins will give you a marked improvement. Forget about SFC's until you've been on your new shocks for a while. Good shocks are the #1 mod to be done immediately after purchasing one of these cars.
Brembo, obviously, makes quality brake components. But they are also expensive. Look into the Stoptech combo. I will soon be purchasing their rotors and street pads. Very affordable and great performance.
If you have the funds, buy yourself a set of quality springs like I listed previously. Sure doing the heater hose mod and cutting the front will save you some money, but I would much rather spend the little extra dough to get a nice spring.
I also would tell you to get the SFC's now unless you don't have the cash on hand. They are one of the most important modifications to these cars, and should have come on them from the factory. At no time would I ever tell somebody NOT to get SFC's. Just a great investment all around.
As far as doing the shocks, yes you will most likely need a new pair of upper shock mounts. The esign of them from the factory is terrible and they let water just sit inside of them while they corrode/rust. They aren't cheap either. People on here have talked alot about the aftermarket mounts being slightly "off" where the holes are drilled. Quite a few have had to drill the holes out wider to get them to line up with the car. The OEM mounts, however, are something insane like $200 a piece.
Last edited by redlineracing; 06-17-2012 at 01:20 AM.
06-17-2012, 02:28 PM
#12
As for drilled and/or slotted rotors, https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...tions-faq.html
I have SFC's on both my cars. On the A4 car they added a lot of impact harshness but helped with creases forming on the RR quarter from launching. On the M6 car I added bolt-ons to help with t-top creaking and they didn't do much. Squirting some PB Blaster into the slots helped way more. Otherwise, I can't notice any effect from them on that car.
As for upper mounts, you may need them, you may not. Don't assume you do and buy parts you may not need in advance. I've replaced front shocks six times on f-bodies and have never needed to replace them.
Like I said, start with getting your brakes checked out, but be selective about parts and pricing if they need to be done. Purchase some Bilstein shocks and see how your car feels once they're installed. Then you can decide about SFC's.
I have SFC's on both my cars. On the A4 car they added a lot of impact harshness but helped with creases forming on the RR quarter from launching. On the M6 car I added bolt-ons to help with t-top creaking and they didn't do much. Squirting some PB Blaster into the slots helped way more. Otherwise, I can't notice any effect from them on that car.
As for upper mounts, you may need them, you may not. Don't assume you do and buy parts you may not need in advance. I've replaced front shocks six times on f-bodies and have never needed to replace them.
Like I said, start with getting your brakes checked out, but be selective about parts and pricing if they need to be done. Purchase some Bilstein shocks and see how your car feels once they're installed. Then you can decide about SFC's.
06-28-2012, 08:15 AM
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Good choice on your pads and rotors. I like the Hawk pads, and DBA rotors. I've used the ceramic,HP and HP+'s.
Frame connectors are a good mod if you plan on keeping the car along time. They help hold the car together over time.
The torque arm made a big difference on my car. I moved it of the tranny with a relocation bracket. It was one of my last suspension mods. it should have been one of the first.
Frame connectors are a good mod if you plan on keeping the car along time. They help hold the car together over time.
The torque arm made a big difference on my car. I moved it of the tranny with a relocation bracket. It was one of my last suspension mods. it should have been one of the first.
06-28-2012, 10:53 AM
#15
Hello there. Sounds like you've thought this out pretty well, refreshing to see!
If there is anything we can help you out with, let me know. I see you're interested in our subframe connectors, sway bars, and possibly our springs too. We could put together a package with those parts and the Bilstein shocks you want and save you a little money. Just let me know what you would like to do. Also, if you have any questions about any specific part, shoot it my way and I'll give you some info. But I would say that your list of parts are covering some good essentials and also adding to the fun-to-drive factor.
- Kevin
If there is anything we can help you out with, let me know. I see you're interested in our subframe connectors, sway bars, and possibly our springs too. We could put together a package with those parts and the Bilstein shocks you want and save you a little money. Just let me know what you would like to do. Also, if you have any questions about any specific part, shoot it my way and I'll give you some info. But I would say that your list of parts are covering some good essentials and also adding to the fun-to-drive factor.
- Kevin
06-28-2012, 11:47 AM
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The best way to save money is to eventually figure out that you techically don't need anything unless you want to improve or fix something. If you race and your car has no roll control, you typically want shocks. If it's not stopping well you typically may need new pads/rotors and some brake maintenance. If your daily driving, then you can pretty much drive the car as is 
Although I know the car is a hobby and it's pretty fun to add new parts to it so you can make that badass long list of mods in your signature
Although I know the car is a hobby and it's pretty fun to add new parts to it so you can make that badass long list of mods in your signature
06-28-2012, 12:41 PM
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You write very clearly and really well, dude. It's refreshing to see your regard for decent compositional style around here -- keep it up!
I really like the suspension mods that I bought from LS1Tech.com sponsor UMI Performance nearly ten years ago; collectively, they made tremendous enhancements to my car and, to me, took it to a whole new level of performance and refinement. One thing that I liked at the time I bought my upgrades from the folks at UMI was the price and build quality of all of their products. At that time of my purchases, UMI was a fledgling company, and the team's components were less expensive than comparable offerning from other companies such as BMR, Spohn, Eibach, and Hotchkis. Here is a list of the parts that I ordered and installed:
- UMI front swaybar
- UMI rear heavy duty drag swabar
- UMI rear lower control arms
- UMI rear adjustable end links
- UMI control arm relocation brackets
- UMI panhard bar
- Torque arm relocation bracket
- Drive shaft safety loop/center brace
As I said, these parts have served me well on my daily driver, both around town and on the interstate; I highly recommend them to anyone. I grease the fittings each summer and, aside from road dirt, everything looks and feels as it did when it was new ten years ago.
I haven't really priced these items on the UMI website since my purchase, so I can't say whether or not they're still as cost-effective today as when I bought mine.
Lastly, I did buy a Hotchkis torque arm, but I got it brand-new at a tremendous price reduction and with free shipping on ebay. It, too, has served me well for nearly ten years running.
Regardless of where you get your suspension mods, I believe that, based on my personal experience, you can't go wrong with a duplicate or similar setup, especially since you've explained how you drive your car. But that's just my opinion, so take it for what you think it's worth.
I truly wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you choose to take. Happy motoring, man!
I really like the suspension mods that I bought from LS1Tech.com sponsor UMI Performance nearly ten years ago; collectively, they made tremendous enhancements to my car and, to me, took it to a whole new level of performance and refinement. One thing that I liked at the time I bought my upgrades from the folks at UMI was the price and build quality of all of their products. At that time of my purchases, UMI was a fledgling company, and the team's components were less expensive than comparable offerning from other companies such as BMR, Spohn, Eibach, and Hotchkis. Here is a list of the parts that I ordered and installed:
- UMI front swaybar
- UMI rear heavy duty drag swabar
- UMI rear lower control arms
- UMI rear adjustable end links
- UMI control arm relocation brackets
- UMI panhard bar
- Torque arm relocation bracket
- Drive shaft safety loop/center brace
As I said, these parts have served me well on my daily driver, both around town and on the interstate; I highly recommend them to anyone. I grease the fittings each summer and, aside from road dirt, everything looks and feels as it did when it was new ten years ago.
I haven't really priced these items on the UMI website since my purchase, so I can't say whether or not they're still as cost-effective today as when I bought mine.
Lastly, I did buy a Hotchkis torque arm, but I got it brand-new at a tremendous price reduction and with free shipping on ebay. It, too, has served me well for nearly ten years running.
Regardless of where you get your suspension mods, I believe that, based on my personal experience, you can't go wrong with a duplicate or similar setup, especially since you've explained how you drive your car. But that's just my opinion, so take it for what you think it's worth.
I truly wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you choose to take. Happy motoring, man!
06-28-2012, 12:50 PM
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Now why are you saying slotted rotors are basically a waste of money? If he does spirited driving or any road racing/autocrossing they most certainly are not.
Brembo, obviously, makes quality brake components. But they are also expensive. Look into the Stoptech combo. I will soon be purchasing their rotors and street pads. Very affordable and great performance.
If you have the funds, buy yourself a set of quality springs like I listed previously. Sure doing the heater hose mod and cutting the front will save you some money, but I would much rather spend the little extra dough to get a nice spring.
I also would tell you to get the SFC's now unless you don't have the cash on hand. They are one of the most important modifications to these cars, and should have come on them from the factory. At no time would I ever tell somebody NOT to get SFC's. Just a great investment all around.
As far as doing the shocks, yes you will most likely need a new pair of upper shock mounts. The esign of them from the factory is terrible and they let water just sit inside of them while they corrode/rust. They aren't cheap either. People on here have talked alot about the aftermarket mounts being slightly "off" where the holes are drilled. Quite a few have had to drill the holes out wider to get them to line up with the car. The OEM mounts, however, are something insane like $200 a piece.
Brembo, obviously, makes quality brake components. But they are also expensive. Look into the Stoptech combo. I will soon be purchasing their rotors and street pads. Very affordable and great performance.
If you have the funds, buy yourself a set of quality springs like I listed previously. Sure doing the heater hose mod and cutting the front will save you some money, but I would much rather spend the little extra dough to get a nice spring.
I also would tell you to get the SFC's now unless you don't have the cash on hand. They are one of the most important modifications to these cars, and should have come on them from the factory. At no time would I ever tell somebody NOT to get SFC's. Just a great investment all around.
As far as doing the shocks, yes you will most likely need a new pair of upper shock mounts. The esign of them from the factory is terrible and they let water just sit inside of them while they corrode/rust. They aren't cheap either. People on here have talked alot about the aftermarket mounts being slightly "off" where the holes are drilled. Quite a few have had to drill the holes out wider to get them to line up with the car. The OEM mounts, however, are something insane like $200 a piece.
^^^ I agree with what this dude says. He makes some excellent points, and his sentiments mirror my own. I wish you the best of luck no matter who you listen to or which direction you choose on your own!!!
06-28-2012, 06:45 PM
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You write very clearly and really well, dude. It's refreshing to see your regard for decent compositional style around here -- keep it up!
I really like the suspension mods that I bought from LS1Tech.com sponsor UMI Performance nearly ten years ago; collectively, they made tremendous enhancements to my car and, to me, took it to a whole new level of performance and refinement. One thing that I liked at the time I bought my upgrades from the folks at UMI was the price and build quality of all of their products. At that time of my purchases, UMI was a fledgling company, and the team's components were less expensive than comparable offerning from other companies such as BMR, Spohn, Eibach, and Hotchkis. Here is a list of the parts that I ordered and installed:
- UMI front swaybar
- UMI rear heavy duty drag swabar
- UMI rear lower control arms
- UMI rear adjustable end links
- UMI control arm relocation brackets
- UMI panhard bar
- Torque arm relocation bracket
- Drive shaft safety loop/center brace
As I said, these parts have served me well on my daily driver, both around town and on the interstate; I highly recommend them to anyone. I grease the fittings each summer and, aside from road dirt, everything looks and feels as it did when it was new ten years ago.
I haven't really priced these items on the UMI website since my purchase, so I can't say whether or not they're still as cost-effective today as when I bought mine.
Lastly, I did buy a Hotchkis torque arm, but I got it brand-new at a tremendous price reduction and with free shipping on ebay. It, too, has served me well for nearly ten years running.
Regardless of where you get your suspension mods, I believe that, based on my personal experience, you can't go wrong with a duplicate or similar setup, especially since you've explained how you drive your car. But that's just my opinion, so take it for what you think it's worth.
I truly wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you choose to take. Happy motoring, man!
I really like the suspension mods that I bought from LS1Tech.com sponsor UMI Performance nearly ten years ago; collectively, they made tremendous enhancements to my car and, to me, took it to a whole new level of performance and refinement. One thing that I liked at the time I bought my upgrades from the folks at UMI was the price and build quality of all of their products. At that time of my purchases, UMI was a fledgling company, and the team's components were less expensive than comparable offerning from other companies such as BMR, Spohn, Eibach, and Hotchkis. Here is a list of the parts that I ordered and installed:
- UMI front swaybar
- UMI rear heavy duty drag swabar
- UMI rear lower control arms
- UMI rear adjustable end links
- UMI control arm relocation brackets
- UMI panhard bar
- Torque arm relocation bracket
- Drive shaft safety loop/center brace
As I said, these parts have served me well on my daily driver, both around town and on the interstate; I highly recommend them to anyone. I grease the fittings each summer and, aside from road dirt, everything looks and feels as it did when it was new ten years ago.
I haven't really priced these items on the UMI website since my purchase, so I can't say whether or not they're still as cost-effective today as when I bought mine.
Lastly, I did buy a Hotchkis torque arm, but I got it brand-new at a tremendous price reduction and with free shipping on ebay. It, too, has served me well for nearly ten years running.
Regardless of where you get your suspension mods, I believe that, based on my personal experience, you can't go wrong with a duplicate or similar setup, especially since you've explained how you drive your car. But that's just my opinion, so take it for what you think it's worth.
I truly wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you choose to take. Happy motoring, man!
Slowly but surely things will come together. Don't get me wrong-- this car is MINT. However, what is the point of adding power if I do not have the ability to control it and put that to the ground!?
Since I have a daily driver, this really gives me the ability to "go as I choose". I am excited to begin the modding, anyway you look at it: These cars are 10+ years old!
06-28-2012, 08:55 PM
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I have had my 02 Formula for about two years now and like you I have little intentions of drag racing. I would definitely recommend the SFCs first before anything else. I have the bolt-on 3pt ones from UMI and they slightly improved rear grip and noticeably increased the torsional stiffness of the car (which greatly improves the effectiveness of handling mods). I cannot comment on the 2pt ones as I have not driven one of these cars with them on, but I postulate that the increase in torsional stiffness would not be a great. If your just tooling around town the 2pt are probably fine, but if you do the crazy back-road carving like I do the 3pt may be the better choice. A torque arm and LCAs are next on my mod list. I also agree with what was stated above.