94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

^^^ I agree. I had some UMI adjustable LCA's with the rod ends and they were noisy over bumps and shitty streets.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

The progressive rate SLP Eibach spring should provide a decent ride quality.


Front Suspension:

• Jack up the front of the car
  
• Examine the bushing for sign of failure (dry rot, torn):
  
  bad caster bushing
  
  
  
  
  Tie rod ends, and ball joints:
  
• Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, pull on the wheel at those positions for play
• If you feel play, you have worn ball joints. It'll be helpful to have a friend watch as your pulling on the wheel to determine if the play is in the upper or lower joint.
  
• Grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position, pull on the wheel at those positions for play
• If you feel play, you have worn inner or out tie rod ends. It'll be helpful to have a friend watch as your pulling on the wheel to determine if the play is in the inner our outer end

Rear Suspension:

• Check Rod ends for play (end play will cause clunking)
• If you've got failure here switching to roto-joints would be an improvement. I think the vendors should offer rubber bushed adjustable PHB's. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that most people are after the centering ability, and couldn't care less about the "low deflection" of the poly or rod ends. Just a guess.
  
• Check that jam nuts are tight (if they're loose you'll get clunking and banging)
  
• Examine wheel wells for sign of contact
• Center wheels in well if not centered
• Check the bolts, as Ryan suggested, on the LCA's. You'll still get the best NVH qualities out of the plain rubber OEM LCA's.
  
• Examine the bump stops for failure.
  
  
  Remove aluminum spacer (you'll pick up some rear suspension travel)

Before



After

WS6Guy25

iTrader: (1)

I've been looking around at different vendors "lowering package" and it includes Control Arm relocation brackets. I know I did not use these brackets when I installed the LCA and/or my shocks/springs. Would failure to use the bracket cause the disturbance I am expierencing?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

No, that shouldnt have any effect

joe77

I have a very similar issue with the sound atleast. Any small bump or crack would sound like something was coming through the passenger floor, near the back. This was after I put on lca that are poly and rod. The poly end was on the body side. I took off the passenger side lca and repaled with the factory arm and the loud noise over the slightest crack went away. If you still have the stock parts migt be something you want to try, as it doesnt take long to do.

My parts:
koni sa in the rear
umi double adjustable phb like yours
spohn lcas
stock 10 bolt
stock springs
ploy motor mount
poly trans mount
exhaust has been checked

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I say get under the car and go over all of the bolts. Retighten everything to the correct spec first, then take it for a drive and see if the noise is still there. Check your tranny mount. Does your shifter move alot under throttle? If it does your exhaust could be moving more than you think. Shitty tires will make it drive like crap, you mentioned tires were getting bad. Don't go and start replacing parts until you find the problem.

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

Put the stock LCA's back on and that will help. I did that with my car. I am also swapping out my roto joints as soon as my poly bushings come in. My panhard bar rattles really bad now and makes the same noises yours does. Hopefully the poly bushings fix it. If not I'm probably going back to stock.

Azar_Hawke

iTrader: (5)

I was just about to say this. My car used to jump around...finally jacked it up and there was so much play in the tie rods I was scared.

Replaced them, and boom, problem gone.

Sail Hatan

I have poly/poly lca's, and they make a bad thump. But it was due to them being loose, tighten the hell out of them. The think got so bad I didn't wanna drive it.