I think I Ruined My Car's Suspension
#1
Staging Lane
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I think I Ruined My Car's Suspension
First let me start by saying I've owned this car since 2005 and it has 38k on it. But I've done suspension mods to it that I wish I never did. The car handles like absolute crap. Theres banging over bumps, sudden jerks, and it's frankly hard to control at times especially if the driver has never driven the car before. Below is the list of mods:
Eibach/Bilstein SLP package
SLP subframe connectors
Control Arms (forget the brand)
Double Adjustable panhard bar
Strut tower bar
18" wheels c5 zo6 (does that even matter?)
Let me start by saying I don't know if the panhard bar is adjusted properly. When I get under the car and look at the bar it is essentially parallel with the axle.
The car bangs and makes like a hollow thunking noise when going over bumps even small little potholes or minor cracks in the pavement.
I've come to the end i really can't handle how shitty the car rides. Ive considered getting rid of it but i just cant because it really is such a beautiful car and in pristine condition.
I'm beggin for help here anyone that can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Or in the alternative if you know of any shops in the new England area that specialize in suspension on f body's I would love to give them a call.
Thanks guys I appreciate anything you can help me out with.
Eibach/Bilstein SLP package
SLP subframe connectors
Control Arms (forget the brand)
Double Adjustable panhard bar
Strut tower bar
18" wheels c5 zo6 (does that even matter?)
Let me start by saying I don't know if the panhard bar is adjusted properly. When I get under the car and look at the bar it is essentially parallel with the axle.
The car bangs and makes like a hollow thunking noise when going over bumps even small little potholes or minor cracks in the pavement.
I've come to the end i really can't handle how shitty the car rides. Ive considered getting rid of it but i just cant because it really is such a beautiful car and in pristine condition.
I'm beggin for help here anyone that can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Or in the alternative if you know of any shops in the new England area that specialize in suspension on f body's I would love to give them a call.
Thanks guys I appreciate anything you can help me out with.
#3
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Sounds like you could use an alignment. Is the bump/clank coming from the rear or front of the car? If its the rear you could take out the rear springs and cycle the suspension from the bumpstops to full droop and see if anything gets close to touching anything and make sure there is no binding.
#7
Staging Lane
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The control arms are UMI I think Non-adjustable with poly
The panhard rod is a double adjustable UMI
I definately need an allignment for sure and I will probably get new tires soon so a tire balance is in order.
I am going to do the allignment and balance within the next couple of weeks.
The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight.
The panhard rod is a double adjustable UMI
I definately need an allignment for sure and I will probably get new tires soon so a tire balance is in order.
I am going to do the allignment and balance within the next couple of weeks.
The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight.
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#8
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The control arms are UMI I think Non-adjustable with poly
The panhard rod is a double adjustable UMI
I definately need an allignment for sure and I will probably get new tires soon so a tire balance is in order.
I am going to do the allignment and balance within the next couple of weeks.
The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight.
The panhard rod is a double adjustable UMI
I definately need an allignment for sure and I will probably get new tires soon so a tire balance is in order.
I am going to do the allignment and balance within the next couple of weeks.
The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight.
The UMI PHB is it double adjustable with rod ends at both ends?
Are the Eibach springs SLP Eibach's, Prokit, or Sportlines?
#9
i think i may know your problem..is your panhard ends like ball joints that move around? a long time ago i bought lower control arms that had those ends and it was doing exactly what your describing and i swapped them out in like 2 days. ever since i put the solid LCA's in the noise went away. if i were you id change out that panhard bar for one with an adjustable piece in the center like this
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=279
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=279
#10
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We haven't heard yet whether he has a rod end equipped PHB. IF he does, It could be the jam nuts are loose, or the rod ends have gone bad. Rod ends do make noise even when new. At the edge or their own travel (rotating side to side) they click, either against themselves or the housing they're in. When they loosen up they make even more noise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvoZy...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvoZy...ature=youtu.be
#11
I was having a strange 'thunking' noise in the back that I couldn't figure out for a while. It actually turned out to be the e-brake cable banging against the underside of the body where it routes over the rear axle. You said you checked the exhaust but did you check that cable?
#13
FormerVendor
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The poly/poly control arms won't cause rattles like everyone is explaining. The only time they will transmit more noise is if the bolts are tight enough. Since you have SFC's make sure the front control arm bolt is TIGHT. Since the SFC's most likely wrap around the control arm mount it will take more force and pressure from the bolt to tighten the control arm properly.
If the rod ends in the panhard bar are wore out they can offer some noise.
But check those control arm bolts, the thud sounds like the SFC/control arm area not being tight.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
If the rod ends in the panhard bar are wore out they can offer some noise.
But check those control arm bolts, the thud sounds like the SFC/control arm area not being tight.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
#14
TECH Resident
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Dont start changing parts until you find the problem. Tires and alignment will help the ride a lot but it does sound like something is loose. I had a bad trans mount on my 96 and I would have sworn it was coming from the rear end. You need to get under it (on jack stands) and check everything out. Use a pry bar.
#15
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The poly/poly control arms won't cause rattles like everyone is explaining. The only time they will transmit more noise is if the bolts are tight enough. Since you have SFC's make sure the front control arm bolt is TIGHT. Since the SFC's most likely wrap around the control arm mount it will take more force and pressure from the bolt to tighten the control arm properly.
If the rod ends in the panhard bar are wore out they can offer some noise.
But check those control arm bolts, the thud sounds like the SFC/control arm area not being tight.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
If the rod ends in the panhard bar are wore out they can offer some noise.
But check those control arm bolts, the thud sounds like the SFC/control arm area not being tight.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
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Other notes:
- "I've come to the end i really can't handle how shitty the car rides."
- "The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight."
Modifications:
- Springs: Eibach ???
- Shocks: SLP Bilstein
- SLP subframe connectors
- UMI Poly/Poly Control Arms
- Some type of Double Adjustable panhard bar (What type, Rod Ended, Poly bushed?)
- Strut tower bar
- 18" wheels c5 zo6 (does that even matter?), Yes it matters, increased mass of any unsprung weight will reduce ride quality.
- Bridgestone Potenza ???/??/18
Call me crazy, but I don't think fixing just the a PHB or tightening bolts on the LCA's would address all those issues. We need more complete information.
We also need to know the use of the car? Daily driver, weekend toy, drag car, autocross, some combination?
Last edited by lees02WS6; 06-14-2012 at 02:27 PM.
#16
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
I completely agree. I was just trying to correct the few people that mentioned poly control arms being the source of the noise and issues, quite a few mentioned changing them will fix the issue, I disagree. The things I mentioned are areas to check in which I have experience in regarding the UMI items on the car.
#18
Staging Lane
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i think i may know your problem..is your panhard ends like ball joints that move around? a long time ago i bought lower control arms that had those ends and it was doing exactly what your describing and i swapped them out in like 2 days. ever since i put the solid LCA's in the noise went away. if i were you id change out that panhard bar for one with an adjustable piece in the center like this
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=279
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=279
And yes I still have the stock control arms in front.
The springs are the SLP kit the valved bilsteins and eibach spring package.
His problems extend beyond just clunking if you read what I read from his post. So far, I have heard
Other notes:
Modifications:
Call me crazy, but I don't think fixing just the a PHB or tightening bolts on the LCA's would address all those issues. We need more complete information.
We also need to know the use of the car? Daily driver, weekend toy, drag car, autocross, some combination?
- [*]
- [*]
- [*]
- [*]
- [*]
Other notes:
- "I've come to the end i really can't handle how shitty the car rides."
- "The banging/thunking is coming from the rear. It is not the exhaust, because I have check that, it is on there tight."
Modifications:
- Springs: Eibach ???
- Shocks: SLP Bilstein
- SLP subframe connectors
- UMI Poly/Poly Control Arms
- Some type of Double Adjustable panhard bar (What type, Rod Ended, Poly bushed?)
- Strut tower bar
- 18" wheels c5 zo6 (does that even matter?), Yes it matters, increased mass of any unsprung weight will reduce ride quality.
- Bridgestone Potenza ???/??/18
Call me crazy, but I don't think fixing just the a PHB or tightening bolts on the LCA's would address all those issues. We need more complete information.
We also need to know the use of the car? Daily driver, weekend toy, drag car, autocross, some combination?
The car is garaged probably like 7 months out of the year. It's a weekend toy, but I do take it to the drag strip, but it's def not a drag car.
#19
I can tell you right off where the "clunking and banging" is coming from. The 4th gens used foam bump-stops that wear down into nothing and become a nuisance when a car has been lowered. Replace them with easily modified, 3rd gen, f-body, rubber bump-stops and that should end the "banging" noise entirely.
The scraping noise that your getting in the rear end is an incorrect pan-bar adjustment. You will need to shorten the panhard bar until the driver-side tire no longer makes contact with the wheel well at full compression.
This happens to a lot of people with lowering springs and large tire combos. Its an easy fix.
As far as the "twitchy" handling is concerned, the wheel offset may be incorrect because of the larger wheels. This will cause the tire contact patch to bias towards the outside shoulder of the tire and ****** the tire about. The offset can be easily corrected with wheel spacers.
A final alignment job will correct any other problems after these things have been resolved.
hope this helps.
The scraping noise that your getting in the rear end is an incorrect pan-bar adjustment. You will need to shorten the panhard bar until the driver-side tire no longer makes contact with the wheel well at full compression.
This happens to a lot of people with lowering springs and large tire combos. Its an easy fix.
As far as the "twitchy" handling is concerned, the wheel offset may be incorrect because of the larger wheels. This will cause the tire contact patch to bias towards the outside shoulder of the tire and ****** the tire about. The offset can be easily corrected with wheel spacers.
A final alignment job will correct any other problems after these things have been resolved.
hope this helps.