Hot2000ss

right now iv got slotted and drilled rotors with EBC Greenstuff brake pads on my 2000 ss camaro, they work decent but when i get on it hard and start hittin high speeds and go to brake hard i feel like i need a little more braking power and these leave tons of dust most of the time whats the best brake pads youd reccomend? im gunna need new ones soon so thats why im trying to see what to go with next and a month or two im gunna start hittin the tracks cant wait haha well if anyone knows let me know thanks!

Hot2000ss

anyone?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I personally run the Hawk DTC-70 pads, but they may be overkill for the F-body, which is lighter than my GTO. Also, the F-bodies are very prone to rear-wheel lockup when going to an aggressive pad. So a proportioning valve might be something you'll want to consider. The poor mans way to counter this, it run a less aggressive pad in the rear - it works, but it's not ideal. For the F-body, I'll suggest what I believe Justin from GM High Tech was running in the STi Killer the last track day - the Hawk DTC-60 brake pads. Good torque and heat range.

My personal experience with Hawk's racing pads has been very excellent. They devour rotors, but they'll get your ride down to a halt safely and consistently. If there is a less rotor-hungry pad out there I would like to try it as well.
- Kevin

Hot2000ss

ohh hey thanks for the response!!! and ok ill try those out then cause my brakes need to be quite a bit better and once i get on the track i know im gunna want more braking power thanks alot!! where would be the best place to get those for a really good price?

JD_AMG

I hear nothing but good things about hawk pads, but careful with running an aggressive pad in the rear is it can cause the rears to lock up and hop. Also while you are at it ditch the drilled rotors (as they do nothing for your performance, but can potentially crack) for some quality blank ones.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

^yep ditch the rotors and get some NAPA blank rotors with lifetime replacement warranty. Also the pads are dependant on what kind of track use you will see. short AutoX then a Hawk HP will be enough, RoadX then you need more bite like the pads stated above. and be careful on the "bite" on the rear.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

sticky tires help a LOT as well.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Indeed about the rotors. I forgot to mention that in my post. You'll want to avoid cross-drilled rotors at all costs in a road racing situation. As it was stated, the holes in the rotor create a starting point for cracking to occur...and yes...they will crack. Rotors are certainly one of those items you'll have a hard time finding the facts about on a forum, but I can assure you that cross-drilled rotors are not your choice for heavy track use.

Blank rotors actually provide the most friction contact area for the pad, and are extremely affordable. I personally run two-piece slotted fronts or a single piece PowerSlot front rotors. They're a little more money for sure, but the two-piece design saved about 4-lbs per side, if I remember correctly. So a reduction unsprung weight is always awesome.

- Kevin

To Add: You can only brake as effectively as your tires can hold. While in increase in quality braking components can greatly improve consistency and resistance to fade, the actual braking force will not improve by much if your tires cannot support the improved braking torque.

Hot2000ss

ahhh mann but those look so nice on it right now too lol but alright eventually i prolly will switch over i have had people tell me about that so far so good nd look great haha ill keep for awhile and try out those hawk pads then thanks guys!! and yea about the tires your right i do need new tires also ill defenetly get them before i hit the track. its gunna be my first time when i go im goin to Adams Track dont know if any of you heard of it? but im gunna jsut start there practice some eventually go somewhere bigger just want somehwere small to practice since iv never done it before.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Autocross is a good learning center for drivers before hitting the open track. A lot of the same techniques will cross over into road racing. It's also nice because the costs of autocross are tremendously lower than road racing.

Brakes that work well for autoX may not be the best for road racing, so keep that in mind. Most autocross tracks are sub 90mph and you never really maintain speeds that will draw air through the rotors to cool them down. (Lower speeds means lower thermal energy too, so temps may not have a chance to cool, but they may only be so much.) Some pads geared toward autoX work well in a moderate temp widow but, go outside that window, and they're not very good. That's the case I found with the HPS pads from Hawk after hot-lapping and it was something I didn't notice with the StopTech pads I now run on my car every day. The HP Plus pads worked great for autoX.

The whole warning about cracked rotors is also just that...a warning. Very seldom does it lead to a failure unless the crack goes unnoticed or is ignored until it's too late. You may not even experience cracking until a few events. According to Brembo, if you can catch your nail in the crack, you should replace the rotor immediately. So just keep your eyes on the your rotors and stay safe.

- Kevin

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Yeah Autox is a great way to start out. You can bring a bone stock car and be competitive.. actually most of the time you will be more competitive with a car in stock or street prepared category! Many local clubs mix many SCCA classes together and you get the PAX index adjustment. For example I drove a WRX a few years ago and guys in Porches and Vettes would have to beat you by ~2 seconds to match you.

Autox braking you want something that works at normal cold temperatures as opposed to a track pad. Although HPS is definitely a good choice for autox. I've run them for years. Hell Sam Strano used them too on his LS1 with giant 315 Hoosiers and won championships with them. I think that tells you enough that the HPS pads are plenty good for autox!

Hot2000ss

ohhh niceee well that tells me alot guys thanks!!! apreciate the responses!! cant wait to get out on the track its gunna be such awesome experience

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I ran DTC70 front and HP+ on the rear with C6 front brakes, was a good setup.

I now use Carbotech Xp12 on front and Xp8 on the rear.

You need a pad that wont overheat on track, cooling ducts help a bunch.


When you overheat the pad past it's operating range it starts melting pad onto the rotor and you get vibration applying the brakes.

OutrunNAScaR14

iTrader: (4)

Performance friction all day

Amp'd Adam

Carbotech pads are what you want. I will be happy to set you up with the correct pad combination let me know.

Rodinator1234

In my experience track pads are noisy and dusty not generally fun to run every day. For example Hawk HP+ 's on my friends SRT8 Challanger sound like metal on metal at real slow speed like in the pits or going through the drive through. Most guys have two sets of pads for track days and non track days. On my 97 I have Hawk HPS's all the way around and run them every day. Real dusty pretty good for a autocross pad, acceptable on the track but next year I'll run the hp+ in the front and HPS in the rear. A F Body will lock the rear and hop with real aggressive pads even with good soft street tires doesn't have to be slicks. When you go to a track day listen to some of the fast cars creep through the pits the brakes sound horrible but they work for there intended pourpose.

bene

iTrader: (16)

This is what I'm running and what I ran at the Nurburgring... Hawk HP+s with front C6 BBK and HPSs at the rear. My car didn't lock up and held up pretty damn well from high speed braking. Day to day driving is fine as long as you don't get annoyed with slight squealing from stop and go driving and brake dust on your wheels. I have anthracite metallic colored wheels so the color hides the dust well.