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Bump! Great thread. Will this also work for a LT1? Also what is the compressor looking thing several of you guys have hooked up to the brake lines next to your proportioning valve.
Bump! Great thread. Will this also work for a LT1? Also what is the compressor looking thing several of you guys have hooked up to the brake lines next to your proportioning valve.
that is a line lock solenoid. pretty sure the lt1's are similar (didn't read through the whole thread) and it is easier if you dont have TCS. i'm working on deleting the ABS in my car and so far it's pretty straight forward, worst part is figuring out the different fitting sizes to match up to the factory lines. i am able to use all my factory brake lines so far too, no new lines needed
Thanks man. I deleted my abs years.... ago. Only thing I did was add a proportioning valve. Car has been a project ever since and starting over. Was just curious if I needed anything else besides the PV since it’s not a track car and just something to cruise around in but will have a mild blower build.
if you're "starting over" and the engine is out of the car it's super easy to bend up a few lines and add a tee fitting to delete the ABS. It's totally doable with the engine in the car too, just going to cuss a little more getting the flair tool into position, here's how it looks on my 95 that was originally 3ch. Needed less than 20 bucks in line and fittings. I've since gone manual brakes but that just required running two new lines. I kept and reused the fittings on the stock lines that came off the stock master when it still had the power set up.
Yes engine is gone waiting to find another one to build. Wow that’s a good deal and looks easy enough to do. I will have to clean up the lines under the hood as they have surface rust on them from sitting for 15 years. Need to drain the whole system.
No problem! If you're going all in, I'd look into getting a pre-bent set for under the car or a roll or two of Ni-Cop line, it's so easy to work with and flair, and wont rust.
Not positive what I will do exactly but thanks man and will check with autozone and see if they rent the flare tool. I saw one at harbor freight but for $20.00 but would never use it again so want to rent one.
So, I deleted my ABS a few years back on my '96 Tahoe.
Since that didn't fully get my brakes where I wanted them to be, I later switched to HydroBoost. That made a VERY big difference. Now my brakes are super powerful. Maybe more 'mechanical' feeling, but still WAY better than the vacuum boost.
But, since my ABS is gone, it sure seems like every other vehicle on the road has better brakes since they don't 'lock up' their tires. Especially in the rain.
Although, I sure do use the ability to lock up the tires for dramatic effect when somebody makes a bone-headed traffic maneuver!
But, if I could get my ABS working again, I would. I let my module go, but the wiring is still there and I want to try again with the module working.
I recommend you give additional consideration about driving in traffic with no ABS when the entire rest of the world has ABS and now you won't.
Yes I get your point but my camaro has been a garage queen since day one and rarely drive it and will continue that way. I’m also going to upgrade to the LS1 brake setup.
If I'm relying on ABS to stop me constantly I'm obviously doing something wrong, I have no air bags either but it's a risk I'm willing to take. Deleting ABS wont change how the brakes feel or operate, it just take the anti lock feature out, and in my cars case, a bunch of un-needed weight and clutter. On a Tahoe, I'd of never removed it, just gone straight to hydro-boost like you did. Shouldn't be too hard to find a truck in a wrecking yard and get the ABS block from one of them.
Brass is not good on brake lines, compression fittings are illegal and won't pass inspection if the shop knows. Better. If you have to use fittings napa sells steel ones
There is a difference between home depot compression fittings and swageloks. Im glad you can google an article. Mine never failed and I use them again in a heartbeat.
I wish I understood what everyone was talking about before i bought the SJM kit. Its a kit in need of a major over haul. Anyways just like everyone else im left with flares that dont work and thank goodness for this post.I ordered two of the swagelok fittings.
Anyways i still have close to 2 inches left on the shortest end. Will this be enough for the swagelok fittings to work? From what i see its plenty but i dont understand how the fittings work.
Thanks OP!
And SJM overhaul the kit! Make it very clear that this is a extremely difficult install with what is provided.
They need about that much to work. You should be fine. They are compression fittings with a ferrule. As you tighten the cap they compress the ferrule (sleeve) which then compresses the line. It deforms it honestly. Thats why it holds, its mechanically locked in. Its not a home depot compression fitting designed for your ice maker, these are legit.
They need about that much to work. You should be fine. They are compression fittings with a ferrule. As you tighten the cap they compress the ferrule (sleeve) which then compresses the line. It deforms it honestly. Thats why it holds, its mechanically locked in. Its not a home depot compression fitting designed for your ice maker, these are legit.
Awesome. Yeah a few guys i spoke to said they are the real deal. The ordering process is a little weird ill call them tomorrow and maybe just pick up.
I redid my lines and cut the braided off then used the swagelock Ts. Been racing and driving it for years now with no issues. Wanted to get on here and chime in because I just had someone tell me on fb it’s a big no no and that I’m an idiot for doing it.
09-25-2019, 07:47 PM
