Tubular Upper & Lower A- Arms, school me plz
11-30-2013, 11:23 PM
#3
I went with umi. They are a real quality piece and look great. I know they have an improved ball joint angle to help if your car is lowered also, not sure if others are like that.
12-01-2013, 08:55 AM
#4
UMI makes a road race version. I broke a set of brand name CrMo lightweight ones. As in the complete lower arm snapped off. I know of a few people that this happened too. I have the RRs now.
I do track the car and autocross with 315s on the front so it sees a lot more than normal side loads. If you are doing it for drag racing and plan to run skinnies all the time, go for the tublars, but check them weekly to ensure you do not have them let go and total your car. If for large front tires and street use, I suggest the road race or leave them stock.
I do track the car and autocross with 315s on the front so it sees a lot more than normal side loads. If you are doing it for drag racing and plan to run skinnies all the time, go for the tublars, but check them weekly to ensure you do not have them let go and total your car. If for large front tires and street use, I suggest the road race or leave them stock.
12-01-2013, 12:24 PM
#5
So you buy a set and think "I'm getting tubular suspension parts, it's gotta lose quite a bit of weight"
There are some real popular brands out there that are in fact just as heavy as the stock ones, and there is really no gains other than the adjustability if you purchased that type.
As RAMPANT said above... if you want to do hard corners you may as well leave the stockers on.
If you are a street/strip car then the Midwest Chassis arms will reduce a significant amount weight, work bind-free, and be worth the cost of the mod you are trying to accomplish.
12-03-2013, 11:34 AM
#6
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Weight aside, tubular pieces move like crazy. The vertical rear bushing in a stock arm tries to prohibit up/down movement. Add some lowers and the front end on your car lifts a lot more on acceleration. And, seeing those silly beefed up arms is ridiculous, remember only a few threads hold it on at the hiem joint anyway.
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12-04-2013, 11:24 AM
#10
What are you looking to do with the car? If you are looking to seriously road race the car, I would not suggest Poly bushings, but look into ones with Delrin. If you plan on daily driving the car, I would advise against "lightweight" parts, especially Chromoly parts. If you are drag racing the car, then lightweight adjustable arms with heim joints will be ideal.
The answer is, there is no one answer for everyone. It all comes down to how you will be using the car.
The answer is, there is no one answer for everyone. It all comes down to how you will be using the car.
12-04-2013, 04:42 PM
#11
Gets driven to work (3 miles) and gets driven on the highway over to Woodward (detroit area) and that pretty much it.
I might go to the local drag strip once just to see how bad I do, I would like to do a few autocross events.
seems it sits on jackstands mostly.
I might go to the local drag strip once just to see how bad I do, I would like to do a few autocross events.
seems it sits on jackstands mostly.
12-05-2013, 07:47 AM
#12
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The GW add more camber and caster for AX. The derlin bushing are more responsive but not harsher on ride quality. Stock front number for neg camber run -.5 to -1. With the GW I'am able to get -1 to -3. My car is currently -2.3 camber and rides like a dream imo. You will want to run -1.5 with some toe out (maybe 1/32) to help the car turn in.