Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

They are 2.5" coil-over springs. Available about anywhere, but I'm a Hypercoil Master Distributor and I can do them for less than most, and even less if you get them at the same time as the coil-overs. Order any front springs with a set of coil-overs and I'll do them for $59 each.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Sounds like Sam's the way to and it's one stop shopping if you're want to get some higher rate front springs also. BTW, excellent price on the Hypercoil springs Sam!

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

Are you willing to comment on whether there are circumstances when you would recommend a Ridetech setup over the usual Koni Yellow/Strano spring setup?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Sure, that would be if you want ride height adjustment but with better dampers than the typical drag stuff that were really the only way to get "coil-overs" at under the KW price point.

It's horses for courses. What is most critical for your needs and wants? My springs and Koni's flat work and that's proven time and again. But you can't adjust the height should you want that. KW's are more expensive, give you the height adjustment and independent double adjustable dampers. Not everyone wants that, or wants to pay for that.

I'd recommend the Stage 2 Ridetech as a similar option to Koni/Strano springs. You give up some spring rate and some proven setup for the ride height. But I don't take this stuff lightly, remember I tell folks a lot that if they want ride height adjustment badly, pony up and don't run junk dampers. These are better than what's been around at the price point before.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

Thank you for your response. I have Koni yellows, your springs, sway bars and offset bushings. It really transforms the car.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

If you are happy with what you have (and I'm glad you are), then I'd not recommend changing unless you have a specific reason to do so.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

Well, I wanted to lower the rear a little bit after the new axle raised it up an inch or so, and go a little stiffer to compensate for the lower roll center after installing a watts link. I think new rear springs is a little cheaper than a new set up, though.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Do you have an adjustable rear bar? You can get the rear roll stiffness up that way too.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

I don't. I have your original bars (I think I recall reading the newer ones are adjustable). I would like the car to feel as planted in the rear as possible. Car just feels so loose compared to the 5th Gen and GTO I've driven.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Have you tried more rebound, particularly in the rear?

That's kind of trick with the Watts link. Most of the time folks don't love a lot of rear rebound unless they have a lot of weight to pin the rear down more because it makes the car more skippy.

Well a lot of that is the function of the PHB. A watts settles that skip a ton, more than you can imagine, which often allows you to run more rebound damping and get the more 'tied-down' feel from it.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Lowering the rear roll center more will give the rear more grip, however it will change the balance of the car. As you increase rear grip, the front will want to understeer. Not necessarily a bad thing, because its a super easy adjustment you can use to tune on the fly. When I first started doing track events with the watts link, I intentionally lowered the roll center to make the car more prone to understeer, which allows more confidence since you aren't trying to keep the rear of the car in line while powering through the corner.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

I'm going to try that. Thanks for the tip. That tied-down feeling is what I'm after. I always just figured it was from a lack of camber from the solid rear axle.


Yeah, I think the car is so oversteer prone, more understeer will only balance it out at this point.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

While it has no camber to speak of, it also does not lose any camber to roll. But that's a whole different kettle of fish.