JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

All:

My car has 145k miles on it, and the steering is a bit spooky. I believe I'm going with the Koni/Strano package and Strano Sways, but I will probably go ahead and rebuild the front end if needed (I'll double-check everything, and anything that needs replacing, I'll replace).

Here is the parts list I have down if needed:

Moog K6462 Upper Ball Joints x 2
Moog K6145T Lower Ball Joints x 2
Moog K6689 Front Upper Control Arm Bushings x 2
Moog K6490 Front Lower Control Arm Bushings x 2
Moog ES3238RL Tie Rod Ends x 2

And to be used with the Koni struts:
Moog K6516 & K6517 Front Strut Mounts
Moog K6573 Front Coil Spring Isolators x 2
Moog K80927 Front Lower Spring Pads x 2

Is there anything else I should consider for the front end? I have the stock steering for now and 275/40-17s in the front and 315/35-17 drag radials in the rear.

I will definitely get an alignment done and get the toe set either at zero or slightly in to get rid of the wandering that the car has.

Thanks

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

How's the steering rack and inner tie rods?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Steering rack looked okay when I was putting the headers in. Inner Tie Rods I'd have to look at.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I'm actually in the process of putting Konis in. You might as well replace the sway bar endlinks. Moog takes a normal and heavy duty version as well. I'm not exactly sure if there are any performance differences between the heavy duty version vs poly (Energy or Prothane) but lots of people seem to like the Moog version. I'm picking up the heavy duty version from Advance tomorrow.

Also a heads up, Advance Auto has a 30% coupon for online orders (code: TRT30). Just order online, choose a store, and go pick it up. Hitup rockauto.com for the cheapest prices on the strut mounts, isolators, and spring pads.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I would do inner tie rods and tie rod ends regardless the condition, if your gonna go thru the trouble to replace other parts and get an alignment done at that kind of mileage go all the way.

also wouldn't hurt to look at the control arm bushings.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

That's what I'm thinking... just go ahead and do it. I don't think I'm replacing my rack or A-arms anytime soon, so this would be the way to go.

And that's a good coupon code for Advance. Thanks. I was looking at Rock Auto... they are the cheapest I've found for Moog, even with shipping.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Another vote to replace the endlinks while you're at it!

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I plan to run the Strano sways... they come with new endlinks, so I'll be good there.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Okay, so I've finally ordered the Konis/BMR springs, since the price was too good.

The Moog parts I need for the front strut setup is:

Moog K6516 & K6517 Front Strut Mounts
Moog K6573 Front Coil Spring Isolators x 2
Moog K80927 Front Lower Spring Pads x 2

Are those absolutely needed? If so, I'll go ahead and order as well.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Forget Moog for the front shock mounts/dogbones, compare the OEM to theirs and you will see why I went with OEM, Moog's are smaller.

You don't likely need the bottom spring isolators if yours are in good shape as mine were.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I ordered them as they weren't too expensive. If the stock stuff looks good, I'll just reuse. I figure the top mounts will be seized up...

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

For instance Moog dogbones do not fit OEM mounts -- they are significantly smaller. Already went down that path...

brigade24

camber and caster bushings? I mean while you're in there...

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Did the Moog K6462 upper ball joints use a better rubber boot design than stock? My stock seal is torn to hell by the mounting bolts for my Global West upper control arms. Would the K6462's design give an extended life?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I didn't do the Moog ball joints. I just decided to wait and get some tubular A-Arms with new ball joints installed already.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

as a general rule, ball joint boots are going to get torn at some point, doesn't matter how they are made, you hit it a fork to separate it and your likely to tear it, the good thing about the Moog ball joints is they are greasable so you can add more grease as needed to extend the life of the joint past the boot tearing.

I'm dropping my car off at the mechanic tonight so they can start installing all my parts in the morning, I did all the parts here except I went with the Monroe lower mount/insulator (that fits on the shock that the spring then sits on) to save a couple bucks and it fit just fine.