MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

I am in the process of putting together a complete 98-02 front brake setup for my '95 car. I have had the spindles and brackets powdercoated, stripped/cleaned/painted brakes, stainless brake lines, hawksHP/ws6store rotor combo all picked/bought. It wouldn't feel right to bolt up the 100k mile rusty stocker hubs, so I'm looking at options.

On Rockauto they offer 7 different hubs.

VALUE PRO Part # 513090 $47
PRO Part # 29513090 $48
RAYBESTOS Part # 713090 $84
TIMKEN Part # 513090 $114
MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513090 $118
SKF Part # BR930186 $158
ACDELCO Part # 2086 $223


I've been leaning towards Timken because of good reports/reviews on here and it seems to be towards the middle of the line in pricing. My question is, what makes these hubs differ so greatly in price? Is the AC Delco really going to be 5 times better than the Value Pro?

I'm not afraid to spend the money if the parts are truly that much better, but I don't want to spend more than is necessary at the same time if there is no real benefit.

Anybody know about these things?

Thanks in advance

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

check rock auto to see what ones have a good warranty on them just in case. I havent had good luck with timken on my wifes impala . i put a timken front on and within a week was having abs issues with the sensor .

So now i just use cheap ones off ebay .

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

SKF is pretty much the industry leader for bearings and not just automobile. They make top of the line wheel bearings and is for many companies the OEM manufacturer (though they may not be making many bearings in the US). For me if I had the extra change I would go with SKF for sure, if not it would be Timken. The Autox guys and RRers seem to like the Timken bearings for their good warranty + they are still made in the US. You could do the Ebay route but I've heard of more problems with them after only a few weeks time then the Timkens. I definitely wouldn't want to be skimping on wheel bearings!

camarokid91

SFK > Moog > Timken seems to be the way hub go for quality. F bodies seem to munch hubs if you are auto crossing and road racing as stated. I have some timkens on my car that will probably not make it through this summer but I am running R comps so its to be expected.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

I haven't had luck with timkens, but I autocross and do some open track events. I end up replacing them every 4 or 5 events in the summer. I'm trying the moog bearings now, they have the same warranty as timken and are available at autozone. I'm doing a little experiment by trying a fresh timken on one side, moog on the other and see what lasts longer.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Some great first hand info and testimonial guys! So much nicer than regurgitated info from other sources. I couldn't seem to find any info like this anywhere online pertaining to 4th gens.

My car isn't an autocross car by any means though I do drive it spiritedly on the street (just 275 nitto 555's up front). It's more intended as a street/strip car if anything so I think the timkens will suffice.

Also, I read somewhere that the torque specs for the hub bolts is something like 63 ft lbs, is that correct?

Keep the info coming guys.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Also, Moog can be gotten from Advance Auto and using promo codes (code is TRT41) on there website (and doing 2 separate orders) will bring the Moog price down to the Raybestos price and if you need replacing you can do it at your local Advance.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

I replaced my stock ones with Timken wheel hubs. My car is a DD though and theyve held up great so far.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

^^^ That's what I did. Don't have to pay for shipping either. I've had the Moog's on for about 6 months now with no problems.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

If you don't do track days (road course) or autocross, the timkens should last a very long time. Its not that they aren't a quality replacement part, its just the factory design that doesn't like cornering abuse.

camarokid91

Yeah it should be stated if you don't race any hub will be fine. Taking corners on the street fast is nothing compared to a car going over a G corner to corner for minutes at a time.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Hmm I said Timken instead of Moog simply because I just haven't heard of as many people using them compared to Timkens, but it seems like I've read of more and more people trying out the Moogs lately.

RJDio

following

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Just looked on rock auto, they have the same part # for the Moog/national and the Timken... I wouldn't be surprised if they are made by the same company. Maybe someone with both hubs can compare? I did notice that the Moog seemed to have a better warranty on rock auto. (limited lifetime vs. 1 year IIRC)

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

The pictures I've seen of moog hubs, they are machined differently than the timkens. The body of the hub that houses the bearing is what looks different.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Just recently replaced a failed stock hub with the Timken. 3-year warranty from Auto Zone. Since I typically do a few track days a year I would be surprised if it makes it 3 years, so the warranty could prove to be a nice benefit.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Different car, but we just got a new timken hub+wheel bearing for my dads 03 silverado. Looks nice and says made in USA =)

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

FASTFATBOY, here and on FRRAX, has recently had better results with the Moog's during road racing. If you have an open wallet, try out the Hoosier PE bearings. Once my Timken warranty runs out I'll try the Moogs.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=16739

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

I like that the Timkens are made in the USA. Since I wont be doing any autocross or the such, it is likely what I will go with just due to the decent warranty and nice finish.

Has anybody tried out the cheapo ones? Like valuepro or propart or even Raybestos?

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Just get something brand name. such as Moog/National, SKF or Timken. And yes, the Delco one is 5 times better, but it's just one of the above rebranded. Stay away from the cheapo Chinesium stuff, in bearings they are almost certain to fail prematurely.