how to cut springs?
02-28-2014, 05:27 PM
#22
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So would you recommend cutting half a coil on the rear instead of the hose?
02-28-2014, 07:11 PM
#23
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The factory upper spring isolator will be removed and not reused with the "Hose Mod".
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.
03-01-2014, 08:57 AM
#25
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Do a search for " muffler cut off tool " It will cut through a spring in about 20 seconds with minimal heat destruction. Don't forget to paint the cut end of the spring to prevent rust. Edit: check harbor freight ~$20
03-01-2014, 09:09 AM
#26
i did this to my last car, an LS swapped 91 Bird, i cut one whole coil off with an air operated cut off wheel and then wrapped 2 layers of electrical tape around the top coil and installed with no rubber isolator. Got 3.5" of drop and ran it with bilstein HD's, car was on rails and was not overly harsh at all believe it or not. I miss the way that car handled.
03-01-2014, 12:30 PM
#27
I used a sawzall to cut mine. With a fresh blade it takes just seconds.
03-01-2014, 05:47 PM
#28
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Thats what I wish I would have done. Heater hose mod seems harsh when it compresses. The isolator gives the spring something to push into. IMO it takes just as much time as the heater hose mod and its the correct way to be a cheap ***. lol
I used a sawzall to cut mine. With a fresh blade it takes just seconds.
I used a sawzall to cut mine. With a fresh blade it takes just seconds.
03-01-2014, 11:18 PM
#29
Well Hell I just did the heater hose. Had to use 5/8 1" hose. Havent lowered it yet as I'm doing the panhard. But those springs! Mine did NOT fall right out. I undid the shock, let the rear hang and had to put a spring compressor on the spring just to get it out and in even afyer the hose mod.
03-02-2014, 12:14 AM
#30
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Nice Ill try that for the driver side
03-03-2014, 01:31 PM
#31
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nothing wrong with cutting springs but founders performance has Vogtland springs for $168 + shipping 1.2 inch drop all the way around and i have heard they do great
03-03-2014, 03:27 PM
#32
Loosen the end-links until the nuts are only on by a couple of threads, or remove them. This will allow move movement of the rear-end. FYI, yes I have done the Hose Mod, my recommendation are from my experience from doing it. You possibly could use a smaller 1/2"ID hose than a 5/8"ID, but it might be a pain to install beyond the first 6". The reason I used 5/8" was for ease of installation without using any lubricant that could cause the Hose to break down prematurely.
03-12-2014, 10:06 AM
#33
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I will say this, I hope I never have to remove the fronts again. I don't know if it was the spring compressor I rented or what but it was a pain to tighten the springs enough to get some slack to take the nut off. Then putting them back on, I forgot to put that shock sleeve bump stop inside of the spring before I compressed it until I realized it wouldnt go in after it was compressed because of the clamps. Then I compressed it again using 3 coils and it was all the way compressed and still not enough to get the shock nut back on. PITA to compress and decompress by hand.
03-12-2014, 10:09 AM
#34
I will say this, I hope I never have to remove the fronts again. I don't know if it was the spring compressor I rented or what but it was a pain to tighten the springs enough to get some slack to take the nut off. Then putting them back on, I forgot to put that shock sleeve bump stop inside of the spring before I compressed it until I realized it wouldnt go in after it was compressed because of the clamps. Then I compressed it again using 3 coils and it was all the way compressed and still not enough to get the shock nut back on. PITA to compress and decompress by hand.
03-13-2014, 09:54 PM
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Bloody fingers, knuckles, fatigued arms are all part of the experience right? I had the kind with a hook and weak *** safety pins loaned from oriellys, hard as hell to compress. i tried my impact gun to decompress one of the times but it shifted the compressors so I got worried and did it by hand. Threw the new rotors on painted the calipers, new end links. I cut 3/4 inch off the coils, I think about 10.5 inches. now it sits 1 1/4 passenger side 1 3/4 drivers. I'm %80 happy wish the drivers side was lower but I'm not pulling those out again for another 2 inch cut on the drivers side. I'm debating pulling the rears that already have the heater hose mod and cutting a few inches from em. I like where the pass side sits just not the drivers side. I may live with it. Here's where I stand now:
Pass side where I want it
Front end, just a reflection on the hood
Drivers side still a little high
