how to cut springs?
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Before it turns into a debate of save up for lowering springs, and cutting is fine. I've heard and read different stories on both. Consider me a person that has to learn the hard way. Here Is my deal.
I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 98 z28 and figured while I'm in there id paint the calipers black and cut the springs. (If its that bad I'll pop for lowering springs). All I'm looking for is about a 1" drop. I have an adjustable panhard bar that I need to install as well. As It stands now the rear pass side sits lower than the drivers side and i think the pass rear side is tucked into the wheel well a little more than drivers side. Here's my questions:
What tool should I use to cut the springs and How much. Like I said a 3/4-1.25" drop is all I'm looking for. Should I use a jig saw or dremel with a cutoff wheel?
How do I adjust the panhard to center the rear?
I read about putting heater hose sheathed around the rear spring but how does that lower it?
I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 98 z28 and figured while I'm in there id paint the calipers black and cut the springs. (If its that bad I'll pop for lowering springs). All I'm looking for is about a 1" drop. I have an adjustable panhard bar that I need to install as well. As It stands now the rear pass side sits lower than the drivers side and i think the pass rear side is tucked into the wheel well a little more than drivers side. Here's my questions:
What tool should I use to cut the springs and How much. Like I said a 3/4-1.25" drop is all I'm looking for. Should I use a jig saw or dremel with a cutoff wheel?
How do I adjust the panhard to center the rear?
I read about putting heater hose sheathed around the rear spring but how does that lower it?
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Thanks, ya I read that touching them weakens the metal through heat, but i don't have access to a torch regardless. I'm just wondering if a jig saw or dremel will do the job. Thinking about taking half a coil, maybe 3/4
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I'm pretty sure the rears cut from top and fronts from bottom. Basically non tapered side. I'm just wondering about the dremel cutoff wheel because those things burn up quick.
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I'd like to do it at home preferably.
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Before it turns into a debate of save up for lowering springs, and cutting is fine. I've heard and read different stories on both. Consider me a person that has to learn the hard way. Here Is my deal.
I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 98 z28 and figured while I'm in there id paint the calipers black and cut the springs. (If its that bad I'll pop for lowering springs). All I'm looking for is about a 1" drop. I have an adjustable panhard bar that I need to install as well. As It stands now the rear pass side sits lower than the drivers side and i think the pass rear side is tucked into the wheel well a little more than drivers side. Here's my questions:
What tool should I use to cut the springs and How much. Like I said a 3/4-1.25" drop is all I'm looking for. Should I use a jig saw or dremel with a cutoff wheel?
How do I adjust the panhard to center the rear?
I read about putting heater hose sheathed around the rear spring but how does that lower it?
I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 98 z28 and figured while I'm in there id paint the calipers black and cut the springs. (If its that bad I'll pop for lowering springs). All I'm looking for is about a 1" drop. I have an adjustable panhard bar that I need to install as well. As It stands now the rear pass side sits lower than the drivers side and i think the pass rear side is tucked into the wheel well a little more than drivers side. Here's my questions:
What tool should I use to cut the springs and How much. Like I said a 3/4-1.25" drop is all I'm looking for. Should I use a jig saw or dremel with a cutoff wheel?
How do I adjust the panhard to center the rear?
I read about putting heater hose sheathed around the rear spring but how does that lower it?
As for you cutting did you consider the Heater Hose mod? works good for the rear. the front would be cutting a coil.
I would see at least 1.50 if you remove a coil from the stock springs. the ride would be really bad too. good luck man ! As for cutting, I used a cut off wheel on my Monte Carlo SS to cut them, took about two to three
wheel for all four springs
Last edited by TransAmTimmy; 02-27-2014 at 11:05 PM. Reason: un finished
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I use one 4inch cut off wheel for two spring a while back on my Monte Carlo, I think the dremel disc would take too many, IMO.
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I'd only use the dremel to get the cut started, they take to long, and even if you have several packets of the reinforced cut-off wheels, there's still the chance you'll burn up your dremel with it's small motor. I've cut coils faster with a good hack-saw and some new blades, than with a dremel. Regardless DON'T use a torch!
Preferably, You'll want to use a air powered die-grinder with a 4" reinforced cut-off wheel, or a electric die-grinder.
Furthermore, in the rear I would only do the hose mod, since the factory spring don't have any dead coils.
Preferably, You'll want to use a air powered die-grinder with a 4" reinforced cut-off wheel, or a electric die-grinder.
Furthermore, in the rear I would only do the hose mod, since the factory spring don't have any dead coils.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 02-28-2014 at 12:18 AM.
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From what I've read hopefully about an inch?
Thanks for all the responses! I guess I'll go get a grinder with a cutoff wheel to make my day easier. I'm still not sure how the heater hose mod works? I understand that you basically wrap the spring in heater hose and put it back in, but how does that lower the car?
Ok so i'm in the same boat, some what as you...I got a set of SLP Bilsteins and SLP springs. The rear Springs came cut with one coil removed. So I installed and they got about 1'' drop. but my fronts are not cut so im literally stuck and unsure as what to do.
As for you cutting did you consider the Heater Hose mod? works good for the rear. the front would be cutting a coil.
I would see at least 1.50 if you remove a coil from the stock springs. the ride would be really bad too. good luck man ! As for cutting, I used a cut off wheel on my Monte Carlo SS to cut them, took about two to three
wheel for all four springs
As for you cutting did you consider the Heater Hose mod? works good for the rear. the front would be cutting a coil.
I would see at least 1.50 if you remove a coil from the stock springs. the ride would be really bad too. good luck man ! As for cutting, I used a cut off wheel on my Monte Carlo SS to cut them, took about two to three
wheel for all four springs
I'd only use the dremel to get the cut started, they take to long, and even if you have several packets of the reinforced cut-off wheels, there's still the chance you'll burn up your dremel with it's small motor. I've cut coils faster with a good hack-saw and some new blades, than with a dremel. Regardless DON'T use a torch!
Preferably, You'll want to use a air powered die-grinder with a 4" reinforced cut-off wheel, or a electric die-grinder.
Furthermore, in the rear I would only do the hose mod, since the factory spring don't have any dead coils.
Preferably, You'll want to use a air powered die-grinder with a 4" reinforced cut-off wheel, or a electric die-grinder.
Furthermore, in the rear I would only do the hose mod, since the factory spring don't have any dead coils.
#17
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The heater hose replaces the upper rubber isolator (which is about 1" thick). So you wrap the top coil or so with the heater hose.
Personally I didn't like how that didn't allow the spring to sit flat anymore. It was probably fine seeing as the previous owner drag raced the car without issue but I didn't care for it.
Personally I didn't like how that didn't allow the spring to sit flat anymore. It was probably fine seeing as the previous owner drag raced the car without issue but I didn't care for it.
#19
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The factory upper spring isolator will be removed and not reused with the "Hose Mod".
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.
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The factory upper spring isolator will be removed and not reused with the "Hose Mod".
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.
For the "Hose Mod", you'll need right about 18" of 5/8" ID oil/fuel line hose for each rear spring, so 36"(3ft.) total. What you do is slide the hose over the end (up top) of the spring, until you have covered about 1 full coil with 1"-1.5" of hose hanging past the end of the spring. Cut off any excess hose beyond the 1-1.5" overhang, then reinstall spring without the factory gm upper spring isolator.