pinion angle... ive read everywhere and no help
#1
pinion angle... ive read everywhere and no help
Car has a moser 12 bolt with 3.73s has a race style arb and all heim joint suspension. Was told to set it to -6 and it just seems lazy out the hole. Everything is adjustable so point me in some direction guys
#2
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Whoever told you -6, do not ever let them help you work on your car.
We normally recommend around a -2* angle on a rubber/poly bushing setup. If it is all rod ends, then -1 or 0* is good. Although, pinion angle will not affect suspension reaction much. It mostly only affects driveline vibration and u-joint stress. How are you measuring your pinion angle? Refer to this diagram to make sure you are properly measuring it
We normally recommend around a -2* angle on a rubber/poly bushing setup. If it is all rod ends, then -1 or 0* is good. Although, pinion angle will not affect suspension reaction much. It mostly only affects driveline vibration and u-joint stress. How are you measuring your pinion angle? Refer to this diagram to make sure you are properly measuring it
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Whoever told you -6, do not ever let them help you work on your car.
We normally recommend around a -2* angle on a rubber/poly bushing setup. If it is all rod ends, then -1 or 0* is good. Although, pinion angle will not affect suspension reaction much. It mostly only affects driveline vibration and u-joint stress. How are you measuring your pinion angle? Refer to this diagram to make sure you are properly measuring it
We normally recommend around a -2* angle on a rubber/poly bushing setup. If it is all rod ends, then -1 or 0* is good. Although, pinion angle will not affect suspension reaction much. It mostly only affects driveline vibration and u-joint stress. How are you measuring your pinion angle? Refer to this diagram to make sure you are properly measuring it
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Correct. There should be 2 degrees of separation between the angles when measure from the same side. For ease of reading the angle, if you have a smartphone you can download an app called "Clinometer". It uses the flat edges of your phone as an angle finder and displays it in an easy to read format.
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I bought a digital anglefinder from amazon for ~$20. Worth every penny, way better than those analog ones lol. its got a huge magnet and it fits right below the output shaft of the transmission
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Where are you measuring your driveline angle from? There are not many accurate surfaces to measure from on the transmission itself. The measurement should really be taken from the output shaft yoke or the balancer/crank pulley. My personal preference is actually to remove the driveshaft and measure the pinion yoke across the u-joint cap mounting surfaces. Then measuring the crank pulley. This seems to be the most accurate.You can do it with the driveshaft in the car but you have to make sure you are measuring the pinion yoke correctly without the shaft/u-joint interfering.
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Where are you measuring your driveline angle from? There are not many accurate surfaces to measure from on the transmission itself. The measurement should really be taken from the output shaft yoke or the balancer/crank pulley. My personal preference is actually to remove the driveshaft and measure the pinion yoke across the u-joint cap mounting surfaces. Then measuring the crank pulley. This seems to be the most accurate.You can do it with the driveshaft in the car but you have to make sure you are measuring the pinion yoke correctly without the shaft/u-joint interfering.
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I had bad vibes at approx 90mph. I got around to measuring mine. First with the car on a level slab, I verified my subframe connectors were 0. They were. Then I backed on ramps and figured out the trans was at a 3° less angle then the subframes, actual numbers don't matter because the subframes are the new theoretical ground. So, my trans was pointing down. I checked my rear end and it was nose down. So I adjusted my torque arm to get my rear end nose up and matched the angle of my trans at about 1 less degree. Bam, vibes went away. If you find a theoretical level before lifting the car then you know where you stand once you get in ramps. As for measuring points, you want to measure on the u joint caps that are flat and on the flange side of things. Meaning as you roll the driveshaft, two caps will angle up/down as the shafts spin, the other two stay true with the trans or rear end. Also, use a socket of the appropriate size to get in in the cap and get an accurate measurement. Fitting a straight angle gauge on a cap is near impossible.
#12
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Honestly, angle of the vehicle to level ground is irrelevant. You can set correct pinion angle with the car sitting on a hill. All angle finders reference to the ground as being "0" so technically when you measure you are referencing the pinion angle to the ground. HOWEVER, this is only to get a number to use as comparison. Even with the car sitting on a hill, if you measured your driveline at 33* in relation to true vertical, you would just adjust the pinion to read 31*. Thus leaving a 2 degree difference. It just makes the angles a little smaller and easier to manage.
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I had bad vibes at approx 90mph. I got around to measuring mine. First with the car on a level slab, I verified my subframe connectors were 0. They were. Then I backed on ramps and figured out the trans was at a 3° less angle then the subframes, actual numbers don't matter because the subframes are the new theoretical ground. So, my trans was pointing down. I checked my rear end and it was nose down. So I adjusted my torque arm to get my rear end nose up and matched the angle of my trans at about 1 less degree. Bam, vibes went away. If you find a theoretical level before lifting the car then you know where you stand once you get in ramps. As for measuring points, you want to measure on the u joint caps that are flat and on the flange side of things. Meaning as you roll the driveshaft, two caps will angle up/down as the shafts spin, the other two stay true with the trans or rear end. Also, use a socket of the appropriate size to get in in the cap and get an accurate measurement. Fitting a straight angle gauge on a cap is near impossible.
#14
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This is not a good place to measure from. This is a cast aluminum piece, so all of the outer surfaces are inconsistent and have angles made in to help with mold removal. You need to be measuring from a machined surface such as the yoke, tailshaft itself, or the crank pulley. You may see 2-3* of variation just in measuring from a cast outer surface which can cause vibration, even if the comparative angle is measuring 2*
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Great info. Can I do this in my driveway with the weight on the wheels? I don't feel like driving to my uncles just to use his alignment rack which takes some ramps for me to get onto lol
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Honestly, angle of the vehicle to level ground is irrelevant. You can set correct pinion angle with the car sitting on a hill. All angle finders reference to the ground as being "0" so technically when you measure you are referencing the pinion angle to the ground. HOWEVER, this is only to get a number to use as comparison. Even with the car sitting on a hill, if you measured your driveline at 33* in relation to true vertical, you would just adjust the pinion to read 31*. Thus leaving a 2 degree difference. It just makes the angles a little smaller and easier to manage.