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Honestly I've never hated nor loved Carbotech. Never have I driven a car with them that made me go *wow* or those are terrible (unless they were using an insane compound for what they were doing which can happen with anyone).
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Depended on what I was doing with the car. Track stuff I was on various Hawk race compounds in front. For street and Autocross I was typically on HPS's, but not long before I sold it I had moved to DTC-30 fronts.
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I just wore out a set of Carbotech xp-16s. Back story... 71 Camaro, TT LS2, 700rwhp+ (mustang Dyno) manual brakes, Wilwood 14" / 6 piston calipers. Drilled rotors look nice but that's about it. Yes, they crack. Rear brakes are also Wilwood 12.88" rotors, 4 piston calipers. Went to great effort to reduce pad knock back by machining my own spacer for between my axles. (I run tru-track posi) which is better, but mot perfect. Next attempt will be c-clip elimination. (replace axle housing ends with ford 9" ends and swap out axles).
My brakes lasted for 4500 miles. A lot of those miles were time attack, track day, and auto-cross. Loved the stopping performance of the pads, hated the dust. Filthy, filthy, filthy. The car stopped so hard that the passenger side hub cap unscrewed itself purely from inertia. Lost one, taped the replacement, and it tried to leave too!
Currently have a new set of non-drilled rotors in transit amd am searching for new pads. May try the XP-12s for the street, and swap to the 16's for the track.
Some pics...
And a demo of throttle off oversteer.....
Last edited by Marktainium; 10-14-2014 at 09:35 PM.
Any race pad with that kind of stopping power will create a ton of dust. Actually, most other race pads are a lot worse in that regard. Carbotech's dust is much more manageable than other brands, due to being ceramic. It cleans up much easier than most, and it's 100% non-corrosive. I have brake dust sitting on my wheels from the last track day I did a month ago, and you can wipe it clean off with your finger tip.
I would try the xp10 on the street. They don't need much, if any temp to work and still have great stopping power. Easier on rotors too. Ditto on those drilled rotors. My wilwood kit came with the same ones and I had one almost explode on me from cracking. Put on some solid ones and it just loves the abuse now.
My wife and I share a Spec. Miata that we club race and have always used carbotechs on it. XP10s front and XP8's rear. Work great. Just ordered XP10's for the front and rear. I'll report back once I get a chance to thrash on them!
Note the pads, that's heat that's caused that white color on the backing plate. I mention this for a simple reason. Folks want pads that 'can do it all' all the time. There are a few pads that are decent compromises, but nothing that can in fact do track and street both spot on perfectly. See also the pic below for another example of how hot brakes get, look inside the front wheels:
The pic of the cracked rotor is a very graphic representation of just why I do not do drilled rotors on serious cars. That crack is super common on drilled rotors.
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
The Wilwood brakes for the F-Body are very interesting to me... 140-9833/9830 for all four wheels. The issue is I went with BS Street Lites and they barely clear the stock brakes.
Sam, do you happen to know if they are much thicker than the stock PBR 2-Piston caliper? I know if I were running my stock Speedline WS6 wheels, they'd clear. There was a lot of space there. But the BS are essentially flat spoked to create a big lip.
The Wilwood kit looks very nice even with the narrow caliper. The BP-10 is a solid pad for street duty.
140-9833 specs, looks like the caliper sticks out .75" from the face of the rotor hat. You need that much space from your wheel mounting pad to the spokes to clear, + .080" additional as per the note at the bottom.
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Sam is right about a pad that will do it all. The claimed dual purpose pads are always a compromise. Some track pads can be manageable on the street to get you to and from the track.
I don't think the wilwood calipers would clear your wheels, jake. Like you said the spokes are very flat. I would measure though, because the 2 piece rotors have a much deeper offset than an f-body or Vette rotor. Just a note, I HATED the BP-10 pads on the street, absolutely no stopping power. Changed the pads and it was an animal.
Sam is right about a pad that will do it all. The claimed dual purpose pads are always a compromise. Some track pads can be manageable on the street to get you to and from the track.
I don't think the wilwood calipers would clear your wheels, jake. Like you said the spokes are very flat. I would measure though, because the 2 piece rotors have a much deeper offset than an f-body or Vette rotor. Just a note, I HATED the BP-10 pads on the street, absolutely no stopping power. Changed the pads and it was an animal.
X 2 on the BP10's .... might as well have chunks of wood instead of brake pads in there.
If you have a squeaky pad, put it off and put some anti seize wherever the pad backing plate touches anything and it will stop. I use high temp copper anti seize. If you do a track day it will melt off and you will have to reapply it.
I am going to try the Wilwood "H" pad with Hawk HP+ on the rear in mid Nov. Will let you know how it does.
I have the Wilwood kit#140-7190 with a 13.06 rotor ring.
140-9833 specs, looks like the caliper sticks out .75" from the face of the rotor hat. You need that much space from your wheel mounting pad to the spokes to clear, + .080" additional as per the note at the bottom.
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Wilwood H on front and Hawk HP+ on the rear was outstanding this past weekend.
Front pads minimal dust, rears...a LOT of dust.
Car has good brakes now on track.
Glad you have something you like. Please remember that I carry most all these brands, including Wilwood. Even if you don't see them on the site, please ask.
I spend a lot of time (and some money) being a sponsor, and I have those products. I'm not just suspension parts. I have lots of things.
thanks!
__________________ www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450 Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
10-14-2014, 01:51 PM
