Tripledigitride

I am getting ready to order some lower springs and shocks and I was wondering if I had/need to add LCA relocation brackets and adjustable LCAs and an adjustable panhard bar or not? The car is an '02 Z28 M6 with 4.10's. It is mostly a weekend cruiser but is taken to the track 1-2 times a year. I will be going with strano lower springs and Koni STR.T shocks. One other thing is a strut tower brace worth the money? If so I can just add it while I am changing the shocks and springs.

Any and all help is appreciated.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Depending on the amount of drop you are aiming for, an adjustable panhard bar may be wise. Strano springs don't slam the car, generally a little over an inch. Some people get away with the factory bar, but with wide wheels and tires you're likely going to rub as the suspension travels. Or if you're really **** about appearance, the wheel being closer to the quarter panel on one side will bother you every time you look at the car!

The relocation brackets are also a good idea to change, but again you can get away without it if it's a basic street car. If you're taking it to the track, as in drag racing, I definitely recommend getting the relocation brackets. It will not only help correct the loss of geometry, but help plant the tires off the line.

The strut tower brace is strongly debated around here. I think it's strongly subjective, really depends on the driver. It definitely helps the true strut cars, like a 3rd gen F-body. I noticed a little more steering stability when I added mine, and if nothing else it looks cool in the engine bay!

Hope that answers some questions!

srs bzns

iTrader: (3)

do you need adjustable LCAs if you purchase the relocation brackets or are aftermarket non adjustable lcas fine?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

No. Adjustable LCA's are usually only recommended if you are lowering the car 2" or more, running a 28" or larger diameter tire, or swapping to an aftermarket rear end.

Like UMI said, an adjustable panhard and relocation brackets are definitely recommended, but it's not like you will not be able to drive the car without them. Usually the biggest issue we hear of when lowering an otherwise stock car is highway speed vibrations from pinion angle changes that occur when lowering. This is corrected with an adjustable torque arm.

srs bzns

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to be running vogtlands on Konis with 19x12 and 325/30/19 in the rear. Suspension geometry has always been something that I focus quite a bit on with my builds so I planned on car adjustable phb, non-adjustable lcas, lca bolt on relocation brackets, aftermarket sways with adjustable end links for the rear. Handling is more important to me, but I like to be able to fiddle with things to a certain extent to get them the way I like. I however do not want rod ends or spherical bushings. Been there, done that, never again on a enjoyment street car

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Like Eric said, there is no need for adjustable arm for your situation. Your plan for the rear sounds legit. Let me know if I can help!

srs bzns

iTrader: (3)

UMI and or founders are what I have been looking at for the pieces.

I have been finalizing my layout and there are still a few things i haven't decided on yet

UMI Tech

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If you have any questions let us know.

-- Ramey

Tripledigitride

Thanks for the replies.. So just to be clear I should be fine with relocation brackets, non adjustable LCA's and an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear? If that the case I can get the strut tower brace with what I save getting non adjustable LCA's..lol

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

You are correct, you will be absolutely fine with those parts.

JD_AMG

Stay away from poly bushings in the control arms if you value handling.

SteveC

The most important thing here is to install an adjustable torque arm so that you can reset your pinion angle.