Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

I am at the piont were I know I have to adress the issue of tracktion. This weekend I went to the track to see how my car runs. To make a long story short, I took out the 330' sensor between the lanes. I had never had that problem before and had nevver changed lanes before. So now I am needing to fix my traction problems before I go any farther.

Let me lay down my guidlines of what I want.

First off, I do not want to do anything that will hurt the cars ability to be road worthy. I drive this car every day and I want to be able to go on long trips and still corner as good as it does stock. I am not conserned with a soft ride or a ruff ride so a stiff ride is not a problem with me.

Second, I am not interested in dropping weight from the car or modifing the car in sutch a way that lowers the cars value. This is an 02 and I would realy hate to do things that will be imposible to return the car to factor condition.

What ever I do has to be street legal and bolt on type stuff or minor welding but I am not interested in cutting the car up to put in tubs or a ladderbar or something like that. Please limit the responsise to the best bolt on modes that realy work.

With this in mind, I would like input on what all I should do to make the car hook, Best Drag radiuals, best suspention modes that realy work. Everything and anything.

My ET goal is to run 11.5's to 12.0's in the quarter.

I am serious in the fact I do not want to cut on this car. I had a 76 TA that was in perfect condition when I recieved it. The quest for more speed led me to destroy the car with cutting on everything to build a complete chasis. Granted the car turned into a speed demond in the quarter but now I realy wish I had left the car alone and had it to enjoy on the street again. What a trajic thing I did to a perfect car. Next time I build something like that it will be a junker from a junk yard, not a perfect car from the showroom floor.

Thanks guys and I can not wait to read your responsise so I can fix this problem best I can.

Slowverado

if you're losing traction and changing lanes and not running more than a 12.00 then there's a serious problem. just get a set of aftermarket LCAs and a PHR (i have both for sale currently) and a set of HAL shocks and you're set...if you want to go a little more extreme get a pro-kit and a new torque arm. personally my goals are for mid 10s on heads/cam with FULL suspension including: badz lcas and phr, mac sfcs, hals all around, pa k-member and upper/lower a-arms, custom torque arm,pro-kit, and probably a wolfe drag race swaybar...

SPELL CHECK

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

What do ya'll think about the Lower control arms, pan arm, and the torque arms sold by the sponsor Spohn? That stuff looks to be priceworthy. Has anyone tried their stuff yet? What do ya'll think the limitations are on that kind of stuff, as far as times go?

Will this kind of stuff hurt the day to day driving of the car? Do ya'll think this kind of stuff will work as good as the factory stuff as far as long road trips or high speed driving (120+) for extented periods of time?

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

What are you trying to do exactly, make the car turn, or launch the **** out of it?

Slowverado

the spohn products are probably good or they likely wouldn't be a sponsor of this board....

z2802sunsetls1

u want the best then go to www.lgmotorsports.com

Slowverado

heck yeah...if you want mediocre (sp?) parts for very high prices...then go for that.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

my only experience with spohn products are with their lca's, and i love 'em

Slowverado

my badz lcas and phr will be here tomorrow!!!! can't wait.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have full Spohn setup on my car LCA's, PHB and TQ arm. The TQ arm that I went with is the style that takes the mounting point off the tranny and moves it to a brace that replaces the tranny tunnel brace. I fee that this is a good idea, it no longer torque's on the tranny under accelleration and braking, and the car definately is more stable under high speed braking (like after passng thru the trap's on 1/4 mile passes ). I went with the non adjustable units, as I don't ever plan on lowering my car. If you are gonna run your car on the street, I'd stick with poly bushings, the rod ended versions probably won't last with sand, etc. that will get to them in time. I also spent the extra $$ on all chromoly, as I wanted to try not to up the weight too much. Parts all fit really well too, took about 3 hours to install everything myself with no help. I bought all the parts from a sponsor on another ls1 forum, they were offering a package price last year when I made the purchase. In my opinion, very good products, well tested, and have been proven to work. Send me an e-mail if you need any info. LJO524@aol.com

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

The question was asked what I was trying to do. I am trying to make the car launch. I want stuff that will make it launch on Drag Radials. The car will never turn faster then 11.5 ET's. That is the limit I chose to never pass. but I want the car to handle on the hyway and in turns like it does stock. I want something that I do not have to sacrifice the way the car handles and drives right now but makes the car launch great for an 11.5 second car.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Replacing all the rear suspension componens is the first step to a proper launching car. Next would be shocks ( Afco seem better to go with than Hal, I hear they like to leak ) and springs, a drag rear swaybar, 12 bolt/9 inch and the biggest tire that you dare run, nad if you're sticking with radials, 315/35 nitto/bfg's, or if you want to go to a 15 inch rim setup ( which will affect street manners with front skinnies ) go with the taller bfg tire. I know that there's been sub 9 second passes made on that tire, so it should give you all the traction you need, without being a strait slick.