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I have been fighting hub issues for the past couple years but this year has been especially bad for me. I killed 3 hub over the NJ Pro weekend and am looking to resolve this issue once and for all. I am looking to get some adapters made by a member on here in order to run some C5 SKF x-tracker hubs and retain ABS. So here's the pitch he needs to make them in batches of 8 and currently is about to make another batch if 2 or more people are willing to purchase these.
The kit price is $475 shipped to US. Includes adapters and all hardware. Does not include SKF hubs or brake plenums.
They are dimensionally equal to a factory hub, so there aren't any track width changes. They weigh 1.5# more than a Timken.
ABS is retained and functional.
Data point for those who care: if you want to have ABS you may need some adapters for the chassis-side cable to plug into the Corvette hubs.
Mouser.com has connectors
connector body: 829-12052638
oval o-rings: 829-12103067
connector lock: 829-12052634
Yep, does not change track width, bolts right up, ABS plugs in and functions like factory. Parts are beautifully CNC machined out of billet steel, and includes top quality hardware. As easy to install as a OE replacement hub. Not cheap but they will pay for themselves if you are serious about autocross or track. I went through 10 hubs last summer, got asked to not return to 2 parts stores since I was trying to warranty hubs that were cooked after a weekend.
Pad knock back is eliminated from the front. I have fixed wilwood calipers and they are extremely sensitive to hub flex.
Did 40+ runs on a very tight autocross course this weekend where I normally would have trashed a set of hubs after 1 day. The x-tracker SKF hubs are as tight as new.
I should correct myself. The ABS actually works BETTER now. Since the hubs don't wear, you don't get a crazy gap in the reluctor ring which causes the abs to go haywire. Much more consistent braking.
What's wrong with our stock hubs? I don't ever have an ABS light, but my car's brakes feel like they don't work when braking into a corner somewhat aggressively. Is the hubs my problem? They don't make any noise. Are both of mine bad or just one? I seem to notice it more when turning right. Is that any indication of which hub is bad?
What's wrong with our stock hubs? I don't ever have an ABS light, but my car's brakes feel like they don't work when braking into a corner somewhat aggressively. Is the hubs my problem? They don't make any noise. Are both of mine bad or just one? I seem to notice it more when turning right. Is that any indication of which hub is bad?
So if you AX or RR and put 315 Hoosier A7's on a car you will loosen the bearing on a factory hub. I can toast a hub that is brand new with 4-5 60 second autocross runs. Then check my hubs and they will have about 1/8" play up and down. If your car is a street car I would not really worry about this but to check it you can jack your car up and move the tire up and down if you feel it move and hear it hit metal at the top and bottom the bearings are shot. I could take one of the hubs I had move the bearings with the hub off the car in my hand at autozone when I was returning them one time.
Yep, sticky tires plus hard cornering equals dead hubs. In addition, the OEM hubs are the best. If yours are still solid - don't change them. ALL of the aftermarket replacements are complete garbage.
Earlier cars have a different design where there are two bearings separated by about 3 inches, riding on a spindle. To my unscientific mind, the older design appears to...
double the force handling capacity, due to two bearings per wheel
exert a more direct "up and down" force on the bearing/spindle assembly in reaction to road surface changes.
The newer hub assembly appears to exert an additional twist, because the bearing is completely to one side of the wheel centerline. I would think this predisposes the newer design to higher wear rates (all other things being equal). I'm sure there are solid engineering/cost/efficiency reasons why the newer design is common now, got that. But... if other things took priority, such as durability in extreme cornering conditions, what design (spindle, hub, something else) would be the "go to" approach?
I like how they managed to work the term "contains more *****" into the product description in a completely professional manner. THAT takes serious skill. Looks like a solid product too.
This is a completely new idea that I have never read about or even thought of. A curious thread this is, ugghh it makes me want to try it out. Not that I corner hard, yet, but it would be cool to future-proof for when I do. My money is currently funding a front suspension revamp that's got me tied up in the low $1,000ish range, so no hubs for me right now. Will keep that deep in the back of my mind though...
Wow, after 110k my hubs are still like new. I dont take turns fast either though, guess thats the killer.
Originally Posted by 79_T/A
Yep, sticky tires plus hard cornering equals dead hubs. In addition, the OEM hubs are the best. If yours are still solid - don't change them. ALL of the aftermarket replacements are complete garbage.
Auto-x or HPDE with r-comps is the dangerzone. But at least now it looks like we will have a solution.
06-15-2015, 03:33 PM
