BMR suspension car won't sit level
#1
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BMR suspension car won't sit level
So I bought a whole new suspension set up from bmr and I really need some help cause it's not sitting level and I see no way of adjusting it, did I just get crap parts or what?!
So the set up I got is straight from BMR, it's the bmr 1.25 lowering springs with the koni 1 way adjustable shocks new sway bar front and rear the adjustable rear extreme lower control arms and the lower control arm height adjustment brackets, adjustable panhard bar and panhard relocation kit, so since install I've noticed that it's not sitting level I noticed the passenger rear wheel always rub and everyone kept saying "oh it's just settling" well recently I started looking around and my whole passenger side sits lower then my drivers side by like 1/2 of an inch on the front and about 3/4 of an inch on the back... Seriously, wtf!!
What on earth could be causing that? I took the spare tire out the rear and still nothing, got a 4wheel alignment and still not real change.... any and all help would be nice....
BMR if u care to chime in I'd appreciate it
So the set up I got is straight from BMR, it's the bmr 1.25 lowering springs with the koni 1 way adjustable shocks new sway bar front and rear the adjustable rear extreme lower control arms and the lower control arm height adjustment brackets, adjustable panhard bar and panhard relocation kit, so since install I've noticed that it's not sitting level I noticed the passenger rear wheel always rub and everyone kept saying "oh it's just settling" well recently I started looking around and my whole passenger side sits lower then my drivers side by like 1/2 of an inch on the front and about 3/4 of an inch on the back... Seriously, wtf!!
What on earth could be causing that? I took the spare tire out the rear and still nothing, got a 4wheel alignment and still not real change.... any and all help would be nice....
BMR if u care to chime in I'd appreciate it
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My wheel is rubbing on the inside of the rolled fender, because it sits lower then the drivers side I have torque thrust 17x11 and yes my rear end is centered.
What do u mean facing the same way on the spring?
What do u mean facing the same way on the spring?
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Mine sits almost exactly like yours on Strano/koni . I'm about to do the heater hose mod for just the drivers side to even it out. My drivers side is about 3/4 inches higher in the rear,and about half an inch in the front. My passenger side front rubs on hard right turns. The front pass side sits lower than any other part of the car on mine at like 25 and 3/4 inches from the ground.
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if your tire is rubbing on a rolled fender then you NEED to adjust the panhard bar so as to CENTER the rear end, 1/2" difference from one side to the other is fairly common on these cars, even when stock, also as a general rule unless your parked on a flat concrete garage floor you can't really trust any measurement, when I did my trail blazer I pulled it out onto the paved street and took dimensions then turned it around on the same section of road and did them again and saw 1/2" or more dimension differences on some corners. my brothers lexus is250 is slammed (2 inch drop) and where he parks it sometimes one rear wheel has an inch or 2 of clearance from tire to fender while the other one is tucking half the tire (235/35/19) in the fender, point is truly level ground is important to accurate dimensions.
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x2 for checking it on level ground and on multiple sections to double check that it is truly level ground.
I've gotten very lucky when I bought my rear suspension and put it on. I bought Strano springs that were used at ~30,000 miles. I don't know it it makes a difference that they were broken in, if you can even "break in" a spring at all, however my car sat about 1/2 inch higher on the drivers side rear for about a month or two, now it recently leveled itself out somehow and both sides are pretty much identical. There's no way you could tell one side is lower than the other unless you brought out a measuring tape and got really picky. When I did the spring install, both of my spring isolators at the top of the spring never came out, they were basically stuck to the top of the car. When I put the new springs in, I indexed the springs to fit in the stuck isolators and both of the pigtails of the springs that sat on the axle tubes were facing the passenger's side. Food for thought as to which side the spring pigtails face when you install them.
Also having a 3/4 to a 1/2 tank of gas seems to be the best at keeping the rear level, or it could be a mind game it's playing with me. Having a full tank of gas seems to lower the passenger's side more I believe...
I've gotten very lucky when I bought my rear suspension and put it on. I bought Strano springs that were used at ~30,000 miles. I don't know it it makes a difference that they were broken in, if you can even "break in" a spring at all, however my car sat about 1/2 inch higher on the drivers side rear for about a month or two, now it recently leveled itself out somehow and both sides are pretty much identical. There's no way you could tell one side is lower than the other unless you brought out a measuring tape and got really picky. When I did the spring install, both of my spring isolators at the top of the spring never came out, they were basically stuck to the top of the car. When I put the new springs in, I indexed the springs to fit in the stuck isolators and both of the pigtails of the springs that sat on the axle tubes were facing the passenger's side. Food for thought as to which side the spring pigtails face when you install them.
Also having a 3/4 to a 1/2 tank of gas seems to be the best at keeping the rear level, or it could be a mind game it's playing with me. Having a full tank of gas seems to lower the passenger's side more I believe...
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As mention, a 1/2" difference on the passenger side is common on these cars. However, I will give you a couple of things to check that I also see happen on occasion:
1: ensure that the rear spring isolators are in place on both rear springs. This is the rubber piece that sits on top of the spring. If it is in place on the driver's side, but not on the passenger side it would cause this difference
2. you mentioned you have the Koni yellow shocks. These shocks have 2 possible mounting locations for the spring perch. Double check that these are on the same position on the shock body. There is about 3/4" difference in height between those.
3. this is a big one many people miss, make sure there is no pre-load on your sway bar. One sway bar end link being shorter than the other will increase the effective rate on that side and can shift load from one side to the other. Measure the lengths of your sway bar end links from where they attach at the sway bar to the attachment points at the control arms and the frame in the rear
4: double check the center on the axle
Double check all of these things and if it all checks out give me a call and we will try to go over some other possibilities and try to figure out a solution for you.
1: ensure that the rear spring isolators are in place on both rear springs. This is the rubber piece that sits on top of the spring. If it is in place on the driver's side, but not on the passenger side it would cause this difference
2. you mentioned you have the Koni yellow shocks. These shocks have 2 possible mounting locations for the spring perch. Double check that these are on the same position on the shock body. There is about 3/4" difference in height between those.
3. this is a big one many people miss, make sure there is no pre-load on your sway bar. One sway bar end link being shorter than the other will increase the effective rate on that side and can shift load from one side to the other. Measure the lengths of your sway bar end links from where they attach at the sway bar to the attachment points at the control arms and the frame in the rear
4: double check the center on the axle
Double check all of these things and if it all checks out give me a call and we will try to go over some other possibilities and try to figure out a solution for you.
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I had a similar problem when I lowered my car. Not the exact same equipment, but I found it to be a combination of panhard bar adjustment and undoing the sway bar end links with the car flat on the ground and than re tightening them.
This will eleminate any preload there might be on the suspension. My issue with the Panhard was I didnt account for lowering the car when I installed it (i laid it side by side to the OE one for length which is the proper length for OE ride height). Now that the car is lowered the Panhard bar needs to be a bit shorter to accommodate the change in suspension geometry.
This will eleminate any preload there might be on the suspension. My issue with the Panhard was I didnt account for lowering the car when I installed it (i laid it side by side to the OE one for length which is the proper length for OE ride height). Now that the car is lowered the Panhard bar needs to be a bit shorter to accommodate the change in suspension geometry.
#15
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I had a similar problem when I lowered my car. Not the exact same equipment, but I found it to be a combination of panhard bar adjustment and undoing the sway bar end links with the car flat on the ground and than re tightening them.
This will eleminate any preload there might be on the suspension. My issue with the Panhard was I didnt account for lowering the car when I installed it (i laid it side by side to the OE one for length which is the proper length for OE ride height). Now that the car is lowered the Panhard bar needs to be a bit shorter to accommodate the change in suspension geometry.
This will eleminate any preload there might be on the suspension. My issue with the Panhard was I didnt account for lowering the car when I installed it (i laid it side by side to the OE one for length which is the proper length for OE ride height). Now that the car is lowered the Panhard bar needs to be a bit shorter to accommodate the change in suspension geometry.
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Betting this is the issue.
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they pretty much have no choice but to "index" the front, it has to be done so the upper mount lines up with the lower mount (that bolts to the lower control arm) and since the upper mount sets the spring "rotation" the seat gets adjusted to match, not really any wiggle room there.
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and what some people may not realize is the rear isolator is actually sloped relative to the spring, meaning when the isolator is seated properly on the spring the top of it is not perpendicular to the sides of the spring (anyone else notice that?). So it needs to sit a very specific way when it goes up into the body or the isolators varying thickness will cause slightly different heights.
#20
and what some people may not realize is the rear isolator is actually sloped relative to the spring, meaning when the isolator is seated properly on the spring the top of it is not perpendicular to the sides of the spring (anyone else notice that?). So it needs to sit a very specific way when it goes up into the body or the isolators varying thickness will cause slightly different heights.