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Vendor Watts link differences

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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 02:22 PM
  #21  
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This sort of answers the weight question, but not fully. There has to be at least 8-10lbs of axle clamps which end up in the diff weight shown, but that is also where a big chunk of weight is saved on the whole package.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l#post15495183

Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.

BTW my set up is:

Alum Center
Wavetrac
35 spline
reinforced back brace
tow loops
Watts
4 ch. ABS rings
powder coat

I am sure a spool, 31 spline alxes and no back brace would be much lighter, not sure what the 10 bolt weighs, or a old style Moser 9".

Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.

MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #22  
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I like my MWC piece, but I've got the whole setup back there so it wouldn't have made sense to try and do anything else.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Thanks Rampant for answering the questions. For those acquiring about watts links, we have a version like Rampant has that is part of our fabricated nine inch or one that uses stand offs from the rear end that will work with anyone else's rear end.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
As for heim joint quality we have been using the same heim joints for years with our watts link with no complaints of noise or failure and to be honest the ones we sell with our watts link are a higher quality heim joint than what some company's use with their LCA's or PHB's.
Aurora, FK??
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Aurora, FK??
We normally use FK and a few of the Viking products, just depends on applications.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 03:05 PM
  #26  
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Claptrap in the sense that it's a lot of coordination to install as one person with the car on jack stands in the garage. Definitely recommend a helper!

Originally Posted by dailydriver
When you say "claptrap" are you referring to it's design/installation/how it clamps to axle tubes, or is it that it actually makes A LOT of noise in daily use on bad roads (heim joint rattle/knock/hammering), and even MORE noise than a double rod ended panhard bar/lca set up???
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 06:52 PM
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Midwest, can you comment on how much lower you can adjust the roll center versus a stock height pan hard rod?
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 04:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Claptrap in the sense that it's a lot of coordination to install as one person with the car on jack stands in the garage. Definitely recommend a helper!
Thanks!

So it IS mostly quiet in daily street driven (even on bad roads) operation??
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Thanks!

So it IS mostly quiet in daily street driven (even on bad roads) operation??
There is definitely some rod-end noise on rear, but I have almost 10 heim joints on the back of my car, so probs not the watt's link.

Last edited by blackandgold; Aug 19, 2015 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Thanks!

So it IS mostly quiet in daily street driven (even on bad roads) operation??
Yes, I can not hear the watts link working when the helm joints are up to snuff and everything torqued correctly.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
Thanks Rampant for answering the questions. For those acquiring about watts links, we have a version like Rampant has that is part of our fabricated nine inch or one that uses stand offs from the rear end that will work with anyone else's rear end.
Could someone order the one using stand offs now to connect to a stock rear, then (if upgrading in the future) order a fab 9" from you guys with the integrated stand offs and reuse the existing watts link?

It seems like it would be possible, you just would be getting rid of the axle clamps.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by z-camaro
Could someone order the one using stand offs now to connect to a stock rear, then (if upgrading in the future) order a fab 9" from you guys with the integrated stand offs and reuse the existing watts link?

It seems like it would be possible, you just would be getting rid of the axle clamps.
Yes you can do that no problem.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 79_T/A
Midwest, can you comment on how much lower you can adjust the roll center versus a stock height pan hard rod?
?????
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 04:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 79_T/A
Midwest, can you comment on how much lower you can adjust the roll center versus a stock height pan hard rod?
Midwest chassis, can you comment or do you not have the information?
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 08:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 79_T/A
Midwest chassis, can you comment or do you not have the information?
Of course I have the info, but there is some specific info we do not divulge to the general public. This is one of those cases.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 10:10 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
Of course I have the info, but there is some specific info we do not divulge to the general public. This is one of those cases.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
Of course I have the info, but there is some specific info we do not divulge to the general public. This is one of those cases.
So I just have to blindly purchase a part without knowing a critical piece of info? Will you disclose privately?
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 79_T/A
So I just have to blindly purchase a part without knowing a critical piece of info? Will you disclose privately?
I will have no issues discussing the specifics of said item with a purchasing customer. Gotta understand I have had customers purchase items, copy, and show prints right here on this forum.
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 03:33 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
I will have no issues discussing the specifics of said item with a purchasing customer. Gotta understand I have had customers purchase items, copy, and show prints right here on this forum.
And you think "a purchasing customer" can't do the same in this case of a watts link? It's a shitty thing to do (copy parts etc) but a watts link is not rocket science. It can only bolt on in 2 places and they all work the same.

I don't see how saying "Our watts link allows you to lower the roll center 2" below a PHB" is divulging any critical information. It is not proclaiming anything better/worse than any other watts link out there. Hell how may times have you even been asked that question? LOL

Anyone with one of your watts links could give us this value after the install. If 79 T/A is "interested" in your piece and you tell him the value, at which point he is not happy with because it is not sufficient, will you get mad because he didn't buy it?

I apologize if this comes across as an attack. That is not the intent, the reason behind withholding the info seems odd that's all.
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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 10:36 AM
  #40  
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No problem.

One issue we have here is that roll center is depicted by ride height. So relative to what measurement we start with will change the amount of the available difference. Say the MWC Watts link can lower the center by 3.75 inches at stock weight and stock springs. Next guy has coil-overs and lowered 1.25 inches measured at wheel opening, and weighs 200 less. Now we are only at 2.5 inches of available change.

What I will tell you is that there is 3.75" of adjustment height for the propeller mount(direct roll center point of a Watts equipped car) that should cover any available ride height of a 4th gen car. Of the cars we have done installs on the propeller setting ended up just over the middle of the adjustment range.
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