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Things to keep in mind when lowering?

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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 11:54 PM
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Default Things to keep in mind when lowering?

I am planning to install new Koni STR.T shocks and strano 1.25" lowering springs on my 1997 z28. But this is my first time lowering a car and I want to make sure I am aware of any consequences. I have read a few places that it messes with your suspension geometry (obviously) and can have downsides because of it. I'm planning on replacing my lower control arms (BMR) along with a relo bracket and a PHB. Are there any other suggestions or precautions I need to know before doing this? I'm thinking about sticking with stock springs because they work fine. Thanks!
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 12:52 AM
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You will need an adjustable panhard bar as your rear will shift with the new lowering springs. You'll need to re-center it. Also take a look at your bumpstops as they are most likely gone.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by M4N14C
You will need an adjustable panhard bar as your rear will shift with the new lowering springs. You'll need to re-center it. Also take a look at your bumpstops as they are most likely gone.
Yes I almost forgot about the bump stops. Those were already corroded and gone. Why does the PHB need to be adjustable?
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by clrusso21
Yes I almost forgot about the bump stops. Those were already corroded and gone. Why does the PHB need to be adjustable?
The panhard bar centers the rear. If its not adjustable, it won't be able to adjust the rear end back to center.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by clrusso21
I am planning to install new Koni STR.T shocks and strano 1.25" lowering springs on my 1997 z28. But this is my first time lowering a car and I want to make sure I am aware of any consequences. I have read a few places that it messes with your suspension geometry (obviously) and can have downsides because of it. I'm planning on replacing my lower control arms (BMR) along with a relo bracket and a PHB. Are there any other suggestions or precautions I need to know before doing this? I'm thinking about sticking with stock springs because they work fine. Thanks!
+1 for the adjustable PHB.
You do NOT need LCA's and relocation brackets. While they might help if you get wheel hop, that's all they will really benefit.
If you do get aftermarket LCAs, do not get poly bushings.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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If you go with 11" wide wheels, you will likely need to roll the fenders, and the BFH mod on the inner wheel well.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 11:04 AM
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In the OPs' opening post he stated "I'm thinking about sticking with stock springs because they work fine."
If he keeps using the stock springs,there won't be any lowering at all. Springs control height and shocks control movement.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by clrusso21
I am planning to install new Koni STR.T shocks and strano 1.25" lowering springs on my 1997 z28. But this is my first time lowering a car and I want to make sure I am aware of any consequences. I have read a few places that it messes with your suspension geometry (obviously) and can have downsides because of it. I'm planning on replacing my lower control arms (BMR) along with a relo bracket and a PHB. Are there any other suggestions or precautions I need to know before doing this? I'm thinking about sticking with stock springs because they work fine. Thanks!
I would go ahead and plan on replacing the strut mounts with a set of Moog or OEM ones if you have a decent amount of mileage on the car. Normally I recommend getting the Moog ones off of rockauto.com. You have the suspension components listed that will take care of fixing the suspension geometry after the car has been lowered. Plan on losing a little ground clearance and little stiffer ride but honestly the Koni shocks and those spring will team up just fine together. It is really hard to beat a car with a nice aggressive lowered stance that handles well so if it were me I would lower it.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
I would go ahead and plan on replacing the strut mounts with a set of Moog or OEM ones if you have a decent amount of mileage on the car. Normally I recommend getting the Moog ones off of rockauto.com. You have the suspension components listed that will take care of fixing the suspension geometry after the car has been lowered. Plan on losing a little ground clearance and little stiffer ride but honestly the Koni shocks and those spring will team up just fine together. It is really hard to beat a car with a nice aggressive lowered stance that handles well so if it were me I would lower it.
Thank you for being so helpful. The car does have 110k miles on it, so should I just err on the side of caution and replace the strut mounts, or should I check them first to see if they're in good shape? Also, I'll make sure I get that adjustable PHB from you guys.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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I just did a complete BMR suspension rebuild around the same mileage you are at now. Also used the exact same shocks. The shock mounts will definately need to be replaced unless you are extremely lucky, but why not just have everything ready to go in as one unit after you take the old unit out.

Things you will definately want to purchase before hand (other than shocks and springs):
1. adjustable panhard rod
2. LCA relocation brackets
3. Moog Upper Shock Mounts (K6516 for the left K6517 for the right)
4. Two Moog Upper mount isolators (K6573)
5. Two Moog Lower coil seat (K80927)

You will also want to really pay attention to the tools you have because getting that stupid T-50 or T-47 torx screws from under the brake booster was a pain in the ***.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-6-5-15-a.html
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by clrusso21
Thank you for being so helpful. The car does have 110k miles on it, so should I just err on the side of caution and replace the strut mounts, or should I check them first to see if they're in good shape? Also, I'll make sure I get that adjustable PHB from you guys.
Not a problem, we are here to help out any way we can. While you are there I would definitely just go ahead and throw new strut mounts in because you aren't going to want to tear anything back apart once you have it together.

Just let us know when you are ready for the PHB and we will take care of you on it. We have a Thanksgiving Day/Black Friday sale starting on Monday so I would take advantage of that and save a couple $$$.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Not a problem, we are here to help out any way we can. While you are there I would definitely just go ahead and throw new strut mounts in because you aren't going to want to tear anything back apart once you have it together.

Just let us know when you are ready for the PHB and we will take care of you on it. We have a Thanksgiving Day/Black Friday sale starting on Monday so I would take advantage of that and save a couple $$$.
Perfect timing then! I will order it on Black Friday because that is when I get paid. I want to get the package with the LCA and PHB together: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...349&superpro=0

Do I need to pm you? Or will the sale be open to anyone if I order on Friday?
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jaxcam02
I just did a complete BMR suspension rebuild around the same mileage you are at now. Also used the exact same shocks. The shock mounts will definately need to be replaced unless you are extremely lucky, but why not just have everything ready to go in as one unit after you take the old unit out.

Things you will definately want to purchase before hand (other than shocks and springs):
1. adjustable panhard rod
2. LCA relocation brackets
3. Moog Upper Shock Mounts (K6516 for the left K6517 for the right)
4. Two Moog Upper mount isolators (K6573)
5. Two Moog Lower coil seat (K80927)

You will also want to really pay attention to the tools you have because getting that stupid T-50 or T-47 torx screws from under the brake booster was a pain in the ***.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-6-5-15-a.html

I'm glad you could help with specifics, thank you! I have a leftover T-50 from having to replace the trunk struts lol. Thanks for the link, and good luck with your build!
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by clrusso21
I'm glad you could help with specifics, thank you! I have a leftover T-50 from having to replace the trunk struts lol. Thanks for the link, and good luck with your build!
Oh I finished mine already. Took a whole weekend to do, granted at a slow and comfortable pace but it was fun to do.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 05:32 PM
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So what happens if you don't install an adjustable panhard bar? I will be getting BMR lowering springs and Koni STR shocks installed, and that's it. None of the other parts mentioned in this thread. I talked to the sponsor that will be doing the work and he said I didn't need an adjustable panhard. I said so I have all the parts I need? He said yep.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by X-ray
So what happens if you don't install an adjustable panhard bar? I will be getting BMR lowering springs and Koni STR shocks installed, and that's it. None of the other parts mentioned in this thread. I talked to the sponsor that will be doing the work and he said I didn't need an adjustable panhard. I said so I have all the parts I need? He said yep.
your driverside tire will stick closer to the driverside rear quarter then the passenger tire is to the passenger rear quarter which also puts side ways pressure on all the suspension parts that are just made to move up and down which can reduce traction and cause odd binding.

it's not an expensive part (less then a 100 bucks if you go with the Founders part) so there is no reason NOT to do it.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 07:53 PM
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Well I can still get it, still waiting on exhaust parts before I take my car in for the job. I just don't understand why he told me it wasn't needed. Maybe it isn't totally necessary but it sounds like it should be highly recommended.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:09 PM
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Every car is different and I would just wait until you lower it to see where it sits. My car really didn't shift after I lowered it so I saw no benefit in buying an adj. panhard bar. My 17x11's fit well back there after a little massaging.
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks, that's good to hear. That alleviates my fears. I guess that's why they told me not to worry about buying a PHB. They are pretty knowledgeable, but then you start reading stuff...
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 10:16 PM
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all I can say is it was visibly noticeable when I installed my BMR springs. I wanna say it was like a 1/2" difference from quarter panel to tire on one side versus the other, which meant a 1/4" or so shift to recenter.
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