Whisper

iTrader: (12)

So the car I bought has Eibach lowering springs that I used to be indifferent to. I installed some Koni SA shocks but I beleive its time to go back to stock ride height and was wondering the best place to get new but stock Z28 springs? The car has two issues that make the rear lowering springs a nightmare. First, the car has true duals dumped before the axle so any bump usually causes scraping. Also, the seal on the rear hatch glass has started to fail so now I often have 3 to 4 gallons of standing water in the rear hatch area that further compounds the lowering springs and the already low hanging exhaust.

Is there any issue with running stock spring in the rear while keeping the lowering springs in the front? I'm sure its not the best for handling but currently my main objective is getting more clearance so I don't potentially lose a muffler anytime I encounter a bump.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

It just now dawned on me I screwed up the title. The SPRINGS would be different in the rear- not the shocks. The car has Koni SAs all around.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

I'm gonna be Mr. Obvious here and come out and say fix that seal on the rear hatch glass!!! Especially if it's a car you drive daily and don't store indoors. I feel like that could lead to bigger complications down the road.

I ran lowering springs in the rear of my car for a little while with stockers up front. Albeit my front springs were sagging a tad to begin with. It's not going to be bad if you run lowering springs in the front and stock springs out back, but it's not going to be ideal either. I wouldn't believe any of the suspension geometry would be that out of whack that it would hurt anything. It'll probably look funky more than anything

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

you can run different springs between front and rear, but the ride and handling will typically suffer as the springs rates react very differently to bumps in the road. or atleast that was my experience on other cars where I did that.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

Yeah thats first on the agenda. But since I know I want to keep the dumps and whats more I want to go to an actual chambered muffler instead of the bullet style on the car now, I know I'm going to need more clearance. So I may just have to go with a car that sits higher in the rear for awhile.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

There are 3 'looks' of f-bods on this forum,stock height,lowered,and 'raked'. The 'raked' appearance are the cars that need more rear height for large traction-enhancing tires. It shouldn't look too unusual.
post a pic of it when it's done.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

my oem slp bilsteins on my 2002 sagged real bad on the rear,
and either last year or year before i replaced just the rear springs with oem ones from autozone, they were priced ok and have lifetime warranty, and i knew i could return them within a week if they didnt work out, rather than buy from rockauto for a little cheaper but be stuck with them.

my well gap on the rear is about equal to what the front gap is with bilstein shocks.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

Yeah I also bought some lightly used 305/40/18 Nitto 555R Drag radials and finally rolled a tire out to see how much clearance I have. They would basiclly touch the fenderwell as is. I know Id have more clearance with them actually on the car as the current rear tires have a much lower profile but in any case I've got a lot of things needing me to get more space in the rear.

joecar

Drill a pair of drainage holes in the corners of the grocery cavity.

dailydriver

...or he could just unplug the rubber unibody drain caps from under that area...

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Smh..........

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You may find that stock rear springs with "hose mod",
or generic spring spacers from an older vehicle, are a
good match to lowering springs. This was true for my
setup (-1" Hotchkiss). I have been using a pair of
generic looking spring isolators that were lying on my
buddy's shop cart, no idea (him or me) what they are
out of but springs is springs pretty much and all you
want is a flat bit of hard rubber that won't get lost.

I also run mismatched shocks (SLP Bilsteins up front,
Gabriel Hi-Jackers at 0 PSI out back - unless I've got
something real heavy in the trunk). No complaints
about handling or ride quality, better than the Bilsteins
at the rear position according to my experience with
both (Bilsteins were harsh on the tailbone, Gabriels
less so, no evident difference in control).

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've got QA1 Hal adjustable shocks in the front.....Bilsteins in the rear. Handles and feels great. Springs are all LG G2 Super Springs.

.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Do you know exactly where the water is getting through the seal...?
Because a lot of times its the actual back glass pulling away from the pinchweld on the hatch because the urethane glue is failing. So the rain hits the glass, runs straight down to the bottom of the glass and then it gets inbetween the glass and hatch.........

Its a 10 minute fix. You need a tube of urethane from a glass shop (about $5.00) and a gun tool to shoot it with.

Take the interior piece off and run a new bead along the whole thing.....

This was where my water was getting in and filling up that area with water.......

.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

That might be what I'm dealing with. Up at the top of the back glass the rubber seal has also visibly came away from the glass so it could be the top, the bottom, or both.



Regarding shocks, it looks like I'm going to go back to the stock Z28 Moogs.