Difficulty steering
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From: Rochester, Michigan
Difficulty steering I've been working on this project for a long time now. Basically the entire car is new. New motor, trans, rear end, interior and entire front suspension. So I get everything together, running and go to drive the car. Now mind you, this isn't your everyday build. Custom built engine dynoed 1050 hp, Rossler TH400 Transmission, Dana 60 rear end. Took out all power steering, brakes, etc. OMG this thing is a monster but impossible to drive. I've driven old old old cars that are easier to drive than this. It has a BMR tubular K Member, Spohn tubular upper and lower control arms, Pinto rack. Now as far as tires go, it has Hoosier Racing tires (not radials) on the front. I've looked into the electric power steering but to me thats just something else to go wrong. Anybody have any ideas on how to improve the steering on this thing.
Last edited by SS125; Sep 25, 2016 at 02:33 PM.
Taking the power steering off will make it harder to start. Putting a thick tire contact patch on the rears and make the front contact patches smaller will make your steering way less responsive and will make the car under-steer like crazy - giving you more to fight.
^ Depending on what you did in the rear end, it could make the above impossible to handle. What kind of differential are you using? Do you feel the car wanting to pull to one side or another under acceleration. (ie: are you also fighting torque steer?)
It sounds to me that you are describing driving a tractor. Have you ever done that? It could help here. With such a powerful car and drivetrain, a steering problem may not be in your front end. If your rear wheels don't want to cooperate with you and go around a curve - it won't happen.
^ Depending on what you did in the rear end, it could make the above impossible to handle. What kind of differential are you using? Do you feel the car wanting to pull to one side or another under acceleration. (ie: are you also fighting torque steer?)
It sounds to me that you are describing driving a tractor. Have you ever done that? It could help here. With such a powerful car and drivetrain, a steering problem may not be in your front end. If your rear wheels don't want to cooperate with you and go around a curve - it won't happen.
what amount of caster do you have?
more positive caster will make the front wheels want to stay straight, and increase steering effort. with the power steering removed, you probably need to reduce caster from the oem +4.x°. Guessing to something down around +2°.
And then if you camber & toe is off as well that won't help either.
more positive caster will make the front wheels want to stay straight, and increase steering effort. with the power steering removed, you probably need to reduce caster from the oem +4.x°. Guessing to something down around +2°.
And then if you camber & toe is off as well that won't help either.
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Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 596
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From: Rochester, Michigan
Taking the power steering off will make it harder to start. Putting a thick tire contact patch on the rears and make the front contact patches smaller will make your steering way less responsive and will make the car under-steer like crazy - giving you more to fight.
^ Depending on what you did in the rear end, it could make the above impossible to handle. What kind of differential are you using? Do you feel the car wanting to pull to one side or another under acceleration. (ie: are you also fighting torque steer?)
It sounds to me that you are describing driving a tractor. Have you ever done that? It could help here. With such a powerful car and drivetrain, a steering problem may not be in your front end. If your rear wheels don't want to cooperate with you and go around a curve - it won't happen.
^ Depending on what you did in the rear end, it could make the above impossible to handle. What kind of differential are you using? Do you feel the car wanting to pull to one side or another under acceleration. (ie: are you also fighting torque steer?)
It sounds to me that you are describing driving a tractor. Have you ever done that? It could help here. With such a powerful car and drivetrain, a steering problem may not be in your front end. If your rear wheels don't want to cooperate with you and go around a curve - it won't happen.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, Michigan
what amount of caster do you have?
more positive caster will make the front wheels want to stay straight, and increase steering effort. with the power steering removed, you probably need to reduce caster from the oem +4.x°. Guessing to something down around +2°.
And then if you camber & toe is off as well that won't help either.
more positive caster will make the front wheels want to stay straight, and increase steering effort. with the power steering removed, you probably need to reduce caster from the oem +4.x°. Guessing to something down around +2°.
And then if you camber & toe is off as well that won't help either.
Your right, it is like driving a tractor and yes I've done that. I don't have a spool in this rear end. I've had one of those and yes, that is not a lot of fun. As far as what has been done to the rear end, It's been changed from a 12 bolt to the Dana 60. Has BMR LCA's, Spohn Torque Arm and Hoosier DOT 10.5" tires in the rear, and a Wolfe Racecraft single sway bar. I took the car out yesterday and tested it a bit and it didn't really pull to one side or the other. Finally, the tires in the front and tires in the back are bias ply tires on 15" wheels. Would it help a bit if they were radials (i.e. drag radials on the back and a skinny radial on the front?
Do you still have your old wheels/tires? If so, can put put them on the car? That would be an interesting experiment to use them as a "control" and see how much the new tires are an upsetting component of the equation.
This is unusual, most customers who switch to a pinto rack report easier and smoother steering, especially over a de-powered stock rack.
When you did the rack conversion, did you use a kit or make your own? I have seen steering shafts with too much working angle on the u-joints causing a bind under turning. This will cause it to be "jerky" and require a lot of steering effort. Running a wider tire in the front does not help with this either, but it still should not be as difficult as you describe. Can you get some pictures of your setup so maybe I can take a look and see if I can identify any issues?
When you did the rack conversion, did you use a kit or make your own? I have seen steering shafts with too much working angle on the u-joints causing a bind under turning. This will cause it to be "jerky" and require a lot of steering effort. Running a wider tire in the front does not help with this either, but it still should not be as difficult as you describe. Can you get some pictures of your setup so maybe I can take a look and see if I can identify any issues?
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!