Ball Joints
#1
Ball Joints
Ok so I'm going to do the ball joints on the Z but I am NOT spending $46 a piece for the Moog upper's what brand would be my 2nd choice? I'm not cheap I'm just replacing many things.
control arms
all bushings
shocks
ball joints
and my Mother told me that money don't grow on trees ya know.
control arms
all bushings
shocks
ball joints
and my Mother told me that money don't grow on trees ya know.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I've always used the Moog balljoints over the years. Looking at the mods you've done, the balljoints likely cost less than just your oil pump. If the pump dies the car stops (yes, the engine rebuild isn't cheap, but the car will likely just stop). If the balljoint fails, you're likely to actually wreck the car. It's your money, but I'd use the Moog or order a set from UMI (I know they run what they sell and they've run it HARD in testing).
I actually just ordered Moog front end bushings and balljoints from Strano a month or two ago. Rebuilding the front end is a winter project for this year (I have to swap out a bent spindle from the previous owner and I'll just do the rest while I'm in there).
I'm a buy once/cry once kind of guy. Your results may vary.
I actually just ordered Moog front end bushings and balljoints from Strano a month or two ago. Rebuilding the front end is a winter project for this year (I have to swap out a bent spindle from the previous owner and I'll just do the rest while I'm in there).
I'm a buy once/cry once kind of guy. Your results may vary.
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#8
We have replacement ball joints for $39.99 that we have had great success running on our 4th Gen. F-body. We abuse it more than most street car applications running road course/auto-x events.
Craig
Craig
#9
Get a good set from Moog or one offered by the sponsors on here. I do not know of these cheaper brands but I have heard nothing but good things about Moog. And also, I have installed Moog bushings and ball joints on my front suspension and could not be happier.
#11
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
We use PRO-FORGED balljoints in our arms. They are heavy duty and greasable. They are $41.95 each through us for uppers and the lowers are $19.95 each
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#12
I've always used the Moog balljoints over the years. Looking at the mods you've done, the balljoints likely cost less than just your oil pump. If the pump dies the car stops (yes, the engine rebuild isn't cheap, but the car will likely just stop). If the balljoint fails, you're likely to actually wreck the car. It's your money, but I'd use the Moog or order a set from UMI (I know they run what they sell and they've run it HARD in testing).
I actually just ordered Moog front end bushings and balljoints from Strano a month or two ago. Rebuilding the front end is a winter project for this year (I have to swap out a bent spindle from the previous owner and I'll just do the rest while I'm in there).
I'm a buy once/cry once kind of guy. Your results may vary.
I actually just ordered Moog front end bushings and balljoints from Strano a month or two ago. Rebuilding the front end is a winter project for this year (I have to swap out a bent spindle from the previous owner and I'll just do the rest while I'm in there).
I'm a buy once/cry once kind of guy. Your results may vary.
#14
TECH Apprentice
I prefer XRF ball joints and tie-rod ends. They're not really budget parts though. Like someone else said, "you get what you pay for."
http://www.ebay.com/p/Suspension-Bal...6462/114893371
http://www.ebay.com/p/Suspension-Bal...6462/114893371
#15
TECH Apprentice
I have strano/koni and nothing but MOOG or UMI. You really can't go wrong there. It rides and handles amazing. Especially compared to the eibach/bilstein combo I had before. Night and day difference.
Some advise. If you decide to replace the control arm bushings have new hardware ready. You many need to cut it out of there. I had remove my entire k-member and have the front lower control arms removed by someone. I just couldn't get them out myself. See the pic below. Those were my front lower control arm bolts.
Some advise. If you decide to replace the control arm bushings have new hardware ready. You many need to cut it out of there. I had remove my entire k-member and have the front lower control arms removed by someone. I just couldn't get them out myself. See the pic below. Those were my front lower control arm bolts.
Last edited by matt1289; 10-27-2016 at 05:28 AM.
#16
I have strano/koni and nothing but MOOG or UMI. You really can't go wrong there. It rides and handles amazing. Especially compared to the eibach/bilstein combo I had before. Night and day difference.
Some advise. If you decide to replace the control arm bushings have new hardware ready. You many need to cut it out of there. I had remove my entire k-member and have the front lower control arms removed by someone. I just couldn't get them out myself. See the pic below. Those were my front lower control arm bolts.
Some advise. If you decide to replace the control arm bushings have new hardware ready. You many need to cut it out of there. I had remove my entire k-member and have the front lower control arms removed by someone. I just couldn't get them out myself. See the pic below. Those were my front lower control arm bolts.
WOW that's crazy the way your bolts are rusted, mine came right out, no rust almost at all. I sanded primed and painted everything better than "New".
#17
My LCA bolts that connected at the K Member were in very good shape luckily. I cleaned them up and reused them. However, the hardware for the shocks, hubs, and of course end links had to get new hardware. Some of them did not hold torque at all when I was building them back up. I would be prepared to get new hardware from a good hardware store.
It might be my computer screen but your upper and lower control arms look like they are blue.
It might be my computer screen but your upper and lower control arms look like they are blue.
#18
My LCA bolts that connected at the K Member were in very good shape luckily. I cleaned them up and reused them. However, the hardware for the shocks, hubs, and of course end links had to get new hardware. Some of them did not hold torque at all when I was building them back up. I would be prepared to get new hardware from a good hardware store.
It might be my computer screen but your upper and lower control arms look like they are blue.
It might be my computer screen but your upper and lower control arms look like they are blue.