Boxxx

Because the lower it is and the more it shatters the vertebrae of your spine the better it handles and the cooler it looks, of course I say that sardonically. As far as the Miata goes I know my NA6 had a lot of body flex and roll stock, so maybe the high spring rates are an attempt at remedying that without resorting to a lot of heavy add on braces or having to buy other suspension components that won't make the car look cooler in addition to improving handling.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Nothing wrong with painters tape numbers! We finally got rid of our painters tape for an actual vinyl number set.

Unfortunately we too have to run in an unlimited class, ITE. Not many cars run it, mainly us, a CTS-V, and a BMW. We usually manage to pull the win. We are in the process of converting the car to GT2 specs to run US Majors Tour, while building another one for GT2 as well (the 98 in my sig). As soon as it's done being built I'm going to start sending out sponsorship request packets, trying to pay attention to the details on this car, nobody wants to sponsor a pile!

Edit: Here is a link to a photo of the car with the owner/primary driver if anybody wants to see.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That's called Motion ratio, the movement of the spring vs. the wheel. However, that's pretty much a given, and I don't see the reason to almost quadruple the rates. I'm also amused by the "autocross" springs that are popping up, also stiffer than ones that actually WON things. LOL.

One of the reasons for this car was the springs and dampers that were on it to start with which allowed me to do some A/B testing to see if I felt I was still on the right path. I'm confident I am.

topless2002SS

I would like to eliminate or minimize the feeling that the car is twisting in the middle at times. My last convertible and don't laugh was my first car when I was 17, a 64 Impala SS in 1972. It had a full frame and if I remember correctly it felt more solid.
Thanks

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

your car was designed from the start to be a convertible. All 4th gens were, and then converts had additional bracing added. What you have now it far stiffer than the comparison car. If you want SFC's that's fine, and it would further stiffen it. But usually the issue is more down to the front and rear suspension don't play well together, leading to a two-phase turn in feel like a bendy city bus.

JD_AMG

Another reason I buy from you, you actually test different products, and not just your own and learn from it.
Ok but I gotta ask, what about on a high speed road course situation? Do you think the same given car would benefit from a little stiffer springs (not like 1000lbs/in)?
I would expect a 4th gen setup for auto-x to be a little softer than one setup for higher speed courses.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well, it's going to Summit Point WV this weekend. I was just doing a brake swap tonight.

But no. It's not an aero car. And this whole notion of autox vs. road course setups has never made sense to me. Both require the same things to go fast. Balance, predictability, power down, stability. Car doesn't morph when on a track. And *IF* say I were to do 120 on the interstate, I don't want to die there either.

JD_AMG

Ha, I was just about to post this same response.
While SFCs certainly don't hurt, its likely not the issue. Most people are not used to driving cars with solid axles. The front will react to things differently than the rear(especially with shitty shocks) and many people perceive this as "flexing". It also doesn't help that its a PHB setup so the rear is moving in an arc and can "pull" the body over and down sometimes and you will feel it.
When I got my car I knew about the SFC hype that all these cars "need" them, while it was on my to-do list I wanted to first fix the terrible high speed stability (float, bob and weave), my car only had ~40,000 at the time and the "better" WS6 valved decarbon shocks, so its not like I was pushing high miles with worn out or leaking parts. After searching and talking to people (and almost falling for the QA1 hype at the time, ugh) I bought Koni SAs and simply put it was the best mod ive ever done. Not only did I get the high speed stability fixed (glued to the road, my god...) but my ride significantly improved (german sports sedan like, firm but not jarring, the few rattles i had went away the car became super solid) and what I thought was the "flex" was actually gone as well, the front and rear were WAY more in sync. The car was totally transformed.
Much later down the road I wanted to see if SFC's would do anything for me, after I had strano springs, strano swaybars, and I think I had the watts link at the time too I bought the bolt in 3 point SFC's and had them welded. Simply put they did nothing noticeable. The friend that welded them is an fbody owner and knows the ins and outs and rode with me after the job was done and was kinda confused, difference was I had fixed the "problem" with actual good shocks that do their job.

topless2002SS

Thanks Sam, this is why I haven't gone out and started buying parts yet, I'll call you when I am ready to start the process of correcting the car in the spring. the car is all stock with everything as it came from new. 51000 miles, it was in a collector's collection until I bought it. Sold in Cali shipped to Florida and then up north, never driven in foul weather up here from the looks of the undercarriage.

topless2002SS

JD thanks I am 61 I have been driving solid axle cars for 45 years, don't think that is my problem.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly what I run, high speed road course wheel to wheel. I use almost exactly the same spring rate Sam does, my rears are just a tad stiffer. We had 150s on there and bumped them up to 200 to see if it works better. Fastest straight for me is between 150 and 160 and the fastest turn is about 120. Should qualify as a high speed course

hardtrailz

I did the subframe connects on my vert simply due to the roads full of potholes that I encounter daily. It really did help with making the car feel like it was not coming apart at the seams, but I do agree for other aspects it will be far nicer when I have the $ to dial in a better suspension.

smitty2919

SFC come in handy when loading a car on an open trailer and the ramp falls out at which point the car drops onto the trailer...SFC save the day.

hardtrailz

That mental picture made me cringe

smitty2919

A loud F bomb exclaimed from my mouth...but could have been worse. That was the last time driving the car on. Bought a HF 12,000lb winch and have been slowly/safely winching ever since. I can load the car myself now and not need someone to guide me on.

flyboy129

They also extend the jack points to the whole length of the rocker. Made it nice when I was down to one working jack while doing my trans/clutch swap.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

If jacking the car is an issue, Flying Miata sells a nifty jack adapter that straddles the pinch weld.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Mother of god.....

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I generally recommend jacking front and rear if possible to minimize flex on the body SFC or not. If you just think about the weight you are lifting that way, the chassis will flex in doing so. Note nothing is infinitely stiff, certainly not a car. SFC's stiffen it, they don't eliminate flex.

So if you don't want to be twisting on the unibody more than necessary and feel SFC's are an important part of that, then I'd suspect you would not want to jack it up on a corner either if possible.

hardtrailz

If you have one jack...where do you recommend jacking? For tire rotation? For oil change?