Soft brake pedal after bleed
10-24-2016, 06:41 AM
#1
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Soft brake pedal after bleed Hello LS'ers,
Here we go, so i've flushed my brake system with about 5 quarts already and continue to experience a soft brake, brakes almost 3/4 of the way down on the pedal after turning the vehicle on. I've used a Modis Ultra along with the Master Cylinder Pressure Bleeder to do the brake bleed to also remove the air from the ABS system, but what I found odd was that it had me start from the front left > front right > rear left > rear right. I've taken it on multiple test drives to see if the brakes are even a little stiffer but thats not the case. I am almost at the point where I want to just throw in the towel. No leaks anywhere and i'm almost completely out of patience.
Items Replaced:
Power Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
ABS Module
All Calipers
Leaky Brake Lines
Here we go, so i've flushed my brake system with about 5 quarts already and continue to experience a soft brake, brakes almost 3/4 of the way down on the pedal after turning the vehicle on. I've used a Modis Ultra along with the Master Cylinder Pressure Bleeder to do the brake bleed to also remove the air from the ABS system, but what I found odd was that it had me start from the front left > front right > rear left > rear right. I've taken it on multiple test drives to see if the brakes are even a little stiffer but thats not the case. I am almost at the point where I want to just throw in the towel. No leaks anywhere and i'm almost completely out of patience.
Items Replaced:
Power Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
ABS Module
All Calipers
Leaky Brake Lines
10-24-2016, 11:29 AM
#2
A couple of questions - 1) did you bench bleed the master cylinder? 2) have the calipers been positioned so the bleeder is the high point? 3) When you performed your last bleed, were there any air bubbles coming out? I recently replace all my brake lines/hoses and rear calipers, and the entire system went dry and stayed that way for over a month while waiting for and then installing the new brake lines. I used a Motiv power bleeder and it removed most of the air in the system. I then did several bleeds, using the regular pattern (pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front) to get the last of the air out. I did a bench bleed of the master, while still on the car, by loosening the brake lines at the master cylinder and getting fluid to run out. Good luck on this.
10-25-2016, 06:28 AM
#5
Take a rubber dead blow mallet with you. Smack each caliper a couple times (not a steel hammer, you'll leave marks...you want the rubber hammer full of lead shot). Have you ever poured a glass of soda and seen the bubbles hanging on the side of the glass? Then when you bump that glass a bunch of bubbles release and float to the top. Same concept. Whack the calipers with a few solid hits and that will usually dislodge any bubbles that are clinging to the inside of the casting.
Also, to properly bleed some of the ABS modules, you may need to take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech II tool on it. They can tell the ABS to extend the pistons and force the air out so you can bleed it and then all should be well. (I don't know that anybody has come up with another way to do this yet).
Also, to properly bleed some of the ABS modules, you may need to take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech II tool on it. They can tell the ABS to extend the pistons and force the air out so you can bleed it and then all should be well. (I don't know that anybody has come up with another way to do this yet).
10-25-2016, 06:35 AM
#6
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Take a rubber dead blow mallet with you. Smack each caliper a couple times (not a steel hammer, you'll leave marks...you want the rubber hammer full of lead shot). Have you ever poured a glass of soda and seen the bubbles hanging on the side of the glass? Then when you bump that glass a bunch of bubbles release and float to the top. Same concept. Whack the calipers with a few solid hits and that will usually dislodge any bubbles that are clinging to the inside of the casting.
Also, to properly bleed some of the ABS modules, you may need to take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech II tool on it. They can tell the ABS to extend the pistons and force the air out so you can bleed it and then all should be well. (I don't know that anybody has come up with another way to do this yet).
Also, to properly bleed some of the ABS modules, you may need to take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech II tool on it. They can tell the ABS to extend the pistons and force the air out so you can bleed it and then all should be well. (I don't know that anybody has come up with another way to do this yet).
10-26-2016, 07:49 PM
#7
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Ok, problem has been resolved for those who are wondering the front calipers were upside down. This is because the bleeder was not facing upwards and causing the air to reach the upper portions and not getting bled. Much thanks to work buddies who have a good idea of their surroundings.
