I just saw that Amazon has them also! I was about to order from Rock, but I was not pleased with their shipping time. Having them arrive in less than 2 days from amazon is the best! Amazon is truely taking over the world lol

I'll be doing this upgrade as well, since my car was about to have to replace almost all stock components anyway. It's all shot from sitting for 4 years, (and abusing them, slide pin grease is once a century right?)

I'll post up how it goes for me too! Thanks dudes! Glad to be back alive in the community here.

Dave

 

Thanks for the clarifications on part numbers and interchangeability.

 

Quick question if anyone has time tonight. I'm trying to source some of the JL9 rotors in a jiffy. Amazon only has 1 rotor, and I cant wait 2 weeks for Rock Auto. Of course none of the local auto parts places carry anything onhand for the stingray. Anything not crazy priced, $150 or less per rotor. Any other hiddens places that will ship quickly without breaking the bank?

**EDIT** Ended up going with the DBA T3 4000's since they were on amazon for $155 each.

 

How tight are you guys tightening the caliper bolts on the ATS/c7 setups? GM calls for 162 ftlbs for those bolts and the c7 writeups I have found say the same. Seems to be REALLY high but I want to get those right.

 

Looks like you got some, but FWIW I just got C7 JL9 blanks from Napa. Generally anything they don't stock they seem to be able to get within a day, which is going to be faster than anything ordered online if you're in a rush. Amazon Prime though is pretty close.

 

That does seem high, but I double checked in the GM specs and you're right that it's 162 ft lbs. I didn't torque mine to anything specific, I just gave them a good hard tightening. Maybe I should have taken more care, but generally I only properly torque things like bearings and ball joints and wheels, where I want to get enough torque to hold them together, but there's a risk of over-torquing and wrecking something if I just "crank" on it.

But yes, I have access to the GM Service Info site, and it confirms 162 ft lbs, so that's what it's supposed to be.

The GM PN for those bolts is 11611085, which is an M14x2.0, 45mm long, grade 10.5 w/ loctite. If you don't want to pay $12+ each at the dealer I'm sure you can get a bolt with those dimensions and that grade or higher somewhere else for cheaper.

 

Thats great information that Napa can get them quickly. Amazon restock for the C7 JL9 blanks seems like a month til it restocks. I will keep this in mind, and I might see what the other local places say for time frames just for ***** and giggles later this weekend.

I just need to choose some pads now, and get some braided lines ordered. Calipers arrived today. They looks sweet.

 

I would definitely recommend Kore3 for the brake lines. I had a bad experience with another vendor for the hoses, but when I ordered from Kore3 they responded right away, shipped right away, and I got them very quickly. And the lines are great quality and fit properly .

 

Thanks for the confirmation. It just seemed crazy high to me lol. I ended up getting the bolts you mentioned and my dealer charged me like $4.67 or something each so I figured better there with the right bolts than just ones that fit from the hardware store.

 

Yea man, I just emailed them. See what happens!

 

Just finished my ATS Brembo swap yesterday and ran into a few issues. First is that the bleeder screws are seeping just a little bit of fluid. I have them tightened as tight as I feel comfortable tightening them but they still seep. The other issue is the pedal feel. I was expecting a much stiffer and more responsive pedal feel. I pulled the old fluid out of the master cylinder and replaced it with ATE TYP 200 fluid and bled with a Motive powerbleeder but it still feels kind of mushy like the stock brakes did. I used Kore3 stainless lines but only did the fronts due to time. The car stops just fine but not mind blowing like I expected the difference to be. Should I rebleed the fronts? Maybe I was expecting a little too much?

 

also have kore 3 lines. overbuilt in my opinion but super nice. better to be overbuilt than under bilt tho

 

NAPA lists the c7 rotors part # 48881612 (except HD brakes) and show them as $51 at cost each through my jobber pricing and $102list. They show about a dozen through their various distribution centers, and over 700 from the suppliers they work with.

 

Definitely sounds like you need to re-bleed. Mine are solid as a rock and pedal is right at the top. I took it to my mechanic buddy to safety and he commented on how awesome the brakes felt.

I'd recommend manually bleeding by pumping the pedal - I started out with a vacuum bleeder and it was not doing a good job. It would suck air in around the threads of the bleeders, even after I wrapped the bleeder threads in that white thread sealing tape. If you have fluid seeping out around the threads then you're definitely getting air back in - there's no way fluid can come out without air being able to get in.

Take the bleeders out and wrap them in thread tape and get them to seal properly, then bleed with a friend pumping the brake pedal. That should get any air out of the lines. I bought a vacuum bleeder for this job and I was really disappointed in how poorly it worked, and only found out after I did some online searching that this is a common issue.

 

These are the rotors I'm using, and I ordered them online and picked up by the end of the day. Also of note, NAPA (at least in Canada) sells the same parts at different prices at each location. It must be up to the owner to put whatever percent markup they want, because if I change from picking up at the closest store to me to the next closest, prices jump by like 20%. I believe I paid somewhere around $70-$80 each for these, so that "list" price might even be negotiable, and at the very least check online and change the store location to different ones to see who is cheapest.

 

Ohh yea, the pricing all depends on what kind of mark up they want to start with. I work for a local county government municipality here in Virginia so our pricing is based off volume and government contracts/ We do about $60k annually with out local NAPA between two locations. My old roommate used to work there as a counter guy and said the list is really just there for shops to base their mark up off of. If Joe blow off the street comes in and wants something, he'd place most things on shop accounts as COD vs charged at the end of the month. So pretty much, at all those parts places that deliver to the local garages, ask for a better price, they are available and most counter guys will gladly apply the pricing if you're not a dick head. Sounds like handyandy got decent pricing.

 

The bleeder I used was a pressure bleeder instead of a vacuum bleeder. From some research and a couple facebook posts I think the lack of pressure at the rears is due to the ABS block so I have some ABS delete parts on their way to me. The seepage has seemed to stop since I haven't driven it since Saturday night. I will put some miles on it this weekend and see if it happens again or if it was just residual.

 

 

Boosted52F, any concerns with running those on track? Looks like even the wheel weights will be awfully close. I just bought the orange FIFTY calipers on Ebay (ATS style), but am considering re-selling them and going with your same setup...but that looks SO close in the pictures. How big of a spacer did you use? My camaro is strictly a track and autox car.

 

I agree, that looks super close! Boosted, do you have any measurements on how close exactly they are? With the wheels and calipers being aluminum, and all of the joints in the wheel hub/braking system, I'd be worried that under heavy load you get a tiny bit of flex in something and start rubbing. I'm sure it wouldn't be the end of the world, but a little close for comfort for me.

Both the ATS / JL9 setup and the CTS-V setup have calipers with the same pistons/bore sizes, so they apply the same clamping force, but since braking torque=force*radius, those 355mm rotors should provide about 10% more braking torque than the 321mm rotors used in the ATS/JL9 setup. You just have to decide if that 10% is worth the headache of fitment to you and your application.