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Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

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Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 PM   #1
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Have a 95 trans am with 135k. Only suspension mod are boxed lower control arms. I have a set of Eibach Pro kit springs to put on. My dilemma is the shocks. They're ok but feel that I should swap them out. Found some takeoff Decarbons real cheap, also considering Koni Str.T and KYB AGX. The car is my DD. Won't see any track time and honestly not sure how much longer I'll keep it. With all that said, what would you do?
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:18 PM   #2
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My opinion for a purely street driven car (if you want to lower it): Swap those boxed lower arms (I'm guessing they have poly bushings) for some stock LCAs with new Moog bushings. Sell the pro-kit and get a set of better springs: Strano, BMR or UMI, then pick up a set of the konis.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the car is 22 years old and has a few miles, you should swap out front bushings and ball joints too.
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:25 PM   #3
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My opinion for a purely street driven car (if you want to lower it): Swap those boxed lower arms (I'm guessing they have poly bushings) for some stock LCAs with new Moog bushings. Sell the pro-kit and get a set of better springs: Strano, BMR or UMI, then pick up a set of the konis.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the car is 22 years old and has a few miles, you should swap out front bushings and ball joints too.
^this
Do it once, do it right.
If you think you are going to sell the car then don't mod it any more IMO as you wont get your money back.
If you are ok with the look of the stock ride height then don't lower it and just get some good shock (decarbons are never good shocks regardless of mileage).
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:27 PM   #4
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Better springs would be smart. But regardless of springs used, the best shock and value in shocks is what you want. That said it is important to realize that the springs mentioned with mine are all stiffer at one or both ends which means they want even more shock control. And some are shorter too, which means you need to damp more rate in a shorter amount of travel.... which again, means more shock requirement.

AGX's, warranty is void on lowered cars, and the they ride kind poorly when turned up for decent control. Note I do sell them, I just don't really recommend them.

STR.T's have a lifetime warranty with Koni service behind them. And now have a mail in rebate too. Less cost to start with and even more so with the rebate.

Take off deCarbon's... why? You already have used ones on the car (unless there is something else that's crappy on there).
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:08 PM   #5
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Better springs would be smart. But regardless of springs used, the best shock and value in shocks is what you want. That said it is important to realize that the springs mentioned with mine are all stiffer at one or both ends which means they want even more shock control. And some are shorter too, which means you need to damp more rate in a shorter amount of travel.... which again, means more shock requirement.

AGX's, warranty is void on lowered cars, and the they ride kind poorly when turned up for decent control. Note I do sell them, I just don't really recommend them.

STR.T's have a lifetime warranty with Koni service behind them. And now have a mail in rebate too. Less cost to start with and even more so with the rebate.

Take off deCarbon's... why? You already have used ones on the car (unless there is something else that's crappy on there).

DeCarbons are under $100 for all 4. i don't see me having this car more than 3 more years so not wanting to invest in it besides what's necessary. Found the heater hose mod so think I'm doing that instead of lowering springs.
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:14 PM   #6
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The problem with AGX shocks and struts is they are a performance option on a stock suspension. Designed to be used at the factory spring height and travel.

Do not install the eibach pro kit springs on your lt1. The springs do not hold up over time and have a much too soft spring rate. You'll love them for a year and hate them for life.
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 98MNBZ28 View Post
DeCarbons are under $100 for all 4. i don't see me having this car more than 3 more years so not wanting to invest in it besides what's necessary. Found the heater hose mod so think I'm doing that instead of lowering springs.
As someone who buys a new car every year 3 years is a long time. I still urge you to avoid the decarbons. Slap some bilsteins on there, replace your bushings and ball joints and be done. It'll be easier to sell with the better shocks and you'll enjoy it more for the next 3 years (who knows maybe you'll fall back in love with it).
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Old 03-02-2017, 03:29 AM   #8
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As someone who buys a new car every year 3 years is a long time. I still urge you to avoid the decarbons. Slap some bilsteins on there, replace your bushings and ball joints and be done. It'll be easier to sell with the better shocks and you'll enjoy it more for the next 3 years (who knows maybe you'll fall back in love with it).
Makes sense.
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Old 03-02-2017, 12:11 PM   #9
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DeCarbons are under $100 for all 4. i don't see me having this car more than 3 more years so not wanting to invest in it besides what's necessary. Found the heater hose mod so think I'm doing that instead of lowering springs.
Well, ok. But you get what you pay for. Actually you don't. Because again, if you have worn out deCarbon's replacing them with other deCarbon's that probably have miles (maybe they don't) doesn't seem smart to me unless they are far less mileage shocks and free.
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:03 PM   #10
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Well, ok. But you get what you pay for. Actually you don't. Because again, if you have worn out deCarbon's replacing them with other deCarbon's that probably have miles (maybe they don't) doesn't seem smart to me unless they are far less mileage shocks and free.
They're supposedly "takeoffs", so I guess a lot less than my 135k shocks. But as Blackandgold mentioned, I may choose to keep it by then so it may be best to get something that's a step up. I just moved to ATL area and these roads terrible compared to where I lived previously so once I get the car here and drive for a few weeks I'm sure it'll influence my decision. I've been eyeing the STR.t's. Whats the mail in rebate that you mentioned? Also, I have boxed lower control arms(welded). Should I replace with tubular as mentioned by another poster in this thread?
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Old 03-02-2017, 01:28 PM   #11
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Takeoff can mean anything, but more critically, it means they were taken off a car that came with them. There is no telling how many miles are on them, unless the seller tells you. And then you have to accept that as fact.

3 years is a long time to suffer with something that sucks.

The rebate is exactly that. Koni is offering a rebate on sets of 4 shocks. Mail in, doesn't run through me, isn't a discount.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:07 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 98MNBZ28 View Post
They're supposedly "takeoffs", so I guess a lot less than my 135k shocks. But as Blackandgold mentioned, I may choose to keep it by then so it may be best to get something that's a step up. I just moved to ATL area and these roads terrible compared to where I lived previously so once I get the car here and drive for a few weeks I'm sure it'll influence my decision. I've been eyeing the STR.t's. Whats the mail in rebate that you mentioned? Also, I have boxed lower control arms(welded). Should I replace with tubular as mentioned by another poster in this thread?
Boxed or tubular isn't the issue really, it's that poly bushings can bind and induce extra NVH. Some people love them, I'd prefer stock arms with 1LE bushings for a street car.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:09 PM   #13
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And that money can go to better shocks. Just saying, you'd be a lot happier with the ride and handling that way I think.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:46 PM   #14
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And that money can go to better shocks. Just saying, you'd be a lot happier with the ride and handling that way I think.
I see that Koni has a shocks and springs package for the STR.T setup. With the rebate that they're offering it'll be the same price as a set of just the SRT.T setup and your springs. You know anything about that shock and spring setup? I'm sure it'll be best to do springs since I'm doing shocks.
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Old 03-03-2017, 02:50 PM   #15
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They are Eibach springs which are not well loved. But I do sell that kit if you like, and if you want lowering springs it's certainly an option we offer.
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Old 03-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #16
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I just did a set of ours springs with Koni Str.T shocks on my own daily driver. It is amazing the difference it made. The car wasn't "bad" for an f-body to begin with, but the ride quality and response and overall feel of the car has improved dramatically. The car feels like it just floats down the highway, and transitions are barely felt. But when it gets thrown into a corner, the car is stable and confident feeling. IMO for a daily driver the Koni Str.T's are the best thing going right now. Pair that with a good set of springs such as ours, and you have a great combination that will perform well and ride well without spending a lot of money. With Koni's rebate, you can get into a full set of these shocks and our springs for right around $500
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Old 03-04-2017, 01:33 PM   #17
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I just did a set of ours springs with Koni Str.T shocks on my own daily driver. It is amazing the difference it made. The car wasn't "bad" for an f-body to begin with, but the ride quality and response and overall feel of the car has improved dramatically. The car feels like it just floats down the highway, and transitions are barely felt. But when it gets thrown into a corner, the car is stable and confident feeling. IMO for a daily driver the Koni Str.T's are the best thing going right now. Pair that with a good set of springs such as ours, and you have a great combination that will perform well and ride well without spending a lot of money. With Koni's rebate, you can get into a full set of these shocks and our springs for right around $500
What's the difference between the 2 lowering springs you offer besides the $40?
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Old 03-09-2017, 01:02 PM   #18
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What's the difference between the 2 lowering springs you offer besides the $40?
Probably just the spring rates, or layman's terms how stiff the springs are.

If you're asking because one says 93-97 fbody, the lt1 was a cast iron block and weighs more, and had a steel gas tank.

So for my 98 with an ls1 and steel gas tank I would want the soft front springs and the hard rear springs. I'm assuming that's why they have different part numbers, and also why they sell them in independent pairs

My prokit setup has the soft rear springs on my 98, *** bottoms out everywhere with the steel gas tank in it
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Old 03-09-2017, 04:57 PM   #19
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^ correct. the SP090 springs are higher rates more oriented towards an aggressive handling car than the SP001. The SP090 has rates of 725 and 210 where the SP001 has rates of 550 and 160. Honestly, the SP001 is much better suited for a daily driven car where ride comfort is priority over absolute lateral g's
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Old 03-09-2017, 06:33 PM   #20
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^ correct. the SP090 springs are higher rates more oriented towards an aggressive handling car than the SP001. The SP090 has rates of 725 and 210 where the SP001 has rates of 550 and 160. Honestly, the SP001 is much better suited for a daily driven car where ride comfort is priority over absolute lateral g's
Lateral G's >>> ride quality no matter the situation.
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