Powers00SS

Hello all, after my recent power bump courtesy of a procharger, I think it's time to upgrade my brakes. Car is a 2000 Camaro SS, stock 17" 10 spoke wheels, some engine mods, some suspension mods, no brake mods. I am wondering what mod would make the biggest difference. The three mods that I have in mind are: upgrading the pads, stainless steel brake lines, or a master cylinder brace. Keep in mind this car is mostly driven around town but I would like to take it to a track and want to get a little more bite than what I am getting right now. Other suggestions? Thanks!

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Unless you plan on making multiple hard stops from triple digit speeds, some aggressive pads, blank rotors and good fluid should be good enough.

Powers00SS

I was thinking the pads would be a good place to start. The lines and brace would improve feel but not the bite. Was just wanting some opinions from people who have done it. Which pads would be good for a mostly street car with some spirited driving? Is there a reason I need new rotors though? Is there a benefit to the aftermarket blank rotors?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Our C5 conversion kit is a pretty big improvement over stock
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/93-02-ws6store-f-body-c5-brake-conversion-kit/

Add in the stainless braided lines as well
W/o traction control
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_66_474&products_id=4798

With trac control
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_66_474&products_id=4478

Upgrade the back brakes with our slotted rpmspeed rotors and hawk hps pads and have no worries about your brakes

Powers00SS

As tempting as a C5 conversion kit is I think thats a bit more than I require or would like to get in to at this time lol. Thank you for the recommendations though.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

If that is too much, we do have quite a few options.

Rotors and pads
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_66_301&products_id=6356

Brake lines
Without tc
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-rpmspeed-stainless-steel-brake-lines-w-o-tract-control-/

With tc
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-rpmspeed-stainless-steel-brake-lines-with-tract-control-/

Youd be surprised at how much more firm and better your braking is with the line upgrade

Powers00SS

The brake pedal firmness was one of the reasons I was looking in to the M.C. brace and the lines. Having a relatively soft pedal when trying to come down from triple digits doesn't inspire a whole lot of confidence. I hear a lot of people using Hawks HPS pads. Is that the go to for a street pad?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Hps stands for high perf street

They are one of our most popular pads
We sell them in the c5 conversion kits for a good reason

For that then id look at just slotted rotors
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/93-02-f-body-rpm-speed-black-zinc-plated-rotors-all-4-/

Hps front
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_66_299&products_id=7045

Hps rear
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=235_66_299&products_id=7044

And the brake lines.

Getting all that together does qualify for free shipping and when you get em all together you can save $15 also.

Like i said we have MANY options, but honestly your master cyl is just fine, it works fine for all the wilwood upgrades etc, so itll be fine. Line flex takes away from the pressure and mechanical and thermal fade dont help either. Combat all of that with the complete kit.

Powers00SS

Any info on the difference between the HPS and the HPS 5.0?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

5.0 is the step up from the reg hps. The compound takes more abuse and heat without fade. The best street pad for the money. i forgot to add in the reg hps pads also.

Here they are
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-v6-hawk-performance-hps-pads-front-rear-save-/

We have a combo deal on them.

farmington

iTrader: (14)

using Hawk HPS pads. Like them. Stop better than stock and quieter than stock with about 75% less brake dust too. Nice firm pedal.

Powers00SS

Nice review. I see a lot of people complaining about the initial bite with HPS pads is less than OEM but the stopping power is more linear. Do you agree with that?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Here's a great write-up on pad selection discussing composition, attributes, common usage, etc.

https://www.essexparts.com/storage/w...e%20pads_3.pdf

Perhaps something like a Carbotech 1521 (comparable to G-Loc GS-1); or the CT AX6 or GLoc R6 if you need more fade resistance from repeated high speed stops at the expense of more frequent wheel cleaning and more noise. The guys at G-Loc are family members who split off from Carbotech. You could also look into a PFC Z-Rated, or a parts store brand with a DOT edge code of at least FF, preferably GG (Akebono ASP749, for example). I've never been a fan of Hawk ...never impressed with the balance of dusting and performance on street applications.

Assuming good tires to make use of the pads, you really don't need much more for what you're doing but there's always fluff to buy which may or may not be noticeable to you. Better pad composition will give you higher brake force than a minor rotor size increase, but it all stacks up and depends upon your long term goals. You don't need a C5/C6 conversion unless you're worried about caliper flex induced from open tracking the vehicle, but that conversion would expand pad compound selection. I would stick with plain, non-slotted, non-drilled inexpensive local parts store rotors. Use a brake fluid with a high wet boiling point if you don't plan to change the fluid very often (at least a few months), else choose one with a high dry BP (after every event or at least once a month). You don't want to get too aggressive on the rear pads else they might lock prematurely and cause the rear end to hop.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

We sell alot of the c5 conversions. Mostly because the stock pad size and rotor area isnt desirable for the people with double the stock power. Im not saying youve got to do wilwood either, but it is a huge improvement.

Like i said before though, a std slotted rotor would be fine and the hps pads as well. Not expensive, no grinding, just bolt on and go. A marked improvement in stopping power and less issues with mechanical and thermal fade.

ChrisSingh90

iTrader: (12)

If you drive aggressively, don't even think about keeping stock rotor size, slotted/drilled/hawk pads...they all don't matter when the stock rotor is too small to handle the heat of repeated aggressive stops.

When I say repeated, try doing more than 1 aggressive stop from 120, guaranteed the brakes are faded already.

Chris

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

You wouldn't just run into thermal pad fade but also thermal issues with the brake fluid ans brale lines.

That is why the stainless braided lines are a big step in getting better braking. Esp on brake lines that are 15yrs old to begin with.