blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

1997 Camaro Z28

Bought 12/5/2005 with 68,200 as it sits today it has 75,600ish

Motor wise I have - Pacesetter long tubes, pacesetter ory pipe, no muffler but custom turn down at the end of the driver's door, racetronix 255 pump, racetronix 255 pump harness wiring upgrade, TB bypass, airfoil, MSD OTVC wires, NGK TR55ix plugs, lingenfelter full length CAI, donkey dick 1LE elbow delete, under drive pulley, alt overdrive pulley. Haven't touched the motor as I wanted to get the basic bolt on's with a full suspension first.

All suspension parts are UMI and are on car single adjustable with poly + roto. Poly on body for smooth ride and roto on moving suspension part for best movement.

Here is what I have:

- 2 pt STB
- 2 pt weld in SFCs
- Full length adjustable torque arm
- automatic transmission TQ arm relocation kit
- Poly / Roto single adjustable LCAs
- Poly / Roto single adjustable PHB
- Front sway bar with endlinks + UMI HD billet alu brackets + blaine fab brackets
- Rear sway bar with endlinks + UMI HD billet alu brackets + new over the axle UMI heavy duty jaw calmp brackets
- LCA relocation brackets
- Driveshaft safety loop (tunnel mounted)
- TA performance girdle
- Motive 373 gears
- Richmond mega rear end rebuild kit, every new bushing, every new spider gear, all new timken bearings, every rear end seal replaced
- TA performance main bearings stud kit
- Strano springs
- Bilstein shocks
- NITTO NTO5R tires in the back

**When I did my shocks and springs I have all new upper and lower shock mounts, all new upper seats in the rear, spring seats in the front everything was completely replaced with all MOOG parts from rock auto to be completely fresh on the install.

The next things I was going to acquire would be:

UMI upper a arms (non) adjustable, UMI lower a arms adjustable with poly + roto, UMI aftermarket K-member.

Basically my goal is the following:

A "complete" UMI on car single adjustable suspension with Poly bushings for car connection and roto joints for the moving parts connection.

Car is driven maybe 500 miles a year or so.

Just for reference the car is street driven, limited track use and just a show car and weekend toy.

Thanks!

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Maybe get some slotted rotors? steel braided brake lines?

stp001

I would suggest looking at seats. Seats make a huge difference. Be honest with yourself though. Track seats look the coolest and fit like a glove, but do require a certain amount of "tuck and roll" to get in and out of. There are seats like Recaros and many more that are great compared to stock seats, but offer much easier "in and out". Good seats cost a little bit of money unfortunately. Name brand seats are about $400 and up, and I mean waaaay up. Even the E-bay replicas cost 3-400 each, which I have seen decent ones from that venue. Anybody who tells you good seats don't make a difference, is riding around on either stock seats or cheap seats.

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

For a non-raced or only occasional HDPE or no autocross, real race seats are way overkill. They transform the car from "get in and go" to "prep for a fighter jet takeoff" in my opinion. I have Sparco seats and I AX a lot. Getting in and out is kind of, well it takes time. You don't slip in, go for some Fritos at the corner store, and jump out. It seems like it made my car 200% more serious as a race car and getting in/out is not "easy" even with a tilt wheel. Not like the stock seats. I would not recommend them for what the OP says he does with the car.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

Seats would be huge along with a real steering wheel. With the right quick release it also solves the entry/exit problem. I wouldn't say front LCAs are really needed unless you just want them. Moog makes a good ball/socket bushing replacement for the rear of the stock one and poly works well in the front location.

TBH nothing for your use is a need. Having said that a Watts link is nice. Doubt you will notice a difference but it seems like you enjoy spending money.

Then wheels and better tires. Don't bother with 17s, there are no good tires in that size. Unless you want Hoosiers. Then I could sell you a turnkey set of CCWs with A7s

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys for all the inputs! I do enjoy spending money

The rims I have are the chrome SS 10 spokes.

I love the NTO5R's in the rear, not super interested ATM to get different rims, what tires would you suggest in the front as right now I have are kumho ecsta.

I know nothing is a "need" but what would finish my car to make it a completely on car adjustable UMI suspension?

I have heard front LCAs should NOT be poly + roto because the poly binds and breaks in the front is that true? I could easily go roto + roto in the front. Which is better boxed or tubular front lower a-arms. I'm assuming adjustable here would be a great benefit compared to having adjustable uppers?

Have also heard that upper a-arms are not needed, but for $250 which isn't much I can get brand new ones up front. Now would adjustable upper a arms IF I'm not into much AX but of any benefit? I live in Nebraska so no back roads to go whip around, pretty flat around here. Also of the driving is cruising Friday and Saturday nights. Street pulls those sorts of things?

I know UMI make a Derlin upgrade replacement for the front steering, is that worth it to help tighten things up?

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

For the front arms there is nothing wrong with poly on the front bushing only, that's what I'm running. In the rear of the arm I am running stock rubber purely because of rules otherwise I would be running a spherical. If you were to try running poly in the rear of that arm then it would be bad news.

Upper arms are nice because of the increased camber and caster you can get. No need for adjustable. If I want it I can get -3.5 or so camber and +6 caster.

I did the delrin steering rack upgrade and I like it. Couldn't tell you how much better it is though since I did everything else at the same time, but along with all the other fresh bushings (and the toe out) the on-center response is instant

Spamfritter

iTrader: (1)

I hate the look of racing seats. I like them from a performance standpoint but they never match the look and feel of the interior and are always out of place. The only ones I really like are the 6LE seats that can be ordered with stock style stitching so they look like they belong in the car. If it's a track car, by all means replace the seats with something functional. If it's mostly a street or show car, I think refurbished factory seats or something like the 6LE's would be better.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Was thinking these for the front lower a-arms:

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=543

Was thinking these for the upper front a-arms:

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=173

Steering:

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...oducts_id=1074

K-Member:

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=174

The road race version looks better and more strong, would that be of any benefit?

I'm assuming the front lowers I listed are adjustable?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Years ago, I read that using both adjustable upper and (especially) lower a-arms made alignments a real hassle, that's primarily the reason I've avoided them. Sometimes all adjustability does is make things more complicated, but recently I've been revisiting aftermarket lower/upper arms and k-member to save weight.

For UMI front lower arms, you listed PN 2306, which is not listed as adjustable. If you definitely want adjustable lower arms, the only UMI non-drag adjustable arms listed are boxed using heim joints (2309) or roto-joints (2312). Heim might be fine at the top of the shock, but I wouldn't use it at the bottom on anything but a track (meaning road race track, not drag strip) car due to additional NVH. If you don't need an adjustable lower arm and aren't going to road race track it, I'd say save the weight and get a non-adjustable tubular arm.

I'd also think all you need is the non-adjustable uppers. The RR k-Member adds additional gussets which adds a little weight for road race duty. It's stronger than the non-RR version, but may be overkill for your needs. My personal concern with a non-OEM k-member is losing the built-in skid plate on the k-member.

Other suspension items I don't see listed since you have a hole burning in your pocket

Watts Link or Lowered panhard bar kit
rear adjustable spring seats to corner balance the car (assuming the new front shock assembly you installed are adjustable coilovers), or rear adjustable coilovers if you don't need to worry about competition rules
de-coupled torque arm
Double rod-ended panhard bar (rod ends at the end of the bar, not in the middle)

Ultimately, it's your money to match your goals. I can't be a hypocrite when I'm budgeting for Penske coilovers & an AP Racing BBK.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

They are an absolute bargain for what they are. There is no way any off-the-shelf damper would handle bumps so well with a 3.0Hz ride frequency.