ABS sensor removal from front hub?
08-25-2017, 10:36 AM
#3
They typically outlast the hub. The stock hubs seem to last 75K miles before getting into a problem zone. Aftermarket repair parts seem that they may be more durable.
So... if you have miles on the part, you shouldn't feel bad about having to replace your hubs.
So... if you have miles on the part, you shouldn't feel bad about having to replace your hubs.
08-25-2017, 02:55 PM
#4
The purpose of removal of the ABS speed sensor is to make it easier to drill and tap new holes on the hub to accept longer 1/2"-20 studs, screw in type.
Fortunately I have a competent machinist doing the work that will find a way to do it and index it properly so that the studs are all straight.
Fortunately I have a competent machinist doing the work that will find a way to do it and index it properly so that the studs are all straight.
08-26-2017, 07:02 AM
#5
The purpose of removal of the ABS speed sensor is to make it easier to drill and tap new holes on the hub to accept longer 1/2"-20 studs, screw in type.
Fortunately I have a competent machinist doing the work that will find a way to do it and index it properly so that the studs are all straight.
Fortunately I have a competent machinist doing the work that will find a way to do it and index it properly so that the studs are all straight.
08-26-2017, 10:07 AM
#6
Have you considered getting rebuildable, heavy duty hubs instead of using the stock hubs?
They would be much more expensive, but...
- You would not loose your investment in the studs every time you trash your hubs (These rebuildable hubs would last you a lifetime.)
- The rebuildable hubs can be ordered with screw-in studs (so you'd save some expense there)
- Your car and its mods may actually make a good case for the upgraded hubs
They would be much more expensive, but...
- You would not loose your investment in the studs every time you trash your hubs (These rebuildable hubs would last you a lifetime.)
- The rebuildable hubs can be ordered with screw-in studs (so you'd save some expense there)
- Your car and its mods may actually make a good case for the upgraded hubs
08-26-2017, 06:08 PM
#7
Have you considered getting rebuildable, heavy duty hubs instead of using the stock hubs?
They would be much more expensive, but...
- You would not loose your investment in the studs every time you trash your hubs (These rebuildable hubs would last you a lifetime.)
- The rebuildable hubs can be ordered with screw-in studs (so you'd save some expense there)
- Your car and its mods may actually make a good case for the upgraded hubs
They would be much more expensive, but...
- You would not loose your investment in the studs every time you trash your hubs (These rebuildable hubs would last you a lifetime.)
- The rebuildable hubs can be ordered with screw-in studs (so you'd save some expense there)
- Your car and its mods may actually make a good case for the upgraded hubs
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08-27-2017, 07:08 PM
#10
If you occassionally race or AX, sooner or later you'll need new hubs. Any reason to use 1/2 instead of M12?
Your hub options eventually come down to: The Hoosier PE parts you referenced, or Corvette C5 hubs (SKF x-tracker heavy duty race version) with adapter plates to fit onto Fbody spindles.
Autocrossers have been chewing up Timken/replacement hubs for years and we finally get tired of throwing out $100 hubs from once a year to a couple times a year. I've gone with the C5 hub/adapter plate solution and it's been great. Hoosier PE also sells C5 hubs with M12 ARP long studs installed.
Your hub options eventually come down to: The Hoosier PE parts you referenced, or Corvette C5 hubs (SKF x-tracker heavy duty race version) with adapter plates to fit onto Fbody spindles.
Autocrossers have been chewing up Timken/replacement hubs for years and we finally get tired of throwing out $100 hubs from once a year to a couple times a year. I've gone with the C5 hub/adapter plate solution and it's been great. Hoosier PE also sells C5 hubs with M12 ARP long studs installed.
08-29-2017, 11:04 AM
#12
If you occassionally race or AX, sooner or later you'll need new hubs. Any reason to use 1/2 instead of M12?
Your hub options eventually come down to: The Hoosier PE parts you referenced, or Corvette C5 hubs (SKF x-tracker heavy duty race version) with adapter plates to fit onto Fbody spindles.
Autocrossers have been chewing up Timken/replacement hubs for years and we finally get tired of throwing out $100 hubs from once a year to a couple times a year. I've gone with the C5 hub/adapter plate solution and it's been great. Hoosier PE also sells C5 hubs with M12 ARP long studs installed.
Your hub options eventually come down to: The Hoosier PE parts you referenced, or Corvette C5 hubs (SKF x-tracker heavy duty race version) with adapter plates to fit onto Fbody spindles.
Autocrossers have been chewing up Timken/replacement hubs for years and we finally get tired of throwing out $100 hubs from once a year to a couple times a year. I've gone with the C5 hub/adapter plate solution and it's been great. Hoosier PE also sells C5 hubs with M12 ARP long studs installed.
Drilled and tapped with a touch of red loctite. They came out great!
