BlackSS4thgen

For the guys cutting low 1.2's and high 1.1x's can you guys share some of your info!
I am nearly a light year away from a good chassis shop up here in northern michigan. So I do all of my own work.
I have a turbo camaro. I have cut between 1.28-1.33 60's on mediocre tracks with 153-155 mph trap worth of power.
I recently turned the car up to 174mph traps and I cant get the car to work at all anymore. I have been told to ditch the 2 year old viking da's which may be partial to the case. But I feel like I am missing something.

My lca's are in the bottom hole of the quick performance 9". I have approx -1 to -2 lca angle running downhill towards the axle.
Ive tried -1 to -3 pinion angle.
Every shock adjustment possible.
shifted weight a bit.

The car is 3,250 with me. Iron block and air to water cooler up front. I have seen several others with the same similar weight distribution so I know it can work. Not ideal I know but ...

I have been told a few times now that my car is just too low and I need more lca angle.

Any tips would be great! Thanks

BlackSS4thgen

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I can't offer you any good advice, but if you do upgrade from the Vikings let me know!

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

What is the date on the tires?

Tuskyz28

What is a solid upgrade over vikings ?

BlackSS4thgen

I see a lot of 1.15-1.20 guys using the afcos or menscer.

BlackSS4thgen

Ill have to double check when I head home for lunch. I purchased them through Atech in august. I am assuming they arent very old.
I had maybe 12-13 passes on them before I turned the car up. A few burnouts maybe twice as long as they should have been. Its just weird. I had to car hooking and then blowing the tires off a few feet out. Found out the tq arm was bashing off from the body. Excited I raised everything back up and assumed thats what it was. Unfortunately after raising the car I beleive it was worse on the line. IT did handle the power down track better though no doubt.
It has to be something I am doing wrong. I cant remember if it was you I was speaking with in another thread but the vikings were working on another guys car running 8.3x@164 range.
I went and tested the car on lower power about 128mph 1/8 range and I still only managed a 1.40-1.41
I was ramping in boost, ramping in timing. Tire pressure all over. Shock settings all over. Nothing really worked. Im not sure what I am missing but it has to be something. I know a lot of guys doing phenominal with less.
Ive set up other guys cars and they have 1.2-1.30 with 3 way comp eng. shocks lol

BlackSS4thgen

Here is on a 50-60% throttle leave at zero psi of boost. A fe feet out when I knew itd hold Id hammer it. Boost is limited to 19.5 psi at 5k rpm and ramps to 24.5 at 6,500
Timing is 9 degrees below 6,000 and comes back to 13 degrees up top. 11.7-11.8 afr

BlackSS4thgen

Here is all of the same boost control and tune settings trying to leave on 7 psi of boost.

BlackSS4thgen

This was last year with a little different setup. Car cut a 1.31 in this video which isnt phenominal but carried the tires for about 40 feet about 8-10 inches off the ground. I shifted 1-2 while in air and the front dropped. I know that wasnt phenominal but seemed to be decent. Especially compared to now.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

What do you tune your car with?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Just after watching the videos that has little to nothing to do with traction but can help in other ways. Put your button on your steering wheel and leave with both hands on the wheel to help tone down the left hand pulling a little to the left at launch. It's natural for the body to do that and at your speed an air shiftier would be great
so you can always have both hands on the steering wheel.

That is just a personal suggestion and let me know about the date code.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

As for the torque arm hitting the floor, with that rear end you will always have to deal with that issue. We just had a car in the shop that we had to cut the floor out so they could achieve the ride height they wanted. We have sold a few of our race arms and crossmembers to go with that housing but some labor to the housing is required.

I'm still a firm believer you need an adjustable pivot link. You have zero adjustments for IC on your vehicle so you are expecting everything else to compensate for it. This is why our pivot links have multiple holes in them, if it wasn't needed we wouldn't do it.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Do you have vids of the car launching from the outside? That will tell much more of the story than the in-car.

BlackSS4thgen

I am running an Ms3 Evo.

BlackSS4thgen

Here is the most recent. Before I raised the car it would plant very hard and then unload about 40 feet out. I now have it worse on the line.

BlackSS4thgen

BlackSS4thgen

BlackSS4thgen

BlackSS4thgen