hourang

iTrader: (6)

what about insurance? wouldnt it be more money for the sport classes?

TTopJohn

Well, my rear rotors were OE factory intalled ones until last week. Replaced them with Aimco's, and the hub section looked to be the same as the old stockers. But I'll check the thread engagement on the lug nuts, thanks for the tip.

TTopJohn

The sport package for the S class is ground effects and bigger wheels. Probably no insurance penalty.

The E and CLK classes are cheaper cars than the S Class, so they are probably cheaper to fix and therefore cheaper to insure.

Bottom line - the S class doesn't start to attract anyone sport minded until you A) equip it with the sport package or B) step up to one of the bigger engined models (S500, S600, S55, etc...)
The fact that mercedes, who doesn't generally use cross drilled rotors or attract a sporty customer in their S class line, bothered to spec cross drilled rotors for the S430 tells me that there must be some benefit. I'd like to find out what it is.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I still think that you are chasing a "shadow". Porsche puts them on the 911, we accept that buyers of that car will "expect" to have drilled rotors. Same for many others, but we question Mercedes use of the same thing? I agree, that it seems an unlikley combo for such a car, but I don't suspect any magic bullet.

Maybe I'll fire off an E-mail to Mercedes NA tonight and ask them about it.

Who knows, could be fun.

glitch77

They will just give you the old "reduces heat" spiel that everone else does. You know that.

Velocity

I used "search"

I need a brake job - bad pulsating at slower speeds...

I wanted to give the brakes a nice upgrade from stock just for good measure... so what I've learned here is that paying extra for cross-drilled rotors won't give me any benefit besides the "bling" factor... is that right? I should just get a basic brake job done at the local tire and brake shop?

Why does the C6 Z06 have cross-drilled rotors?

VIP1

No.
Its easy enough to do yourself (and much cheaper that way too).

Bling.

Here is a thread for more info:
(one of many)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html

Here is my setup:
(Bought from TireRack for for $374 and change shipped.)
Brembo OEM blank rotors
Hawke HPS pads

Velocity

Thanks for the link, good info. I'm glad I know that it's just bling now so that I can get something better.

As for doing the brake job myself... brakes are too important for me to do that myself, so I am defintiely taking it to a shop.

Brembo blanks is what I am looking for, huh? OEM pads, or are Hawk pads a nice upgrade?

Any advice is appreciated... I'm a real brake n00b.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

Arent the Porsche Rotors CAST with the holes in them? cast is stroner than drilling the rotor and weakening them.

gwj

I have power slots on the front, didn't take me long to get stress fractures in the rotors. Granted, there were a couple of high speed braking instances, and I assume the heat was incredible. Overall, the power slots have held up better than the stockers as far as warping. On another note, GM has revised pads (at least for the front) that work very well for me, very minimal, if any, dusting, unlike the stock Y2K pads. They hold up as well as the Hawk pads I had, if a little pricier.
Note: I don't claim to be a brake expert. I just know what works for me.

Joker

Everyone I have talked to personally regarding slotted and drilled rotors hates them except for the bling factor. The most common complaint is cracking and increased frequency of brake pad replacement.

From what I've gathered, the companies sell lots of them because they can use the arguement that if they sucked why are they on race cars and people will spend the bucks. I'd say use larger blanks with great pads on bigger calipers, like a ZO6 rotor/caliper combo with a stainless brake line kit. If that can't stop you in a short amount of time, what will? That's what I was planning to put on mine once I get the bigger wheels to accommodate them.

VIP1

Brembo blanks are the same size as the stockers. They just resist warping better.

Hawk HPS pads are a bit of an upgrade over stock, not dramatic, but an upgrade none-the-less.

SEARAYH20-ski

Also don't forget about YOUR DOT value ( Brake Fluid )
going up doesn't hurt
WENT with HAWK HPS myself.
like said above alittle better . I Really didn't want much noise or dust;
there are compromises. Its kinda like your bling factor with Rotor selection.
The faster you stop usally means more noise and dusting with a preformance style type pad. I could be wrong.

VIP1

That is a whole other subject itself. Do a search on here and you should find some info on that subject.
Here are a few links:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=brake+fluid
(There are more threads)

Yeah. Race pads will eat up the rotors, make more dust, and make more noise.

The HPS pads are not a race pad though. The "S" means "Street".