SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

Tight, a bit rough/noisy as you would expect from a rod end joint suspension. The limited amount of seat time I have in it, I like it and I can't wait to really try it out. I have been out of the country on business for the past 2 months so I haven't been able to put any miles on it. When I get back I have to finish up a h/c/i install before I can drive it and I don't have much time before I'll be gone again for 2+ months.

Yes, I have a front/rear C6 Z06 brake setup that I will be installing.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

You'll get different opinions on this, and much of it has to do with driver preference and application; for non-drag use, you typically want the rear arm angle very close to level. I snagged the following from the FRRAX site.

In a nutshell:

Slightly lower at the front will improve stability by inducing roll understeer. This is the usual situation on a car that has been lowered without relocation brackets.

Slightly lower at the rear will reduce stability by inducing roll oversteer. It will add anti-squat, which helps the car "hook up" under power. anti-squat becomes anti-lift when braking, which can induce or aggravate brake hop. This helps with bite on corner exit, and if you choose this route 5-8* down at the rear axle has been recommended for non-drag use. If your car is more drag oriented, the angle recommendation will likely be higher.

A little roll understeer is better than roll oversteer. These misleading terms have nothing to do with understeer or oversteer. Think of roll oversteer as "positive" feedback, which is kind of like audio feedback in a PA system. Roll understeer is "negative" feedback. This is what the noise-canceling headphones use. Negative feedback (within reason) is a lot more stable.