SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

I thought I would share my suspension upgrade here. I recently upgraded my entire suspension on my 2000 Trans Am. I completed it about 4 months ago but due to my job I have not been around much to drive it much. Anyway here it is.

Components - Front Suspension:
Spohn Upper and Lower A-arms with DelSphere Joints
Moog Upper Ball Joints
BMR Swaybar
UMI Swaybar mounts
Spohn Rod End Swaybar Links
Koni Shocks
BMR Springs
Spohn Tubular K-member
Prothane Motor Mount Bushings

Components - Rear Suspension:
BMR Stock Length Adjustable Torque Arm
BMR Torque Arm Relocation Mount
Prothane Transmission Mount
Midwest DSL
Spohn Rear Control Arms with DelSphere Joints
BMR Control Arm Lowering Brackets
Spohn Panhard Rod with DelSphere Joints
BMR Sway Bar
UMI Sway Bar Brackets
Koni Shocks
BMR Springs
Hawks Bump Stops



Front Suspension

Here's what I started with.


Spindle Removed


I broke one of the wheel sensor connectors on the hub so I had to replace it.


Front shock assembly removed as well as the front sway bar. The only thing being reused here will be the upper control arm mount.


Here are the upper control arm mounts.


What's left after. Then I removed the rack and pulled the K-member.








Motor mounts out and taken apart. I cleaned them up a little with a wire wheel.




I sent the motor mount shells, upper control arm mounts and spindles to the local powdercoater.




K-member installed






Continued below.

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

The shock towers had some rust so I cleaned them up with a brush to knock the loose rust off, gave them a shot of rust converter, primer and some black paint I had on hand.










Assembled the shocks, springs and new upper shock mounts and the upper control arms to the upper control arm mounts. Also installed upper ball joints.






Somewhere around here pictures became an after thought so here is the assembled front suspension.










Continued below.

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

Rear Suspension

FYI, I performed a carrier and gear change while doing this install so if there are any pictures with the diff disassembled that's why.

Panhard bar and sway bar removed.


I had some old BMR control arms on it that a friend gave me. They are going to be replaced.


Shocks bolted in to the upper mounts.


Control arms, control arm brackets and springs installed.




Bump stops installed. I found out later that I bought the wrong ones.


Swaybar and end links installed.


Transmission relocation mount and trans mount installed.


Torque Arm installed.




I guess I didn't get a picture on the parhard bar installed. Doesn't matter, I've decided to ditch the PHB and install a Midwest watts link anyway. That will come soon.

I didn't get a good shot of the car before I started this project. Thats pretty common with me, I get focused on something and forget about documentation. Here is a shot of the car on my trailer that shows the typical 4x4 f-body and an after shot.






The stock wheels are on it for now but I have some CCW SP505a's that are going on it eventually.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Did you remove the steering rack bolt or did you bring down the rack down with the k-member ?
So what gear ratio and carrier did you change to ?

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

I lifted the motor enough to get the bolt out and removed the rack before pulling the K-member. When I reinstalled the K-member I forgot to put the bolt in before bolting down the motor and motor mounts so I ended up using a cap screw installed upside down for now.

I installed an Eaton HD carrier and 4:10 gear set.

taman86

iTrader: (19)

How does the car feel now after all that. You pretty much duplicated my idea with the sway bars.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (12)

Can you get some pics of the MWC driveshaft loop? I think that's the one I want but want to see some pics on a lowered car before I order it.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Nice job! It's really great to see another pair of DeCarbons leaving this earth.

When you removed the K-Member, was that single jack stand sufficient to hold the engine in place and keep it from falling? Did you have anything else rigged up to keep it from moving around? (I have a bend K-Member that needs replacing sometime soon and a lift similar to yours.)

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

Keep in mind, I haven't been able to drive the car a lot because I'm out of the country on business so much and when I have driven the car, I've been babying it while breaking in the gears. That said, the car just feels solid, like no sway. I like it a lot and I can't wait to drive it a bit more spirited and see how it works. I need to get the new (to me) wheels on it too.

It's not for everyone though. As most know these types of joints and poly mounts do bring in NVH. That's not a concern for me. I plan to take steps to cut down on that eventually when I re-work the interior.


I don't have any pics of the ground clearance right now. I can get some but it will be a while. I am out of the country on business until the first week of July. I assume you want to see it with exhaust so that will take some time too as the engine is torn down to the short block right now for a H/C/I install and the exhaust system has been completely removed.


Thanks. Yes that jack stand is the only thing holding up the drive train. It is a beefy one though and has a wide base for stability. It is an OTC Stinger 2 ton stand. Here is what it looks like.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Looks good! One thing that is kind of hard to see and I want to clarify is that you also installed the inner isolators int he top of the shock mounts for the front. There should be a small triangular shaped piece that sits inside the upper mount cup. Its hard to tell from the pic if it is there or not but the amount of threads showing on the shock is what is making me ask this.

I normally recommend to support the engine from the top side before disassembly to make your life easier. If you have a strut tower brace, you can use that, if not a piece of 2x4 or similar cut to length to sit across the top of the strut towers works well. You can use a heavy duty ratchet strap around the engine up to this support to keep the engine in place while working underneath without having and jacks or stands in your way of working

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, I caught that after that picture was taken. They are installed.

95wannabe

iTrader: (20)

Whats the purpose of this piece & are they necessary.?
Mine are shot

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I have the same model. They are very handy in and out of the garage!


Excellent tip - thank you!

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

They are absolutely necessary. I have seen people install their shocks/springs without them and in very short time they will rip the center sleeve out of the middle of the upper mount. The inner isolator distributes the load of the shock across the inner structure of the upper mount instead of concentrating it to the stud. You can see it pictured below



and should look like this installed

bubbaflaat

Looks nice, wondering why you went with the rear lower control arm relocation brackets? All the research I've done has shown that they are mainly for drag racing type application and not a handling oriented setup. Everything I've read says the higher control arm angle could induce more over steer?

one sweet ws6

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

You had the k member down but did you think about long tube headers? it would have been a perfect time for those.

SidewaysTA

iTrader: (11)

They are BMR's springs. 1.25" lower I think.


Long tube headers were installed. I just didn't include any pics of them since this is the suspension forum.

one sweet ws6

one sweet ws6