When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, this is a great thread! A special thanks to handyandy for his instructions. Install went well, and the car stops SO MUCH BETTER! Here are a few pics - one of each front, one of the rear, and for fun, an under hood pic showing the little screaming chicken decals I got in homage to the transplanted Trans Am spindles.
I saw that you used a 15mm spacer - were you able to safely use the stock wheel studs?
I am looking for a 4-piston brake upgrade that will fit behind ZR1 wheels while not having to replace the stock wheel studs.
Ok, so heres a bit more info on the wheel studs to help those that have simular wheels.
I installed some ARP 1007708 that are 1.5" longer but dont lwt that fool you, its more like an inch of actual usable thread as it goes ALL THE WAY up the stud, unlike the stocks. I thought i was good with my stock ones woth thin spacers, man was i wrong. Probably only has about half the threads engaged on the lugnut to the stud.
Bottom line up front..get longer ones, even if you don't think you need one. Using the ARP 100-7708 $39.00 on amazon. I have this 1/4" spacer but i think im gonna add thicker ones to push my wheels further out from under fender, hence why i got the longer 7708s. Also using thing installer tool to save from earing threads and allows me to leave the rotor on too. Used some old open style lugnuts i had layong around, and glad i did, perfer these on over the closed ones i have. Need some new anodized lugs later. Install tool has a roller bearing to help turn and save from destroying the face of the rotor. Old studs. Used an old lugnut and a trusty ballpean hammer to tap them out. Rotate the stud your gonna smack to the front to easily slip the old one and new one back in and out of there. Heres the stock stud next to the new longer ARP studs. After the old stud is hammered out, slide the tool over the top of the stud, and run the lugnut on it. Make sure the rotor is centered so it doesnt catch the rotor. If your just installing it on the wheel hub itself, no worries. After all the new studs are installed and spacer. Look how small the old stud looks. Its almost not as long as the new ones installed on top of the rotor lol All the lugnuts tightend down with the open lugnuts. The studs poke out just a couple threads. Might be able to get away with caps if i can find some lol Heres a look at the stock stud with an open lugnut... i was very misten on how much thread was present inside the lug. Whats worse is where youbsee the end of the stock stud, its not even engaging any threads, so half or less of the lug is actually tighened on the stock stud. So my suggestion is to just get the alightly longer studs. Gives you more options for wheels and spacers, while also giving you stronger wheel studs woth more thread engagement to boot.
08-17-2024, 10:36 PM
