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What I have is a 2000 z/28 auto and I decided to upgrade the suspension after thinking I had a fuel pump issue. Turns out it was the vats. In the future I plan.on a K member with tubular uppers/lowers. Just wanted to hear feedback from everybody on what they think of it so far. I'm wanting the car to run down the track and can also run tail of the dragon with no problems. I want the car to do it all. Thanks everybody.
Founder's STB
Founder's lower control arm extreme joint
Founder's adjustable panhard bar/relocation kit
Founder's adjustable torque arm
Founder's relocation brackets
Hawks Sinister weld in subframe connectors
Strano lowering springs
Strano sway bars
Koni Str.t shocks/struts
Monroe 904962
Upper strut mounts
Russell stainless brake hoses
UMI bump stops
Just a lid and deleted all of the smog. I have a set of TSP 1 3/4 longtubes sitting in the house right now. Planned on going with their ORY and cat back. Thought of true duals but I'm worried about clearance with my driveway so I scrapped that idea. H/C/I is definitely in the future.
Thanks man. The car only had 26k on it when I picked it up so I didn't want to chop into it hence why the upgrades on the rear suspension. I talked with a guy a lot smarter then me that had all of the knowledge, tools and time to drop the rear end for the pump. We had already discussed pricing on putting it in so I did it anyway. Put a racetronix pump in with all of the wiring upgrades. Planning for the future mods.
Lowering the car in conjunction with relocating the body side of the panhard bar to a lower position will almost surely mean that the panhard bar angle will be far from optimal. I did that and wound up with a panhard bar angle like this:
You can buy a relocation bracket from UMI (http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...oducts_id=1036) or you can make your own if you have a welder. I made my own and restored it's intended angle. I went a little less than 4". It's sitting at 2° now but I'll be raising the rear 1/2" or so anyway.
over the axle and underside, lowered panhard and lowered custom support bar.
Originally Posted by tibo
Lowering the car in conjunction with relocating the body side of the panhard bar to a lower position will almost surely mean that the panhard bar angle will be far from optimal. I did that and wound up with a panhard bar angle like this:
You can buy a relocation bracket from UMI (http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...oducts_id=1036) or you can make your own if you have a welder. I made my own and restored it's intended angle. I went a little less than 4". It's sitting at 2° now but I'll be raising the rear 1/2" or so anyway.
seriously?? There is an axle side bracket that lowers that side and it should be even, or close to it. You either threw it out or they shorted you a bracket
*edit - I see the product you are talking about. That is an incomplete kit for one, purpose being only to make room for exhaust is stupid by itself because it negatively affects suspension. When lowered properly (on BOTH sides) it is good for handling and room for exhaust is just a bonus. Plus that bent support bar should be straight.
Here's mine, Unbalanced Engineering relo kit with their panhard. I made the support bar with DOM and the exhaust is single 3.5". I could have gone lower with the support mount if I needed more room.
Last edited by mikedamageinc; 08-21-2018 at 07:14 AM.
What I have is a 2000 z/28 auto and I decided to upgrade the suspension after thinking I had a fuel pump issue. Turns out it was the vats. In the future I plan.on a K member with tubular uppers/lowers. Just wanted to hear feedback from everybody on what they think of it so far. I'm wanting the car to run down the track and can also run tail of the dragon with no problems. I want the car to do it all. Thanks everybody.
Founder's STB
Founder's lower control arm extreme joint
Founder's adjustable panhard bar/relocation kit
Founder's adjustable torque arm
Founder's relocation brackets
Hawks Sinister weld in subframe connectors
Strano lowering springs
Strano sway bars
Koni Str.t shocks/struts
Monroe 904962
Upper strut mounts
Russell stainless brake hoses
UMI bump stops
Let's see where to start. First, should mention I have rubber bumpstops. And that I am a UMI dealer too. One of the first ones, and in the top 10 despite being very small business here, just Desiree and I. Additionally I can make a package deal for you, saving a few bucks maybe even enough to get you to swap to UMI stuff from me instead. But I can only do that base on the list I see here, can't do it on onesie, twosie quantities.
Maybe more important is we can discuss what to do and why. If you relocated the PHB you want to do both sides lest it end up crooked which makes the asymmetry of a PHB even worse. I would go with a different brand brake like kit, probably Goodridge, but I sell Russell too. I'd recommend a Master Cylinder brace for sure, which should work with a Founders STB should you go that way given it's, similarity. to the UMI.
And on a K which seems to be down the road, there is no way I'd do any single cross tube K, let alone one that doesn't have the ability to lock the camber and caster from sliding. I.E. I think there is only one choice here for sure.
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I just recieved your master cylinder brace from FedEx today. I really liked the umi stuff as well but I found a lot of good reviews on the quality and pricing of the Founder's so I decided to go with just about everything they offered. I'm pretty happy with where it's at right now but I'm sure there will be more to come.