Best Replacement Caliper? Problems with AcDelco calipers @ Rockauto
#1
Best Replacement Caliper? Problems with AcDelco calipers @ Rockauto
2000 TA LS1 M6
~160k
Anyone have issues with replacement AcDelco caliper recently? I purchased Acdelco's remanufactured calipers, 18FR1583, 18FR1582 to replace my old tired (but functional) ones from Rockauto and I've been having nothing but problems. Aside from missing hardware on one of them, they were rebuilt very poorly. The caliper and bracket were obviously sandblasted and reconditioned, but the slider pins wouldn't move freely. When I removed them to investigate, they had a mix of old grease, sand blasting media, and new grease. Clearly there wasn't much attention to detail here, great! Both calipers and both pins were like this (see pics). After cleaning them out and installing them the drivers side unit hangs up noticeably and is starting to roast my pads? WTF?
I went through the warranty process with Rockauto and got a replacement, but the replacement isn't much better. I installed it as procedure expecting no problems, only to find a leak at my banjo bolt area later. When I looked closer as it turns out, the gasket surface on the replacement unit is sandblasted very raw, I cannot get any copper crush gasket/washer to seal on the surface without a slow leak from the caliper side of the gasket.
So, does anyone have the good recommendations for stock replacement calipers? The AcDelco units clearly have problems, if they're even different from the low end remans, and I don't know if I trust the new manufacture overseas units.
~160k
Anyone have issues with replacement AcDelco caliper recently? I purchased Acdelco's remanufactured calipers, 18FR1583, 18FR1582 to replace my old tired (but functional) ones from Rockauto and I've been having nothing but problems. Aside from missing hardware on one of them, they were rebuilt very poorly. The caliper and bracket were obviously sandblasted and reconditioned, but the slider pins wouldn't move freely. When I removed them to investigate, they had a mix of old grease, sand blasting media, and new grease. Clearly there wasn't much attention to detail here, great! Both calipers and both pins were like this (see pics). After cleaning them out and installing them the drivers side unit hangs up noticeably and is starting to roast my pads? WTF?
I went through the warranty process with Rockauto and got a replacement, but the replacement isn't much better. I installed it as procedure expecting no problems, only to find a leak at my banjo bolt area later. When I looked closer as it turns out, the gasket surface on the replacement unit is sandblasted very raw, I cannot get any copper crush gasket/washer to seal on the surface without a slow leak from the caliper side of the gasket.
So, does anyone have the good recommendations for stock replacement calipers? The AcDelco units clearly have problems, if they're even different from the low end remans, and I don't know if I trust the new manufacture overseas units.
Last edited by j498; 08-21-2018 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Added pics
#2
I'd also like to point out the exceptionally POOR customer service I received from RockAuto in trying to resolve this. I had to open a support ticket to trying figure out how to best handle a warranty claim on a warranty claim, only for them to accidentally open a warranty claim on a totally unrelated item, then offer canned copy and paste responses, with no clear direction for resolution. Then, when I tried emailing (they don't take calls) them back for clarification on the cluster situation they created and poorly explained, I got an automated email back saying "Your email could not be received because Ticket XXX has been closed".
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Over the past month I went through problems with my calipers also. I spent the extra $15 for NEW calipers from Raybestos. IMO worth the extra money. I got a set of reman calipers from the local AdvancedAuto that were junk. But, my Raybestos units NEVER shipped from RockAuto. I got a shipping # but then nothing. So I did get a refund. I bought them again from Summit Racing, and got them in a timely manner.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
its not hard to rebuild your own.....and you know the quality your getting
just redid mine....new seals ...new pistons...clean and paint.....getting the bracket REALLY clean where the pins are is a PITA.....that old crap does not want to come out....I use a pistol bore brush ( .45 ) and lots of brake cleaner
just redid mine....new seals ...new pistons...clean and paint.....getting the bracket REALLY clean where the pins are is a PITA.....that old crap does not want to come out....I use a pistol bore brush ( .45 ) and lots of brake cleaner
#5
TECH Addict
^^^ +1. rebuilding a caliper is a 2 banana job on the shade tree howler monkey scale..
I just strip them and use a can of carb dip to clean them..
You can buy ceramic pistons from several sources..
From some of the dirt track suppliers you can get heavy duty dust seals and internal seals as well.
I use 1000 grit emory paper to scrub the bore if it has any corrosion,
Also for rebuilt calipers the dirt track catalogs have some gems for nice stock premium rebuilt..
I just strip them and use a can of carb dip to clean them..
You can buy ceramic pistons from several sources..
From some of the dirt track suppliers you can get heavy duty dust seals and internal seals as well.
I use 1000 grit emory paper to scrub the bore if it has any corrosion,
Also for rebuilt calipers the dirt track catalogs have some gems for nice stock premium rebuilt..
#6
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
I'd also like to point out the exceptionally POOR customer service I received from RockAuto in trying to resolve this. I had to open a support ticket to trying figure out how to best handle a warranty claim on a warranty claim, only for them to accidentally open a warranty claim on a totally unrelated item, then offer canned copy and paste responses, with no clear direction for resolution. Then, when I tried emailing (they don't take calls) them back for clarification on the cluster situation they created and poorly explained, I got an automated email back saying "Your email could not be received because Ticket XXX has been closed".
For things like reman parts and other things that might not fit (suspension parts, non-OEM parts, etc.); I've taken to ordering online from local parts stores. This gives me a discount, usually I can go to a local brick-and-mortar store right away to pick up the pieces, and then I have a live human being (not always knowledgeable - but live; with a supervisor) to work with when things go wrong.
#7
Over the past month I went through problems with my calipers also. I spent the extra $15 for NEW calipers from Raybestos. IMO worth the extra money. I got a set of reman calipers from the local AdvancedAuto that were junk. But, my Raybestos units NEVER shipped from RockAuto. I got a shipping # but then nothing. So I did get a refund. I bought them again from Summit Racing, and got them in a timely manner.
its not hard to rebuild your own.....and you know the quality your getting
just redid mine....new seals ...new pistons...clean and paint.....getting the bracket REALLY clean where the pins are is a PITA.....that old crap does not want to come out....I use a pistol bore brush ( .45 ) and lots of brake cleaner
just redid mine....new seals ...new pistons...clean and paint.....getting the bracket REALLY clean where the pins are is a PITA.....that old crap does not want to come out....I use a pistol bore brush ( .45 ) and lots of brake cleaner
^^^ +1. rebuilding a caliper is a 2 banana job on the shade tree howler monkey scale..
I just strip them and use a can of carb dip to clean them..
You can buy ceramic pistons from several sources..
From some of the dirt track suppliers you can get heavy duty dust seals and internal seals as well.
I use 1000 grit emory paper to scrub the bore if it has any corrosion,
Also for rebuilt calipers the dirt track catalogs have some gems for nice stock premium rebuilt..
I just strip them and use a can of carb dip to clean them..
You can buy ceramic pistons from several sources..
From some of the dirt track suppliers you can get heavy duty dust seals and internal seals as well.
I use 1000 grit emory paper to scrub the bore if it has any corrosion,
Also for rebuilt calipers the dirt track catalogs have some gems for nice stock premium rebuilt..
I personally don't expect much from internet retailers when it comes to car parts. Amazon is much worse - although they have the scale and ability to just eat the sale. (I suspect on a large caliper order, even an Amazon might not also.)
For things like reman parts and other things that might not fit (suspension parts, non-OEM parts, etc.); I've taken to ordering online from local parts stores. This gives me a discount, usually I can go to a local brick-and-mortar store right away to pick up the pieces, and then I have a live human being (not always knowledgeable - but live; with a supervisor) to work with when things go wrong.
For things like reman parts and other things that might not fit (suspension parts, non-OEM parts, etc.); I've taken to ordering online from local parts stores. This gives me a discount, usually I can go to a local brick-and-mortar store right away to pick up the pieces, and then I have a live human being (not always knowledgeable - but live; with a supervisor) to work with when things go wrong.
I like doing the Advance Auto online order & discount code loophole, but they don't always stock the parts you need. If they do it's the auto-part version of Russian Roulette, at least for their in house brand calipers. Been through it before there also with a family member's car.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (49)
Sucks you had problems with Rock Auto, I've been buying and returning stuff for years. Some parts that have a lifetime I've swapped out several times and I thought they would hassle me but never have. I just go online to my account, click the order, click return and print a reaturn label. Usually warranty shipping is free but even if I pay for it it's like 5 to 10 bucks. Some of the repeat returns being stock front hubs before I switched to the Corvette race hubs, and steering parts that I beat to crap.
I also am a fan of raybestos, I recently replaces all calipers and master on my Toyota and it stops as good as new. Parts from rockauto cheaper than local shops.
I also am a fan of raybestos, I recently replaces all calipers and master on my Toyota and it stops as good as new. Parts from rockauto cheaper than local shops.
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
Local auto parts stores have the same issue's with this type of stuff. went through this with NAPA
I went through 6 callipers on 1 side while working on a conversion. The first one had an alignment issue. The caliper was sticking and wore the pad real bad. The next 4 had several issues. 1 sealing surface for washer was damaged, 1 bleed screw area would not seal , 1 was completely wrong caliper, 1 was a dirty used return caliper. Last unit was all banged up but did work. Didn't want to press our luck trying to get another.
I went through 6 callipers on 1 side while working on a conversion. The first one had an alignment issue. The caliper was sticking and wore the pad real bad. The next 4 had several issues. 1 sealing surface for washer was damaged, 1 bleed screw area would not seal , 1 was completely wrong caliper, 1 was a dirty used return caliper. Last unit was all banged up but did work. Didn't want to press our luck trying to get another.
#11
Local auto parts stores have the same issue's with this type of stuff. went through this with NAPA
I went through 6 callipers on 1 side while working on a conversion. The first one had an alignment issue. The caliper was sticking and wore the pad real bad. The next 4 had several issues. 1 sealing surface for washer was damaged, 1 bleed screw area would not seal , 1 was completely wrong caliper, 1 was a dirty used return caliper. Last unit was all banged up but did work. Didn't want to press our luck trying to get another.
I went through 6 callipers on 1 side while working on a conversion. The first one had an alignment issue. The caliper was sticking and wore the pad real bad. The next 4 had several issues. 1 sealing surface for washer was damaged, 1 bleed screw area would not seal , 1 was completely wrong caliper, 1 was a dirty used return caliper. Last unit was all banged up but did work. Didn't want to press our luck trying to get another.
On a side note I ended up getting a NEW Raybestos "Opti-cal" caliper for my drivers side as I've given up on the reman. units for now. Initial impressions are that it seems made descent; plated bracket, lubed slide pins, descent job on the caliper casting (and various machining on it), properly machined washer/gasket sealing surface. I installed it tonight and... NO LEAKS! pics below.
I'll see how this one works out over the weekend. If all is well I might also replace my passenger side unit.
Last edited by j498; 08-28-2018 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Pics
#15
My PS caliper is a newer reman. AcDelco unit, I replaced both at the same time... but if the DS Raybestos units works out well I may consider just replacing the PS caliper so both front calipers are new and matching/braking equally. The only reason I might hesitate is the Centric steel braided brake hoses that I regrettably installed, and the headache associated with cracking them open.
It seems like the the only thing they do is clean them and make them kind of pretty, maybe replace a seal or two, and if your lucky maybe you will get new guide pins and bolts. Testing is only done when the boss is watching and all luck with them depends on when it was made. If it was a "Monday" or a "Friday" unit like mine. forget about it.
It seems like the the only thing they do is clean them and make them kind of pretty, maybe replace a seal or two, and if your lucky maybe you will get new guide pins and bolts. Testing is only done when the boss is watching and all luck with them depends on when it was made. If it was a "Monday" or a "Friday" unit like mine. forget about it.