What Else Is Needed On Suspension To Be Complete?
11-25-2018, 11:21 AM
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What Else Is Needed On Suspension To Be Complete? As the title states, everything thus far has been UMI and I’d prefer to stick with that. All of the parts listed below have less than 500 miles on total so everything is still breaking in. Every piece from UMI has been Mild Steel, not building a race car so Chromoly is not of interest to me, upgrading the suspension like I have should be saving a lot of OEM anyways.
Springs:
- Sam Strano lowering springs
- Every mount related to springs / suspension when doing the springs and shocks was replaced with MOOG and OEM parts where and when applicable
- New poly bumper stops
- 99 thru 04 cobra rear spring isolators (gives more of a drop)
Rear Suspension:
- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable panhard bar
- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable LCA’s
- Bolt on LCA relocation brackets (now welded on)
- Powdered Coated OEM upper panhard bar
- UMI upgraded rear sway bar
- UMI billet rear sway bar mounts
- UMI rear sway bar axle mounts
- Energy suspension rear sway shorter end links
- UMI full length adjustable torque arm
- UMI transmission mount relocation cross memeber (Automatic Transmission) takes Torque Arm off tailshaft
- Bilstein HD shocks
- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)
Front Suspension:
- UMI upgraded front sway bar
- UMI billet front sway bar mounts
- Blaine Fab powder coated front heavy duty sway bar mounts
- Energy Suspension front sway links (need to go shorter link)
- Bilstein HD shocks
- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)
- UMI 2 point Strut Tower Brace
- UMI 2 point Weld In Subframe Connectors
- Sam Strano Brake Master Cylinder brace
- UMI tunnel mounted drive shaft safety loop
Rear End:
- TA Performance Differential Cover
- TA main stud kit
- Richmond MEGA rear end rebuild kit
- Brand NEW Motive Orange Box 373 gears
** Looking to buy UMI front upper a-arms (probably non-adjustable),UMI front lower a-arms (probably adjustable), UMI front upper a-arm mounts, UMI k-member, UMI Delrin steering member inserts.
***Just bought Rotoworks Slotted ONLY set of rotors (4), HAWKS HPS front and rear pads (WS6 Black Friday / Cyber Monday sale).
****Rebuild kit included all NEW TIMKEN bearings, seals, spider gear in the rear end. Every single seal and bearing was replaced and upgraded.
is there anything suspension wise I can add?
Thanks in advance!!
Springs:
- Sam Strano lowering springs
- Every mount related to springs / suspension when doing the springs and shocks was replaced with MOOG and OEM parts where and when applicable
- New poly bumper stops
- 99 thru 04 cobra rear spring isolators (gives more of a drop)
Rear Suspension:
- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable panhard bar
- Poly / Roto single on car adjustable LCA’s
- Bolt on LCA relocation brackets (now welded on)
- Powdered Coated OEM upper panhard bar
- UMI upgraded rear sway bar
- UMI billet rear sway bar mounts
- UMI rear sway bar axle mounts
- Energy suspension rear sway shorter end links
- UMI full length adjustable torque arm
- UMI transmission mount relocation cross memeber (Automatic Transmission) takes Torque Arm off tailshaft
- Bilstein HD shocks
- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)
Front Suspension:
- UMI upgraded front sway bar
- UMI billet front sway bar mounts
- Blaine Fab powder coated front heavy duty sway bar mounts
- Energy Suspension front sway links (need to go shorter link)
- Bilstein HD shocks
- Stainless Steel brakelines (J&M WS6 Store)
- UMI 2 point Strut Tower Brace
- UMI 2 point Weld In Subframe Connectors
- Sam Strano Brake Master Cylinder brace
- UMI tunnel mounted drive shaft safety loop
Rear End:
- TA Performance Differential Cover
- TA main stud kit
- Richmond MEGA rear end rebuild kit
- Brand NEW Motive Orange Box 373 gears
** Looking to buy UMI front upper a-arms (probably non-adjustable),UMI front lower a-arms (probably adjustable), UMI front upper a-arm mounts, UMI k-member, UMI Delrin steering member inserts.
***Just bought Rotoworks Slotted ONLY set of rotors (4), HAWKS HPS front and rear pads (WS6 Black Friday / Cyber Monday sale).
****Rebuild kit included all NEW TIMKEN bearings, seals, spider gear in the rear end. Every single seal and bearing was replaced and upgraded.
is there anything suspension wise I can add?
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by blk97z28; 11-25-2018 at 02:43 PM.
11-25-2018, 02:57 PM
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More on the rebuild kit. I bought a Ratech solid pinion spacer, however the pinion spacer was no good and couldn't be used. Is wasn't flush all the way around and we tried putting it on the leath and it didn't help. So we just went with an OEM Crush Sleeve for now. Does anyone have in input on where to get a solid pinion spacer.
- Mega Bearing Kit Includes Timken Bearings (Axle, Carrier, Front and Rear Pinion, Pilot where applicable), Brush, Cover Gasket (or RTV), Crush Sleeve (or Preload Shim Pack), Marking Compound, Pinion Nut, Ring Gear Bolts, Seals (Axle, Pinion), Shims (Pinion, Carrier), and Thread Locking Compound
11-26-2018, 08:38 PM
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i see zero benefit of chromoly Over mild steel for my application except my wallet being a lot less lighter.
my car is pristine condition so no I don’t want to tear it all apart for a “race car”.
11-27-2018, 07:32 PM
#6
Pretty sure he was joking... you are aware the SCCA AutoX championship is there. There are many classes that require that you don't tear your car apart. As for your question, you have added or changed just about every part of your suspension. My only suggestion would be replacing parts you already replaced with other parts. Like a Watts link for instance. But not knowing what you want out of the car... uh. Coilovers allow you to set any ride height you want and corner weight the car.
I am with you on the chromoly, that is pretty much unneeded, but the option is there for people that want it, for whatever reason.
I am with you on the chromoly, that is pretty much unneeded, but the option is there for people that want it, for whatever reason.
11-27-2018, 09:05 PM
#7
Bilstein shocks = waste of money. Should have bought Koni yellow (single adjustable). The shock and spring are a team that work together and I know Strano springs work with Koni's better than most other shocks (maybe Sam's Viking package is the other good option).
You don't say what size or kind of swaybars you put on. Size and kind matter (solid or hollow) for how you plan to drive it. FWIW, I autocross a lot and I still have the stock rear bar.
Not upgrading brake calipers? No watts link?
The bigger question is, what do you want to get out of driving your car? Autocross? Just street? Doing a track day or two? Because not all those parts really make the car faster, smoother, or improves handling, just lighter wallet. You could replace every single piece on the car, but what's end result for you?
You don't say what size or kind of swaybars you put on. Size and kind matter (solid or hollow) for how you plan to drive it. FWIW, I autocross a lot and I still have the stock rear bar.
Not upgrading brake calipers? No watts link?
The bigger question is, what do you want to get out of driving your car? Autocross? Just street? Doing a track day or two? Because not all those parts really make the car faster, smoother, or improves handling, just lighter wallet. You could replace every single piece on the car, but what's end result for you?
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11-28-2018, 02:11 PM
#8
I agree the shocks are lacking some. But here's the thing. Projects like this might never be done, because who's to say what's a "complete" suspension? No matter what you do, there is some other option. So you do what suits you best. And being honest, for a street car there are a lot of things there I might have passed on had I been involved from the start, and other things I would have changed. For instance the front brakes can be massively better a few different ways. I would have a Watts link over a PHB (and I do). *I* don't run LCA brackets myself, typically, but they have their uses. Again, depends what you need to get the result you want.
Of course I have all the UMI parts if you want to talk about those things missing you mention up front. But for instance, if you run non-adjustable upper arms, you can't use the upper mounts that allow you to change your camber curve and anti-dive geometry. Another thing you may, or may not wan to do.
On the fact of it, the brakes are lacking, the shocks are lacking. Watts link are biggies. I would do a K-member before actually worrying much about arms, depending on what parts you used in the rear "caster" bushing location. And then I might just do lowers, or maybe just uppers. Again. situation, and budget dependent.
Of course I have all the UMI parts if you want to talk about those things missing you mention up front. But for instance, if you run non-adjustable upper arms, you can't use the upper mounts that allow you to change your camber curve and anti-dive geometry. Another thing you may, or may not wan to do.
On the fact of it, the brakes are lacking, the shocks are lacking. Watts link are biggies. I would do a K-member before actually worrying much about arms, depending on what parts you used in the rear "caster" bushing location. And then I might just do lowers, or maybe just uppers. Again. situation, and budget dependent.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
11-29-2018, 07:42 AM
#9
Since you aren't trying to address any specific shortcomings, anything you do will just be lighter wallet mods. Drive the car for a while and see what you want it to do better, but like it was mentioned, shocks at least are a general koni preference. Like Sam mentioned about the rear bushing on the front lca, go with the Moog problem solver rotary joint piece, cheap and works great. Also you could go with adjustable rear lca that can be shortened for better turn in. I run founders double adjustable and shortened them all the way for noticable quick turning, but I think tramlining suffers if that matters to you.
11-29-2018, 10:05 PM
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Use of the car mainly street. Bought in 12/5/05 with 68,200 miles now has 75,825? Since 2011 put less than 1000 miles on it.
I bought the shocks way back when as i could not afford Koni’s (now are double adjustable better than single adjustable)? I know UMI makes a kit now that turns the PH into a watt link system.
Car is a street car, want high HP and just an overall around fun car.
plan is 383 forged either nitrous or super charger, 9in, built 4L60E (either 700 HP or 1000 HP version); looking at the “black edition”, companies such a small performa built, FLT, RPM transmission. Heads probably AFR / AI or LE, custom cam to match. Currently has 373’s with a rebuilt rear end for right now. Probably get yank billet 3 piece 3600-4000 stall, shift kit HD TRANS GO 2.
I bought the shocks way back when as i could not afford Koni’s (now are double adjustable better than single adjustable)? I know UMI makes a kit now that turns the PH into a watt link system.
Car is a street car, want high HP and just an overall around fun car.
plan is 383 forged either nitrous or super charger, 9in, built 4L60E (either 700 HP or 1000 HP version); looking at the “black edition”, companies such a small performa built, FLT, RPM transmission. Heads probably AFR / AI or LE, custom cam to match. Currently has 373’s with a rebuilt rear end for right now. Probably get yank billet 3 piece 3600-4000 stall, shift kit HD TRANS GO 2.
11-29-2018, 10:06 PM
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Since you aren't trying to address any specific shortcomings, anything you do will just be lighter wallet mods. Drive the car for a while and see what you want it to do better, but like it was mentioned, shocks at least are a general koni preference. Like Sam mentioned about the rear bushing on the front lca, go with the Moog problem solver rotary joint piece, cheap and works great. Also you could go with adjustable rear lca that can be shortened for better turn in. I run founders double adjustable and shortened them all the way for noticable quick turning, but I think tramlining suffers if that matters to you.
everything is on car single adjustable for suspension FYI. Poly Roto UMI
11-29-2018, 11:45 PM
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Pretty sure he was joking... you are aware the SCCA AutoX championship is there. There are many classes that require that you don't tear your car apart. As for your question, you have added or changed just about every part of your suspension. My only suggestion would be replacing parts you already replaced with other parts. Like a Watts link for instance. But not knowing what you want out of the car... uh. Coilovers allow you to set any ride height you want and corner weight the car.
I am with you on the chromoly, that is pretty much unneeded, but the option is there for people that want it, for whatever reason.
I am with you on the chromoly, that is pretty much unneeded, but the option is there for people that want it, for whatever reason.
had zero idea the autocross is here, don’t even know where it’s held in Lincoln Nebraska. I’m more in the street scene.
11-29-2018, 11:49 PM
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Bilstein shocks = waste of money. Should have bought Koni yellow (single adjustable). The shock and spring are a team that work together and I know Strano springs work with Koni's better than most other shocks (maybe Sam's Viking package is the other good option).
You don't say what size or kind of swaybars you put on. Size and kind matter (solid or hollow) for how you plan to drive it. FWIW, I autocross a lot and I still have the stock rear bar.
Not upgrading brake calipers? No watts link?
The bigger question is, what do you want to get out of driving your car? Autocross? Just street? Doing a track day or two? Because not all those parts really make the car faster, smoother, or improves handling, just lighter wallet. You could replace every single piece on the car, but what's end result for you?
You don't say what size or kind of swaybars you put on. Size and kind matter (solid or hollow) for how you plan to drive it. FWIW, I autocross a lot and I still have the stock rear bar.
Not upgrading brake calipers? No watts link?
The bigger question is, what do you want to get out of driving your car? Autocross? Just street? Doing a track day or two? Because not all those parts really make the car faster, smoother, or improves handling, just lighter wallet. You could replace every single piece on the car, but what's end result for you?
Sway bars: sway bars 35mm front and 22mm rear
Mounts: HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM SWAY BAR MOUNT KIT- 35MM & 22MM SWAY BAR KITS
axle mounts: AFTERMARKET REAR END SWAY BAR INSTALLATION KIT- STOCK REAR
11-29-2018, 11:52 PM
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Budget really isn’t an issue.
im one of those people if I am going to replace stuff I’m going to do everything.
bugdet was an issue when I bought my shocks.
however all the pieces for my suspension only has less than 250 miles on it just fyi
im one of those people if I am going to replace stuff I’m going to do everything.
bugdet was an issue when I bought my shocks.
however all the pieces for my suspension only has less than 250 miles on it just fyi
11-30-2018, 12:07 PM
#16
Use of the car mainly street. Bought in 12/5/05 with 68,200 miles now has 75,825? Since 2011 put less than 1000 miles on it.
I bought the shocks way back when as i could not afford Koni’s (now are double adjustable better than single adjustable)? I know UMI makes a kit now that turns the PH into a watt link system.
I bought the shocks way back when as i could not afford Koni’s (now are double adjustable better than single adjustable)? I know UMI makes a kit now that turns the PH into a watt link system.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
