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My retarded rear end

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Old 08-16-2021, 10:39 AM
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Default My retarded rear end

Just slapped new rear control arms but my left wheel was stuck on that hump. Took wheel off and got both off now. (Rights got a nail in it) 🤦‍♂️ anyhow. Retarded lean. Passengers side moves freely, drivers is stiff. Any suggestions? 🤔 kinda stumped
Old 08-16-2021, 09:46 PM
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We need more pictures, something is bound up.
Old 08-16-2021, 09:48 PM
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Any specific angle? After i had the car jacked up on one side, the other wheel was on that stopper in the wheelwell
Old 08-18-2021, 10:43 AM
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Get some good pics of both ends of the lower links, the panhard rod and the torque rod.
Old 08-18-2021, 10:56 AM
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Im actually in the midst of replacing the lower links, and panhard bar.

also someone gave me this swaybar. But looking against my old one. Looks a tad off. Any.pro guidance on this?
Old 08-18-2021, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by My2ndbird
Im actually in the midst of replacing the lower links, and panhard bar.

also someone gave me this swaybar. But looking against my old one. Looks a tad off. Any.pro guidance on this?
Are you comparing the two sway bars in the pic? The smaller one is a rear sway bar (probably a 19mm), the bigger one is a front sway bar (probably a 30mm, I think the WS6 came with a 32mm).

In any case regarding the rear being stiff on the driver's side. You removed the shocks and springs when you are trying to articulate it? It can only be a couple of things. The panhard bar resisting movement, since the axle pivot point for it is on the drivers side. The two lower control arms, what did you replace them with? Stock rubber bushed arms, or something else?
Old 08-18-2021, 11:15 AM
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I put tubular moly control arms. Guy also hooked me up with this panhard bar, so the stock panhard will get removed
Old 08-18-2021, 11:50 AM
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I'm guessing those tubular control arms have polyurethane bushing in them. Did you torque both side to the stock value? Poly is notorious, particularly in rear lower control arm applications, for binding up. If you torqued them to the stock value or beyond you will really feel the resistance in the joint - it won't want to move.

Last edited by lees02WS6; 08-18-2021 at 01:46 PM.
Old 08-18-2021, 01:02 PM
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Correct, torqued and lubed
Old 08-18-2021, 01:49 PM
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What i would do, remove the shocks and springs. Then jack the diff up, leaving the diff resting on the jack, and try to isolate whether it's a bad shock, or the control arm binding.

If you can easily tilt the rear end, then try compressing the shocks by hand.
Old 08-18-2021, 01:54 PM
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I put the springs and shocks on in 18.... but yeah i get what you're saying 👍
Old 08-19-2021, 09:23 PM
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No an expert but one other comment to add... when you torqued everything for the new components did you do it with the suspension loaded at normal drive height? If not the bushing might be bound up in a weird unloaded position instead of where it would sit with the weight of the car on it. And it they're bound up tight enough they might not want to return to normal position even with weigh. That can also tear up the bushing prematurely over time. Might be worth loosing things up let the weigh sit on the axle and tighten everything back up to spec, then rechecking.

Also make sure the rubber spring isolators didn't come out of place above the rear springs.




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