Assistance on upgrades to help hook
Assistance on upgrades to help hook I just recently added a decent amount of power to my car and I know gripping on the street is kind of a fools errand.. but I added some Nitto 555Rs to my car, aired them down to 28 and I just absolutely roast them... and have zero prayer of gripping... now a few notes
Front shocks are stock (I have some Konis, not in yet)
Rears are Koni Sport
stock springs
stock torque arm
stock lcas (I bought 1LE bushings to install)
stock 16" wheels (I know..)
Obviously you see above some upgrades are planned already.
Where should my priorities be? Perhaps an order of operation, that would be nice to follow. Suspension setup is a new ballgame to me. I have no interest in running coilovers or a crap load of NVH, I can deal with some.
Front shocks are stock (I have some Konis, not in yet)
Rears are Koni Sport
stock springs
stock torque arm
stock lcas (I bought 1LE bushings to install)
stock 16" wheels (I know..)
Obviously you see above some upgrades are planned already.
Where should my priorities be? Perhaps an order of operation, that would be nice to follow. Suspension setup is a new ballgame to me. I have no interest in running coilovers or a crap load of NVH, I can deal with some.
Lol definitely not. I just know there is work to be done suspension wise. Even when I get to the track for actual runs.
I have a set of those too, actually. I also have lowering springs but I'm hesitant to add the springs for traction purposes. I assume adding the relocation brackets without springs is fine?
Last edited by Tyler Dietzenbach; May 3, 2022 at 12:39 PM.
Roll your fenders and BFH the inner wheel well if going to a 28" tall tire. Purchase some 15"x10" wheels and run the 275/60R15 MickeyThompson SS drag radial, if an ABS car then go with the 255/60R15 and no rolling fenders or BFH. There's also the option of keeping the same wheel with no fender rolling or BFH and do the M/T 255/50R16 SS drag radial. Going to adjustable LCA's and shocks would help a lot too.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
Kevin Wilson SBC Kevin Wilson - YouTube has some very good videos on f-body torque arm suspension. Anyone who is trying to drag race an f-body needs to watch his videos.
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Roll your fenders and BFH the inner wheel well if going to a 28" tall tire. Purchase some 15"x10" wheels and run the 275/60R15 MickeyThompson SS drag radial, if an ABS car then go with the 255/60R15 and no rolling fenders or BFH. There's also the option of keeping the same wheel with no fender rolling or BFH and do the M/T 255/50R16 SS drag radial. Going to adjustable LCA's and shocks would help a lot too.
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just get a set of cheep steelies and mount street radials on them if you're not set on commiting to new wheels wheels yet. The LCA relo brackets will help as well. Can you weld, or have buddy who can? Before you change out your stock LCA bushings take some 10ga plate and cut a strip and weld it under your stock arms to box them. It stiffens them up tremendously and is a cheap alternative to aftermarket ones.
just get a set of cheep steelies and mount street radials on them if you're not set on commiting to new wheels wheels yet. The LCA relo brackets will help as well. Can you weld, or have buddy who can? Before you change out your stock LCA bushings take some 10ga plate and cut a strip and weld it under your stock arms to box them. It stiffens them up tremendously and is a cheap alternative to aftermarket ones.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Holy bejesus. You really need to concentrate on that whole rear suspension upgrade. All that stock stamped steel junk ain't cuttin it.
At a minimum, you need a better torque arm and some LCAs. Addind SFCs, LCA lower control arm brackets and an adjustable PHR is even more of a benefit later on
The adjustable PHR will be adjusting your thrust to make you go straight.
Then after all thats done and you're on a sticky tire...kiss that 10 bolt goodbye. Stock driveshaft will probably twist and if you're an A4, a stock 4l60 gonna have 4 neutrals.
Also know this, The UMI torque arm uses a DS loop that hangs way down and they won't fix this problem. So I used the BMR which completely tucks the loop up in the car.
Shop wisely.
EDIT: also if you don't invest in adjustable parts and your pinion angle is wrong, you will get severe wheel hop and break a lot more than just one part.
At a minimum, you need a better torque arm and some LCAs. Addind SFCs, LCA lower control arm brackets and an adjustable PHR is even more of a benefit later on
The adjustable PHR will be adjusting your thrust to make you go straight.
Then after all thats done and you're on a sticky tire...kiss that 10 bolt goodbye. Stock driveshaft will probably twist and if you're an A4, a stock 4l60 gonna have 4 neutrals.
Also know this, The UMI torque arm uses a DS loop that hangs way down and they won't fix this problem. So I used the BMR which completely tucks the loop up in the car.
Shop wisely.
EDIT: also if you don't invest in adjustable parts and your pinion angle is wrong, you will get severe wheel hop and break a lot more than just one part.
Holy bejesus. You really need to concentrate on that whole rear suspension upgrade. All that stock stamped steel junk ain't cuttin it.
At a minimum, you need a better torque arm and some LCAs. Addind SFCs, LCA lower control arm brackets and an adjustable PHR is even more of a benefit later on
The adjustable PHR will be adjusting your thrust to make you go straight.
Then after all thats done and you're on a sticky tire...kiss that 10 bolt goodbye. Stock driveshaft will probably twist and if you're an A4, a stock 4l60 gonna have 4 neutrals.
Also know this, The UMI torque arm uses a DS loop that hangs way down and they won't fix this problem. So I used the BMR which completely tucks the loop up in the car.
Shop wisely.
EDIT: also if you don't invest in adjustable parts and your pinion angle is wrong, you will get severe wheel hop and break a lot more than just one part.
At a minimum, you need a better torque arm and some LCAs. Addind SFCs, LCA lower control arm brackets and an adjustable PHR is even more of a benefit later on
The adjustable PHR will be adjusting your thrust to make you go straight.
Then after all thats done and you're on a sticky tire...kiss that 10 bolt goodbye. Stock driveshaft will probably twist and if you're an A4, a stock 4l60 gonna have 4 neutrals.
Also know this, The UMI torque arm uses a DS loop that hangs way down and they won't fix this problem. So I used the BMR which completely tucks the loop up in the car.
Shop wisely.
EDIT: also if you don't invest in adjustable parts and your pinion angle is wrong, you will get severe wheel hop and break a lot more than just one part.
Boxing the stock LCAs and using 1LE bushings will be just fine for my needs. No reason to run roto joints and poly binds. I'll be fine with that.
I agree that a better torque arm would likely help. Wouldn't I only need an adjustable panhard bar if I decide to lower?
Yes I'm well aware of the trans and rear issues that are in my future. I have an auto, which is mentioned above.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
PHR moves the rear left or right to make you go straight. Either an adjustable tq arm or adjustable LCAs is what will set pinion angle. You don't HAVE to get LCAs with any type of roto joint. The do make ones that have solid ends. Don't even need adjustable ones.