I'm trying to figure out an issue I'm having. I'm pretty sure it's because I'm using parts from multiple different companies.

BMR tubular K member
BMR adjustable lower control arms
BMR upper a arms(I do have a set of adjustables on the shelf)
Strano front sway bar

I'm finishing up installing Ridetech coil overs front and rear.

The issue is, the front sway bar touches the springs on the coil overs. The car is pretty close to final ride height and is currently on jackstands(under the front a arms, as close to the ball joint as I can get.

Right now I have the sway bar parallel to the ground. If I rotate it higher, (the end link is further away from the lower control arm) it gets better, but I don't think that's the right way to do it.

I am wondering if I could move the sway bar mounting plates forward an inch that would give me clearance, but I have no idea what new problem that will create.

 

did u put the upper shock mounts on the wrong sides? Lol

Could be from a mish-mash of parts but it could be from something not being manufactured right. Some of the suspension components I got from UMI weren’t made right. It threw me off until I realized what it was. I reordered the parts and they came in right the second time.

 

Shouldn't matter that the parts are from different places.

You said your lower arms are adjustable. Possible they're set way too far one direction, pushing everything forward and hitting?

 

Right now I'm leaning towards it's the mis mash of parts.

I am relatively confident the install was done correctly, I actually did read the instructions and went back over them when I realized I had this issue.

However I will rarely say that I couldnt have made a mistake.

I started on the install last fall and just now got back on it.

Anytime you take that big of a break on a project, it's hard to remember exactly everything you checked.
I had to redo the charge pipes on my Huron APS TT style turbo kit because the charge pipes took up the same space as the coil springs.

I emailed Strano, who I bought the parts from(except the BMR stuff) to see if he has seen this issue before.

I blame the donkey dick front sway bar
😆😆

 

The only adjustment is on the rear mounting point . The front has the the same adjustment for camber as the factory.

If I figure out I'm the problem, I'll gladly post it up.

 

Right, but if you lengthen that rear part of the control arm, it will use the forward mounting point as the fulcrum and pivot the arm forward.

 

I had the same problem with my ridetechs......I am using a Detroit speed sway....the fix....used some energy suspension sway mounts....they are slotted....move the slot all the way to the front
you really need to upgrade to the detroit speed sway brackets.....the stockers WILL fail....ask me how i know

 

Thank you for replying. I slotted the factory brackets as much as I could, but with the OEM hardware, I didn't gain that much.

 

the detroit sways do use a vette style end link ....seems the regular style links place it closer to the spring? what brand of bushing are you using ? the ES bushing puts the sway up higher to the sway bracket

 

One possible solution would to swap to a solid Addco 35mm front sway bar (if still made) and to grind for clearance to avoid hitting the front springs.

 

What I ended up doing was slotting the sway bar mounting bracket holes(that mounts to the car) and slide it forward about 1/2 inch.

The sway bar bushing mount is slotted(I misspoke, I thought they were OEM, but they must be Strano's) I changed to a socket allen bolt and that allowed me to slide the sway bar even further towards the front of the car.

I have a little over an inch of clearance between the bar and the Ridetech coil spring.

Am I right in thinking the sway bar should be level at ride height? If so, I'm going to have to find some longer length end links to see if someone makes an adjustable endlink for our cars, which I haven't been able to find yet.

I appreciate everyone's replies.

 

I had this same problem with the strano bar and vikings. It would hit the adjusting *****. I ended up just using longer end links to solve the problem. Shouldn't matter if the bar is not exactly parallel.