About to order SLP Weld-in SFC, any reason not to?
#1
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About to order SLP Weld-in SFC, any reason not to?
Any reason not to go with these other than the fact that they weigh 40lbs?
I’ve done a couple of hours of searching and reading and it looks like the multiple contact SFC’s are going to keep the car straight and improve rigidity. The standard box or tube bars still allow the body to twist some.
I actually found the Kenny Brown double diamond for a little less than the SLP SFC, but the KB just doesn’t look like it’s as strong. I could make a KB style SFC with some scrap metal left over from other projects.
Any input would be helpful, thanks!
Jeremy
I’ve done a couple of hours of searching and reading and it looks like the multiple contact SFC’s are going to keep the car straight and improve rigidity. The standard box or tube bars still allow the body to twist some.
I actually found the Kenny Brown double diamond for a little less than the SLP SFC, but the KB just doesn’t look like it’s as strong. I could make a KB style SFC with some scrap metal left over from other projects.
Any input would be helpful, thanks!
Jeremy
#2
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KB connectors look downright flimsy compared to the SLP.
I welded in a set of SLP's with 1500 miles on my car and would do it again. SFC's are not a miracle cure, but they help with the total package.
The only thing I wish I'd done is to order the Bolt in style and weld those in. They are powdercoated and I've had a tough time getting paint to stay on mine over the last two years.
Hope that helps.
I welded in a set of SLP's with 1500 miles on my car and would do it again. SFC's are not a miracle cure, but they help with the total package.
The only thing I wish I'd done is to order the Bolt in style and weld those in. They are powdercoated and I've had a tough time getting paint to stay on mine over the last two years.
Hope that helps.
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From: St. Michael, MN.
Originally Posted by trackbird
The only thing I wish I'd done is to order the Bolt in style and weld those in. They are powdercoated and I've had a tough time getting paint to stay on mine over the last two years.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
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From: Palos Hills, IL
its safe enought to jsut bolt them in tho and not attempt to weld them correct?...
the only Downside to SLP SFC's is they are heavier than most...but much sturdier and more FULL/complex so they do the job right
the only Downside to SLP SFC's is they are heavier than most...but much sturdier and more FULL/complex so they do the job right
#5
Just get the SLP bolt-on's and bolt them in, I don't care what anyone says about bolt-on's not being as good as weld-on SFC. If you install the bolt-on SFC correctly you'll be very happy with the results, here's link to the install http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm . BTW, If you like to have your car welded on then by all means do so.
Al
Al
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#12
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
does SLP SFC's cause any issues with GMMG with QTP LT's and catted or cutout Y pipes?...how about BMR K Member, LCAs, Torque Arm?
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From: Central FL
I bought my bolt on's from a sponser http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...e%20Connectorsthey were miss-advertised for $260 now there back to $296. Excellent people to deal with. Also, I am about to post a thread on my install I did today.
#14
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Originally Posted by trackbird
I did my own.
I did my own also, but I've heard of shops doing it for anywhere from $50 to $150. My slp sfc's provide an excellent jacking rail; I can just put the jack under the door and lift up the whole side of the car, NASCAR style. It impresses people at the SCCA track when I do it this way.
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by Cal
I did my own also, but I've heard of shops doing it for anywhere from $50 to $150. My slp sfc's provide an excellent jacking rail; I can just put the jack under the door and lift up the whole side of the car, NASCAR style. It impresses people at the SCCA track when I do it this way.
#16
Will the SLP bolt on SFC's fit on my car with my TSP true Duals? I looked at some pictures of a SFC install & it looked like it would. I like the SLP bolt ons because it ties to the tunnel brace thing, which I had to remove because of the true duals. It appears to me this would help support this area.
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From: NC
I love my SLP bolt ins except with a lot of exahust stuff you will have problems with them. Especially any ypipe or setup where you want to run dual cutouts off the headers or downstream on the ypipe. They work great with a normal ypipe, but I had TONS of problems with the QTP ypipe with dual cutouts (not even the electric ones) -- it was so bad I had to give up and just re-use my Kooks ypipe.
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From: Missouri
I would look into LG motorsports G2 SFC. They are tubular but have a system of optional v-braces and a driveshaft safety loop that ties it all together. I'm not positive, but I think they would offer a little more clearance than the SLP's. If anyone has pictures of the G2 SFC with the v-braces installed, I would really like to see them, as would most of the people in this thread I am assuming.
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From: Central FL
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/shop/pr...b7753b5fb89646
Those things are dinky, and there $30 more than the SLP bolt-ins. You really don't lose all that much clearance with the SLP's.
http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Scroll down to see installed pics.
Those things are dinky, and there $30 more than the SLP bolt-ins. You really don't lose all that much clearance with the SLP's.
http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Scroll down to see installed pics.