jcarroll845

iTrader: (5)

The best pics of the Spohn SFC on a car are at their site:

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1393

Flawless02SS

iTrader: (9)

the best sfcs out the are the Kenny Brown double diamond. They tie the front and rear sub frame together along with the center cross member of the car. I am very, very pleased with mine. When I take a curve hard I can hardly stay in my seat the g-force pulls so hard. cant wait until i get a panhard, LCRs with relocation brackets and a 1.5 drop. So go with the Kenny Browns (weld on) like me and u will be very glad you did !!

matts22

iTrader: (2)

I have heard of some bad experiences with these though (KBDD)


I am still looking for pics of SLP SFC from the side of the vehicle. I want to see some ground clearance shots. PLEASE someone point me in the right direction. I have spent A LOT of time searching and haven't seen any. For SFC as popular as these, I know someone has the pics I'm looking for.

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, for your application a set of BMR or similar tubular SFCs would be more than adequate. However, since you want to bolt them on...I'd vote SLP. I have weld-in BMRs and I wish I had done it years ago...

jcarroll845

iTrader: (5)

I disagree. A very close friend of mine (and member of this forum) has KBSFCs and he had to have them modified becuase the fitment was off. His car was practically brand new when he put them on. And there have been others on this forum that have listed their issues with the KBSFCs. The Kenny Browns have fitment issues from time to time and they are no stronger then the SLPs.

Like I said in an earlier post, if you want all out stregnth, SLP is the only way to go and you HAVE to weld them in for maximum strength. If you drive the car frequantly and speed bumps are an issue, than either tubular BMRs or Spohns are the way to go. If I had to choose, I'd do Spohns just for the cost factor. The materials are identical.

MATTS22: Trust me when I tell you... the tubulars are the way to go for your application.

99'Formula

iTrader: (7)

Wolfe

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Don't the Wolfe's require you to remove the carpet and other interior parts? That seems like quite a hassle for SFC.

I had posted earlier, I am wondering about rust. Are the SLP's prone to rust? Does Chrome Moly rust, I mean, is it like stainless steel or aluminum?

And I'm still looking for ground clearance pics of SLP SFC.

jcarroll845

iTrader: (5)

They all rust. Chromoly will rust, mild steel will rust. You have to make sure they are coated well... powder coated is better than sprayed because it's more durable and less likely to chip from road crap. But as with anything under your car, if you want it to stay nice, you have to keep it up.

I'll probably be over to see my car tomorrow and if I go, I'll snap a few digis for you to check out the clearance. It's about 1" - 1 1/2" less clearance than stock. I'd say just slightly more than an aftermarket y-pipe like the SLP y or similar.

It's Saturday! I've gotta go hhmmmm Guinness!!!

TTYL

matts22

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, that would be great!

99'Formula

iTrader: (7)

Wolfe sells through the floor sub frames and they also sell regular subframes, which I got. The normal subframes they offer in chromoly and in mild steel.
Here's the link: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=78
They have some other cool things there too. Good luck with your choice.

Flawless02SS

iTrader: (9)

No fit issues with my KBDDs, mine fit like a glove. The SLPs are the same as the KBDD, but dont **** with the bolt-ons go with the weld-ons. I dont see why some of u guys dont like weld ons, I mean why in the hell would you want to take them back off. KBDDs are the best in my book! I know others will do.

jcarroll845

iTrader: (5)

If you buy SLPs, buy the bolt-ons. I found this out the hard way. This way it comes powdercoated and with all the hardware. The finish on them is better than you can do yourself, then you just touch up the welds with undercoating. Having the hardware and being able to bolt them up first makes life much easier when you go to weld them in. Then just bolt them on and take it to a body shop and have them run the welds (unless you weld at home but I'm guessing you don't since you want bolt-ons). It ends up being the same $ but a better finished product. If you buy the weld on version, you have to finish them yourself. You can either spray them with a can and have them rust through in a year or you can pay a body shop to use undercoat spray (like I did) and spend the same amount of money in the long run.

I guess what it comes down to is there really just isn't any wrong way to do it... just do it. You will not regret it.

matts22

iTrader: (2)

There's a couple reasons to go bolt on:

1. I haven't decided on an exhaust setup yet and they might get in the way and need removed.
2. They come powdercoated.
3. They can be welded in just like the "weld-in" version, they just also offer provisions allowing it to be bolted in.

And those Wolfe (non-through-the-floor) SFC look kind of cheap to me. Maybe it is just the picture. I am pretty set on either SLP Bolt-in or Spohn tubular right now.

Flawless02SS

iTrader: (9)

Them getting in the way of an exhaust system is a good point, mine should be ok, if not the entire system will be custom to fit. And as for rusting, the KBDDs are zinc plated so never will rust. But I did primer them and paint them with 4 coats of some rust-oleum gloss protective enamel. (bright red) looks bad *** under the car. And another thing, my car is never driven in rain, sleet or slow. Only a weekend hot rod !!