absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

I suppose I could ask you the same, why buy the WS6 package on a 99 when you could have a 98 TA?

You'll be entertained to know I sold my 98 T/A for the Hawk.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

haha, I bought my WS.6 cause i like having the best quality i can afford. The WS.6 was that for me. Chromed rotors are not......

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

I like how everyone's so quick to dismiss the chrome rotor method without even trying it.

I followed the bedding instructions on my Autozone ceramic-porcelain pads and didn't notice a difference.

I like the uniqueness of my Firehawk. My rotors are unique too. If no one takes my idea, so be it, more uniqueness for me.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

They're unique cause no one else is willing to shatter a rotor so that they are bling bling.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

So, here are a few responses to the unexpected things going on in this thread:

1) I don't really want to pay for the new brake lines yet. That'll have to be done at a later time/date. I don't notice a "spongy" feeling in the brakes anyway.
2) I've read elsewhere that slotted and x-drilled rotors don't actually improve heat dissipation much and that they decrease braking power (the latter wasn't a big surprise, though).
3) This will be my first brake job. Are there any other things that need to be done that are just part of general maintenance? I'm a severe newbie and have always paid other people to maintain my cars for me. No more. What else needs to be done?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

What is so funny about this thread is that Absolut was being sarcastic and you guys fell for it, hook, line and sinker ...

If any of you "experts" would have read ANY of those threads linked very early on, yu would have known immediately that he was yannking your chain.

Now, why did he, TB and I yank your chain? Because

THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER ....

But, I will give all of you the short version.

holes and slot = driveway jewelry
gases form = 60s and 70s pad technology
performace increase = aggressive pad compound not by REMOVING rotor mass
performance increase = more swept are not by REMOVING rotor/pad area

VIP1

You noticed no difference because you were not able to bed the pads. Bedding the pads mean that some of the material is left on the rotor surface to improve friction and shorten stopping distances. It also heat treats the pads. Since your rotors are chrome, the pads cant deposite enouch material to properly bed them since chrome is relatively slick. Aslo, you said that you polish them when they look dull. At that point you remove the deposited material again negating the bedding process.

I dont think he was being sarcastic. Did you see the picture he provided of the chrome rotors? BTW, I don't claim to be an expert (because I am not). You and trackbird know more than I do (and have more experience).

Gauge:
While you are there, make sure that the caliper sliding pins are not frozen in place. They should move freely. In case you are wondering, the sliding pins are what the caliper bolts "bolt" into. They allow the caliper to move in its mount to allow for pad wear (this is a "floating" design). Also inspect the caliper pistons and all rubber boots. The caliper pistons should have smooth sides and the boots should be in good condition (no cracks/tears). A fluid flush would aslo be a good idea (your there already). When installing the wheels, tighten the lugs in a criss-cross "star" pattern to 100 lb/ft torque. Improper lug nut torquing increases the chance of rotor warping.

This might help you out:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm

Also, the E-brake on LS1 f-bodies uses a brake drum inside the rear rotors. Now is a good time to inspect them. The rotors may also be difficult to remove. Some on here have said that they needed a 3lb mini-sledge to get them off. Here is a thread about that:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
(page 2 has pictures)

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

You don't know him or know his background.

And you can find pictures of ANYTHING on the internet ...

VIP1

You are right. I don't know him.

True.

This is a dangerous subject to joke about.
If he was being sarcastic, it sounded too real to those who dont know him.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

To answer the ORIGINAL question (that could have been answered by reading ANY of the linked threads):

Do NOT be fooled into thinking slotted or drilled rotors help dissipate heat and reduce warping or cracking.

Read this carefully ...
AT THIS LEVEL, SLOTTED AND DRILLED ROTORS ARE COSMETIC ONLY!

If you want to pay $300 or more for a single alloy rotor AND install pads that generate a TON of heat, then MAYBE, the metallurgy of the expensive rotor is designed to help dissipate heat. But it's the metallurgy, not the holes. The holes fill with brake pad dust almost immediately PREVENTING the ventillation everyone proclaims that it helps.

Brembo OEM blanks have the best reputation that I have seen of late that reduces the risk of warping and cracking.

For street application, GM OEM pads provide good performance and very little dust. A Carbotech Panther or Panther plus or a Hawk Blue or Black will give you better performance. The price you pay for that performance is more dust and more wear on the rotor.

AllZWay

iTrader: (1)

This entire thread is hilarious.

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

I recommed the Brembo blanks and any set of ceramic pads for street use. They don't require much break-in, they are quiet, they have low dusting, and they are relatively inexpensive.

You can stop slightly better with a more aggressive pad.

Slotted or drilled or slotted/drilled rotors look nice, but don't offer a measurable performance increase.

Think about what you want out of your brake system....long life, quiet operation, low dusting? Or do you just want to stop as fast as possible and don't care about the drawbacks? There is a WEALTH of info on brake systems on this website...use the search feature. It is quite mindboggling...

Things to consider when you are changing the rotors and pads:
-Make sure you clean the wheel hub with a wire brush before installing the new rotors to eliminate any high spots that may cause the rotor not to run perfectly true.
-Don't hang the calipers by the brake lines...use a piece of a clothes hanger or something similar to tie it up out of the way.
-Use PLENTY of brake parts cleaner...make sure the rotors are completely free of the anti-rust coating, grease, fingerprints, dirt, etc before you install the brake pads...then give everything a good spray when you are finished to get a little spots you missed.
-Check the caliper mounting bracket to make sure the floating pins aren't frozen in place...if they are, you need to correct that before moving forward with the install.
-Make sure none of the piston boots are torn or rotting...if they are, you need to rebuild that caliper...not that hard, but does take a little time.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

I about pissed myself when I read this. then I saw it was absolut..........What was even funnier is that people started believing him.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Do you know how hard it was to just not say anything at all???? I bit my tongue so hard I nearly bit it off.

Funny stuff.

99HOSS

... I can't begin to tell you how hard it was to stay out of this.

best bang for the buck upgrade - Z06 front brakes on an F-Body

TightSS

Wow, if Absolut is pulling our legs...he could win poker tournaments. That was a pretty impressive LOB..line of bull. I'd like to know from him what was bull. VIP1 is right...too dangerous to joke about, and by the way, thanks for the links earlier. Cause I spent a couple hours reading them. That is how you help, not being a sarcastic, horse's....asssking one more question...

So what about cryo? could it extend the life of a good rotor? Or is that funny just because it sounds wacked? Really, just because you are an expert at one thing doesn't mean that at some point you will need to depend on someone else to be the expert. Does your doctor laugh at you when you go in for a checkup.......or is that just because you dropped your pants.......HA ha..

VIP1

I have heard of cryo-treating brass musical instruments but I have never heard of cryo-treating brake rotors.

TightSS

thanks, I guess I'll just walk funnier now that one leg is longer

TightSS

see this I found at CarboTech about Cryo:

The third step is our heat tempering process, which effectively cures the ceramic-based adhesive which was applied in step one (1), and also serves the purpose of out-gassing the pad compound material, thus making slotted and cross-drilled rotors unnecessary. Furthermore, slotted and cross-drilled rotors are more prone than a solid vented rotor to warping and cracking; our CRYO-COOL process, which is a computer-controlled cryogenic metal treatment process, can be used on rotors of any type to increase wear characteristics by at least 100%, and as much as 200%, while also increasing a rotor's resistance to warping and cracking - but this is another FAQ discussion altogether!


(maybe absolut needs to say what was fact/fiction)

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

It's all fiction. I manipulated a photo from my own website. (Original Photo)

I use Brembo blank rotors, like most of the enlightened, with Hawk HP+ pads (for now anyway) and ATE Super Blue fluid for autocross.

I wouldn't blow smoke if people would just try using the search button. As noted, the topic of drilled/slotted rotors is about beat to death, yet it still rears its ugly head, and people refuse to listen anyway. So as long as people want to buy the trendy thing and ignore the truth, I figure they may just as well save a few bucks and try it my way.

For daily driving, get the Brembos and a new set of stock pads.