Tech

iTrader: (1)

My roommate installed a Spohn torque arm that mounts to the g-load brace. When putting the angle finder on the driveshaft, it reads -2*. When putting the angle finder on the bottom of the torque arm bracket on the pumpkin, it reads +2*

What is his true pinion angle?

pimpmaro

I'll be the ***** to tell you to use the search button... there's been a TON of threads on pinion angle... although the problem is they all seem to say something different. BTW, I think you're in the wrong forum...

snketr

iTrader: (3)

Jason, I know it's a pain but, I've taken the driveshaft out and put the angle finder on the yoke and adjust it from there. That way no matter where you stick it elsewhere you know your angle is right. Then, put it back in and your good to stick the angle finder anywhere else it matches for future reference.

Andy

Tech

iTrader: (1)

I have used the search button. Look at my post count, I've been around awhile.

pimpmaro

sorry 'bout that... didn't even look at your join date. post count doesn't mean much to me, I've seen too many PWs....

I know TQ arms are in this section, but I've usually seen such posts under gears and axles. I've read a TON of posts on the subject under that forum. Good luck on the hunt, just tryin to help you get more info on the subject.

smokin' joe 00 ss

This is how you should take your measurement's
http://www.rosslertrans.com/Tips/Pinon.htm

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

Your pinion anlge is 0.

smokin' joe 00 ss

I don't think it is because of where the measurements were taken, if they were taken at the trans output shaft and on the pinion yoke then they would be 0 but one on the drive shaft and one on the TQ arm bottom flange won't come up with 0. He really needs to get a reading at the pinion yoke and not two horrizontal sp? readings.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

This is the correct method, you adjusted the P/A to +2 , that is your angle. You have to adjust it according to the measurment gotten from the output shaft of the trans then you able adjust it to get the CORRECT pinion angle.

jyeager

This link seems to be saying that the angle of the driveshaft to the pinion shaft isn't the issue, but rather the angle of the pinion shaft to the transmission output shaft....Well, we can adjust the pinion angle, but not the drivetrain angle. You'd have to adjust the ride height with the express goal of lining up the 2 centerlines.
I thought you just wanted the driveshaft parallel to the pinion to minimize the acceleration/deceleration effect of the U-Joint. (or when it's equal at both ends, does it equal out the effect?)

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

The idea is to get the proper working angle for the universals. The trans is a fixed angle. The ride height does not effect it.
You have to adjust the pinion to the proper angle for the universals to work correctly & last the longest.
When adjusted properly if you have a line stait out from the tail shaft & a line strait out of the pinon shaft, they should be parallel & never cross in a standard street suspension set-up.

pimpmaro

In other words... trans tailshaft angle + pinion shaft angle = 0... for a standard street suspenion set-up, right?

NO CATZZ

iTrader: (10)

His pinion angle is 4*(I don't know if it is negative or positive because I don't know how you were reading the angle finder). Pinion angle is the relation of the driveshaft and the pinion gear shaft..it has nothing to do with the transmission, vehicle being level or relation to level ground. If the driveshaft is pointing down 2* and the pinion is pointing down 2* then the driveshaft and pinion are 4* different in relation to each other. If your setup makes a shape like this \/ then it is negative and if it makes a shape like this /\ it is positive. Most stock vehicles are setup at 0* because it is the smoothest and the easiest on u-joints. The more extreme the angle the harder it is on u-joints and more vibration you will feel. Shoot for 1 or 2 degrees of negative pinion angle if this is a street driven car with occasional trips to the track. If it sees limited street use and mostly track shoot for 2-4 degrees negative pinion angle. It may take some test and tune time to find what angle works best for your setup.

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

you're saying just adjust for the rear u joint, but what about the front one? I had thought the point was to try and get the tans. tailshaft and the axle pinion shaft to be close to parallel, I think that is the most effecient setup. (is this the reason for adjusting the angle?)

You could argue that if the rear angle is 0 and the front angle is off a little, you are getting less loss because of the rear angle being 0, it is very efficient;
but I think that the most efficient setup overall is to have the input and output shaft parallel to each other, even if the two angles are a little off. I heard this before in some engineering theory stuff That way you have a "straight" tranfer of power instead of going off into different vectors and stuff
Does this sound right?

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

If your car is never driven, then setting it up parallel would seem right, 0* angle. Since your pinion moves up when accelerating/driving, wouldn't you want the pinion to be set up minus 1-2* from the driveshaft angle? I can see more angle at the drag strip becuase the pinion will move up more under WOT and good traction. So I really have to agree with NO CATZZ here...

Dan

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

There is the right way to do thing & what is percieved as right. Read to understand the terminoligy & methods. Universals have to have a working angle to survive on the street.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758
http://iedls.com/ptsetup.html
http://www.randomtechnology.com/Adju...st%20Instr.htm