Bilsteins, might be stupid question, but?
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Ok, I see all around that Bilsteins hd's are only for stock springs on the F bodys. Some places do valving to the fronts to make them be able to work with the aftermarket springs. I was at the track and my 02 Z28 was sitting next to a 02 WS6, the car was alot lower than my Z28. So if Bilsteins are only for the stock springs, what is considered stock? If I put 1 inch lowering springs on my z28, I'd be right about where the WS6 was stock, so does that mean I could use the Bilstein hd's and he couldn't, because his is lower. Might be a stupid question, but got me thinking that some F-Bodys come factory with different springs, so what is the limit that is safe with the Bilsteins.
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And real-world experience by many who changed to different or new shocks show that this does happen.
I know I sound like a broken record, but....... If you have only run certain things, you don't know what you are missing. What one person considers good, another could consider very poor. One must be careful when taking an individual's word for something, *ANY* individual, including myself. Which is why I always offer not only reasoning, but data as well.
Bilstein, the maker of the shock, feels they are unsuitable for lowered cars. More because they spring rates go up than just the fact the car is lowered, but the height does play in.
When driving HD's on cars with STOCK springs, still find a touch of float and a somewhat floppy response, though MUCH better than stock shocks. If you think that's good enough ok. I do not, and more spring will only make matters worse.
If you do a cam and heads, do you run a stock computer program? No. You could, but it would not be the best you can do. This is the same thing.
If you want HD's fine. But you should really sit down and consider why they might not the be best option for a lowered car, or a car that is meant to handle. I sell Bilstein's, and Koni's and a lot of others. I have no reason to lie to make a sale. I just think you ought to use what works best for your situation. If you think that's an HD and have all the details, then it's your choice.
I offer Revalves as a cost effective upgrade over HD's, and I have Koni's as well. In all honesty, I run Koni's and not Revalves on my car because I want that adjuster and the damping is awesome. But not everyone wants to spend that money, so I do Revalves as a *lesser* cost option to Koni's and a non-wallet breaking performance alternative to regular HD's. Again, if you think HD's are what you want. That's fine, I've done my best to make you aware of details I feel important.
I know I sound like a broken record, but....... If you have only run certain things, you don't know what you are missing. What one person considers good, another could consider very poor. One must be careful when taking an individual's word for something, *ANY* individual, including myself. Which is why I always offer not only reasoning, but data as well.
Bilstein, the maker of the shock, feels they are unsuitable for lowered cars. More because they spring rates go up than just the fact the car is lowered, but the height does play in.
When driving HD's on cars with STOCK springs, still find a touch of float and a somewhat floppy response, though MUCH better than stock shocks. If you think that's good enough ok. I do not, and more spring will only make matters worse.
If you do a cam and heads, do you run a stock computer program? No. You could, but it would not be the best you can do. This is the same thing.
If you want HD's fine. But you should really sit down and consider why they might not the be best option for a lowered car, or a car that is meant to handle. I sell Bilstein's, and Koni's and a lot of others. I have no reason to lie to make a sale. I just think you ought to use what works best for your situation. If you think that's an HD and have all the details, then it's your choice.
I offer Revalves as a cost effective upgrade over HD's, and I have Koni's as well. In all honesty, I run Koni's and not Revalves on my car because I want that adjuster and the damping is awesome. But not everyone wants to spend that money, so I do Revalves as a *lesser* cost option to Koni's and a non-wallet breaking performance alternative to regular HD's. Again, if you think HD's are what you want. That's fine, I've done my best to make you aware of details I feel important.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Thanks for the information and I'd rather be safe than cheap. But everyone is missing the main question I asked, What is stock. By what I read is that a stock isn't lowered and since some of the f bodys come from the facory lower than others and they say they are within stock specs. Could make a difference why some have better results than others and what type of shocks you get. Like before the guy next to me at the track was at least 1 inch lower stock from the factory.
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There are 6 different springs or so for the rear, but only about 3 for the front. Each is slightly different in length, but not rate. I actually did answer the question, the lowering itself has little effect, it's mostly spring rate. And all lowering springs are a higher rate than stock.
The cars that are actually lower stock are SLP Level 1 cars, and they come with SLP valved Bilstein's already. If a car sits 1" lower than yours and supposedly has GM springs, something is broken or the springs are all worn out.
Conversly, 1LE's are not lower, but are stiffer. Regular Bilstein's would not be exactly right for those either despite a normal ride height. Again, it's more rate than height, but height does play in.
The cars that are actually lower stock are SLP Level 1 cars, and they come with SLP valved Bilstein's already. If a car sits 1" lower than yours and supposedly has GM springs, something is broken or the springs are all worn out.
Conversly, 1LE's are not lower, but are stiffer. Regular Bilstein's would not be exactly right for those either despite a normal ride height. Again, it's more rate than height, but height does play in.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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#9
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Originally Posted by SSCamaro99_3
What would be right for a 1LE car? I have a 99 SS so the springs, bars, and such are 1LE.
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
There are 6 different springs or so for the rear, but only about 3 for the front. Each is slightly different in length, but not rate. I actually did answer the question, the lowering itself has little effect, it's mostly spring rate. And all lowering springs are a higher rate than stock.
The cars that are actually lower stock are SLP Level 1 cars, and they come with SLP valved Bilstein's already. If a car sits 1" lower than yours and supposedly has GM springs, something is broken or the springs are all worn out.
Conversly, 1LE's are not lower, but are stiffer. Regular Bilstein's would not be exactly right for those either despite a normal ride height. Again, it's more rate than height, but height does play in.
The cars that are actually lower stock are SLP Level 1 cars, and they come with SLP valved Bilstein's already. If a car sits 1" lower than yours and supposedly has GM springs, something is broken or the springs are all worn out.
Conversly, 1LE's are not lower, but are stiffer. Regular Bilstein's would not be exactly right for those either despite a normal ride height. Again, it's more rate than height, but height does play in.
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Hi
I am confused. If you go to Bilstien's web site, they sell the BTS system wich comes with shocks and lowering springs (with higher then stock spring rates). If their shocks are not compatible with loering springs, why does Bilstien sell them together?
Thanks JA
I am confused. If you go to Bilstien's web site, they sell the BTS system wich comes with shocks and lowering springs (with higher then stock spring rates). If their shocks are not compatible with loering springs, why does Bilstien sell them together?
Thanks JA
#14
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Originally Posted by JGA
Hi
I am confused. If you go to Bilstien's web site, they sell the BTS system wich comes with shocks and lowering springs (with higher then stock spring rates). If their shocks are not compatible with loering springs, why does Bilstien sell them together?
Thanks JA
I am confused. If you go to Bilstien's web site, they sell the BTS system wich comes with shocks and lowering springs (with higher then stock spring rates). If their shocks are not compatible with loering springs, why does Bilstien sell them together?
Thanks JA
#17
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Originally Posted by yekta
hey bro I installed Bilstein BTS kit [shox and springs] they work properly and perfect. I am just so satisfied with these I strongly recommend
Hi
How much did they lower your car?
Thanks JA
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Originally Posted by JGA
\
Hi
How much did they lower your car?
Thanks JA
Hi
How much did they lower your car?
Thanks JA
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The BTS kit is a street kit. Not really tuned for the best handling. It's marketing, pure and simple. I sell Bilstein's, and I sell the BTS kit too. But you can do better. If you are hell-bent on running HD's for some reason ok. But there are better springs you can team them up with than what comes in the BTS kit. If you want a BTS kit, I got 'em. But I wouldn't (and don't) use them on cars if I have a choice. The spring rates are higher ultimately than what I use on my autocross car. And if it was purely a street car (it is very streetable and I drive it a lot), I'd use even a little softer spring than I do, which is already softer than what the BTS kit uses. Then we add the fact the springs are big-time progressive. Progressive springs are impossible to damp properly all the time because the spring rate is always in flux. That's why serious suspensions, or race cars don't use them. Yet the BTS kit does. Why? Because it's easy, and most folks don't know better.
And lets not forget that what many folks think is good or bad is based solely on stock suspensions. About anything would be an improvement, and not a small one either. As one who gets to drive a LOT of cars, I'm in a position to try a lot of different things. And I'll tell you now that it's my opinion that HD's are still a touch on the soft side now and again even with STOCK springs on the car. I'm not alone in that, after all why do you think SLP had their shocks built? Why do you think that GM went with Koni for the 1LE's when they have a close relationship with Bilstein (Z71 trucks, C4 Vettes, some Tahoe's and Trailblazer's, etc all came with Delco-Bilstein's). HD's overall lack the rebound control that folks with bigger springs, or folks with stock springs and demand excellent control want.
And lets not forget that what many folks think is good or bad is based solely on stock suspensions. About anything would be an improvement, and not a small one either. As one who gets to drive a LOT of cars, I'm in a position to try a lot of different things. And I'll tell you now that it's my opinion that HD's are still a touch on the soft side now and again even with STOCK springs on the car. I'm not alone in that, after all why do you think SLP had their shocks built? Why do you think that GM went with Koni for the 1LE's when they have a close relationship with Bilstein (Z71 trucks, C4 Vettes, some Tahoe's and Trailblazer's, etc all came with Delco-Bilstein's). HD's overall lack the rebound control that folks with bigger springs, or folks with stock springs and demand excellent control want.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I know I sound like a broken record, but.......
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I guess it's kind of like having a single bad experience with a floor pan mounted torque arm and proclaiming them all bad, correct?
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Like I said, my HDs have seen a ton of track duty over the last 4 years and they seem none the worse for wear.
I would think for street duty, there should be no problem ...
If you are seeking tenths of a second on a road course or AX run, then by all means, spare no expense.
Spend your money wisely ... based upon real world NEED ...