tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

so my car has been making a clunking noise on bumps lately that i've been told is attributed to the pssngr side top shock bolt being slightly loose. today i decided to fix this problem (or try to), and as soon as i got to taking the shock off i noticed a slight tear in the ball joint boot (where the spindle arm attaches to the upper control arm). the idea before hand was to not separate the spindle arm from the rest of the shock assembly, but i'm assuming i have to do that now? can this be fixed easily? thanks.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

To remove and install shocks, I never seperate them. To fix the balljoint boot, you have a couple options (some are better than others). If the tear is small, you might try to seal it with a bit of silicone rubber. This will probably only work "reasonably well" on a pinhole. If it's a tear, you can try it, but you'll probably need to replace the boot. That will require you to "pop" the ball joint loose from the spindle. If you get it apart and get the boot off of it in something close to one piece, you have to hope you can find a reasonable replacement (you can try the "HELP" stuff at your local parts store). Energy Suspension made ball joint dust boots for many cars, but I don't think they do the 4th gens yet (if ever). The dealer will only sell the boot with the ball joint (we tore one once). Or, you can just live with it for a while (until the grease leaks out and the joint gets sloppy) and replace it. Or, you can just replace the joint now. It may last a while with a tear in it (depending on the size and how much grease it seems to be leaking), or it may not.

Sorry I couldn't be more help. Maybe someone knows where to get a boot that fits (I never found one, but I didn't look that hard).

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

i'm going to have to buy one from a-zone for $65 unfortunately. even worse, now, my lower shock bolt has stripped and rounded off. it isn't loose at all. i thought maybe cutting it off would be good, but i don't know how to get a replacement?

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

If you buy one from autozone, buy it from there website. In store its 65 bucks but online its 37 with free shipping!

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

****, good call! this is the part with the rubber bushing and the bolt that goes through the spindle arm, correct?

VIP1

Dont cut off the nut. Try the Craftsman damaged nut remover first.

Here is an example of what it looks like:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
There are other kits available, just walk into Sears and see what you need.
Hopefully there is one that fits that nut.
They also have kits for removing ground out screws and broken bolts.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

i bought an upper a-arm from a junk yard. it seems to have some creases in it as well (not as bad), and it's not torn and is not oozing out grease like the other one. the creases (that look like they could mature into tears), aren't that big of a deal, are they? my other a-arm (other side), seems to look the same, with slightly less crease-wear on them. a big deal or should i just not worry with it?

btw, that clunking noise i hear wasn't the top shock bolt, which is the whole reason i did this project. man it pisses me off that besides doing all this for nothing, the clunking is still there :angry:

VIP1

The cluncking could be a worn ball-joint or tire-rod end. Check them for excessive play.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

tie-rod?

since the ball joint was just replaced today, i don't think it is the problem.

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

Yes. The upper ball joint. The lowers are about 15 a piece. If you get the lowers then go to napa. They were the only place that had a lower ball joint with the rubber boot that would actually stay on after you pressed them in.

VIP1

They are the part of the steering linkage that connects to the spindle.

They have ball joints (2 -- one on each end of the tie-rod -- 3 tie-rods = 4 ball joints), which can wear out and make a clucking noise over bumps and contribute to sloppy steering.

I've replaced them on my father's van and my mother's old 1975 Malibu. I havent checked-out the steering linkage in an F-body, but it should be similar.

Since the f-body is a rack-and-pinion equipped sports-coupe (as opposed to a recirculating-ball steering equipped van -- I think) it probalby only has 2 outer tie-rod ends connected to the rack. This means that there would only be 2 ball joints in that setup.

Anyone more familiar with the f-body steering want to tell me if I'm right or far off?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

how could i find out if that's what is causing my clunking noise? when i hit a speed bump straight on i hear no noise, no matter how hard i hit the speed bump. if i go into a dip at an angle is the only time i hear the noise. even if i hit a dip straight on i won't hear it. and it doesn't matter how fast i'm going, i won't ever hear it when i go over a dip on a highway. slow speeds and going over a dip at an angle is the only time. but it is loud!

VIP1

To start off:
* Lift the front wheel off the ground.
* Have someone hold the steering wheel still.

Here is how to test for worn tie-rods:
* Put your hands at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the wheel
* Attempt to rock the wheel left and right.
* If the wheel rocks (especially with some noise), then the tie-rods are worn

Here is how to test for worn ball joints:
* Put your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions
* Attempt to rock the wheel top-to-bottom
* If the wheel rocks (especially with some noise), then the ball-joints are worn

Since you just replaced the upper ball-joint, thats most-likely not the problem.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

thanks, and i'll have to give that a shot!

is it normal for the tie end or ball joint to go on these cars?

VIP1

The driver's-side outer tie-rod has already been replaced on my car. I dont know if its common or not. I blame the bad roads.

Note: I didnt replace it myself. It was winter (cold, no garage, and I was busy) so I let a shop replace it. They used a Moog replacement.

When I got the car inspected, the inspection guy actually checked the tie-rods and failed me for a worn tie-rod. Thats how I found out it was worn. It wasnt noticeable yet. My father's van on the other hand....you definately could hear his ball-joints and tie-rods.

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

To check for worn out ball joints you can also place a crowbar inbetween the a-arm and spindle. Try to pry them apart. There should be very little (1/16") to zero movement, if there is a lot then they are worn. Be careful not to tear the boots though. Also, leave all of the bolts intact.

raysz28

iTrader: (1)

I am having the same problem on my 98 Z. Did your Clunking sounds go way after you replaced the tie-rods or ball joints???

Thanks,
Ray

Tuffguy610

iTrader: (2)

Wow, blast from the past! I would

* Lift the front wheel off the ground.
* Have someone hold the steering wheel still.

Here is how to test for worn tie-rods:
* Put your hands at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the wheel
* Attempt to rock the wheel left and right.
* If the wheel rocks (especially with some noise), then the tie-rods are worn

Here is how to test for worn ball joints:
* Put your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions
* Attempt to rock the wheel top-to-bottom
* If the wheel rocks (especially with some noise), then the ball-joints are worn

- I got some new upper ball joints just to be safe when I did my suspension for like $37/piece. Its really not that hard to do the upper ball joint. The lower control arm ball joint however, needs to be pressed in.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

If ALL you need is the "boot" for the ball joint, Energy Suspension makes them.....(Tie rods end boots also)