Drilled/Slotted Rotors
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Drilled/Slotted Rotors
I am looking to replace my front rotors which are now warped with possibly some type of drilled/slotted rotor. I have found some on ebay for about $95.00 shipped. Anyone ever tried them or know of any other place to get them that cheap?
Is it also true that you can actually turn slotted rotors but not drilled?
Is it also true that you can actually turn slotted rotors but not drilled?
#5
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There was a peticular and infamous thread on and about the use of cross drilled rotors and why not to use them. There was 30 plus pages of engineering, personal racing, and competition experience data in the thread, enough to choke a friggin horse and make you run the other way from using them. Not all of what was said, is in this posting, as it went thru the entire community and started threads on other boards, but you get the picture I am sure.
Cross drilled rotors are not the rotor of choice, in street and/or for competition use. All they are good for is the typical 'bling, bling'. But the biggest factor in our hobby is saftey...... in specific to a car that will be driven HARD. If its just a simple streeter and isnt used too hard, I guess it might be acceptable to use them.
Before you do anything, I will advise you to get the June copy of 'Grassroots Motorsports'. It has an explaination and data to snuff the description of a rotor being "warped". In short, its not warped. Not by a long shot. The physical science involved to actually 'warp' a rotor is beyond the dynamics of a street car..... or a race car for that matter.
The article I would like to point you to is:
" Brake vibrations: How to prevent “warped rotors.” (Just don’t use that term, okay?) "
It looks like this:
Cross drilled rotors are not the rotor of choice, in street and/or for competition use. All they are good for is the typical 'bling, bling'. But the biggest factor in our hobby is saftey...... in specific to a car that will be driven HARD. If its just a simple streeter and isnt used too hard, I guess it might be acceptable to use them.
Before you do anything, I will advise you to get the June copy of 'Grassroots Motorsports'. It has an explaination and data to snuff the description of a rotor being "warped". In short, its not warped. Not by a long shot. The physical science involved to actually 'warp' a rotor is beyond the dynamics of a street car..... or a race car for that matter.
The article I would like to point you to is:
" Brake vibrations: How to prevent “warped rotors.” (Just don’t use that term, okay?) "
It looks like this:
#6
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This may be the infamous thread of which you speak:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
(Dont do what absolut_speed said in that thread, he was joking.)
There are plenty of links there with good info.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
(Dont do what absolut_speed said in that thread, he was joking.)
There are plenty of links there with good info.
#7
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Yep.... it was on Altimas.net and purely put in check by the cats over at Cornercarvers.com...
And then over at Pro-touring.com...
And then at one of the Fox-body sites...
And then....
I wish I could provide a link, but, Altimas.net has changed their format and it might take me a second or three to find it again..... damn good comedy involved, but it was however, an excellent read for some hard core tech.
And then over at Pro-touring.com...
And then at one of the Fox-body sites...
And then....
I wish I could provide a link, but, Altimas.net has changed their format and it might take me a second or three to find it again..... damn good comedy involved, but it was however, an excellent read for some hard core tech.
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Just ordered some slotted only rotors from perfectbrakes. Also picked up some ceramic pads from my work. Hopefully these suckers will never sqeak again and may actually stop well for once...
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It's simple:
Brembo blanks
HPS hawk pads
Originally Posted by mitchntx
THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER ....
But, I will give all of you the short version.
holes and slot = driveway jewelry
gases form = 60s and 70s pad technology
performace increase = aggressive pad compound not by REMOVING rotor mass
performance increase = more swept are not by REMOVING rotor/pad area
But, I will give all of you the short version.
holes and slot = driveway jewelry
gases form = 60s and 70s pad technology
performace increase = aggressive pad compound not by REMOVING rotor mass
performance increase = more swept are not by REMOVING rotor/pad area
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Tire Rack is a start, or i believe that Stoptech might have some too. An even better reason to opt for Brembo blanks is because they're usually readily in stock wherever they are sold.
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Just bear in mind I'm not positive that Stoptech may or may not carry Brembo OEM replacements. If they don't have anything equivalent, then I believe that Autozone Duralast rotors might be worthy as well.