1) I am assuming the SA stands for shock absorber? I looked em up and i noticed there are a couple different versions. 2) I only worry about going fast in a straight line so which ones are best for me? 3) Last question, this would lower my car right, i dont want it slammed just a little lower, or do I need lowering springs also?

 

SA = single adjustable

 

The front Koni's can lower your car about 1/2 inch if you use the lower snap ring position on the the shock. For the rear, you can use lowering springs, but for just a little lower you could just cut a half coil off your stock springs.

 

SA stands for single adjustable. If you are more worried about straight line performance than handling, then you have other options you might want to explore. However, I like to note to folks that usually they like handling more than they realize since most of us drive on real roads most of the time. And ride and performance are important.

Koni's can lower the car a bit without the need for lowering springs, about 3/4" in front in most cases. And then we remove the rear spring rubber to drop the rear about 1/2".

So if you team the lowering ability with the handling and the fact you can soften the front shocks for drag racing, then you might want the Koni's. But from what little I see here (admittedly I'd prefer to speak to you first), I'd recommend a simple set of $329 Bilstien HD's.

 

I assume this is the rubber component on the top of the spring between the spring and the frame. Won't this spring still need some kind of rubber cushion there to prevent squeeks and damage from metal to metal contact?


I've always heard that the Bilstein HD's are valved too harshly for the stock springs and should be revalved.
I was getting close to ordering the Koni's but now I wonder if the HD's would be a good choice for me?
I've never had my car on a drag strip (so far), nor do I auto-X, but I do drive very spiritedly at times and I appreciate good control (especially here in the south were dodging pot holes is a national past-time & during WOT/high speed runs).
Assuming the above conditions, which set of shocks would you recommend Sam,
1. The HD's
2. The Revalved HD's you sell
3. Or the set of Koni SA's (4/3)

 

Well, when we remove the isolator, we do use some heavy rubber hose on top of the spring. Lest you have metal on metal rubbing which is bad.

HD's are not valved harshly at all. As a matter of fact they still a touch on the soft side. Valved for stock rate springs, and at certain piston speeds the DeCarbons are stiffer. We don't revalve softer, we revalve firmer. That's the case on rebound with my shocks or SLP's (and we carry SLP as well). But SLP is one-size fits all, and they soften the bump a touch. I don't soften the bump, and I add rebound on a case by case basis to work with the springs and use of the car.

Which is best for you is something we need to discuss. I need to get a feel for what you like, you need to understand how the shocks differ in the way the car drives. And those things can't be accurately conveyed by e-mail.

HD's are what should have been OEM on the car. All around pretty good. Revalves are done basically to fill the gap Bilstein left by not building a Sport valved shock like they do for almost every other car for use with lowering springs or more demanding folks. Koni's are killer, and the fact you can adjust them and they have a big damping range means you cover you bases. You can run them soft, firm, or anywhere in between. You can tweak them as you see fit....... Obviously something you can adjust gives you the most flexibility. Also you have option of the slight drop on stock springs that you don't have with Bilstein's on stock springs.

Note that I feel it's very important to be able to supply numerous products. That way a customer knows that a recommendation isn't simply sales driven, because if I have all of them it doesn't much matter what I sell. For me it's about what works best for the job. Often I'll recommend something less expensive (like I did just above with HD's) if I think it'll better suit the need. And (stupidly) just as often I talk folks out of things they thought they needed because they mis-understand the way the car and parts work.

 

Sam, how will HD's work with 1LE springs, and your sway bar package. I just can't com eup with the green for Koni's, and how much would a set of revalves be.

 

1LE springs are 19% stiffer in front, and range from 13%-36% stiffer out back than stock springs are.

Again, HD's are *meant* for stock rate springs. Can you try them with stiffer springs? Yes. Will they last a long or work as well? No, but it might be passable for your tastes. I'd never recommend it. After all, GM, who's normal shock valvings suck even knew that the 1LE rates needed more damper. The earliest cars use Revalved DeCarbon's, and 96+ came with Koni DA's on.....

Revalves are $500 for a set. I take the HD's, and add rebound force to account for the extra spring rate (and a touch more most of the time because HD's aren't overly stiff to start with especially up front). Also, I base Bilstein revalve rates on what we discuss, but also known Koni settings as a comparison. I shoot for a Koni feel at X setting, you just don't get the ability to change that.