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Who has actually broken their tailshaft?

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Old 08-08-2008 | 02:39 PM
  #21  
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I can tell that it was under hard braking that you broke it based on the down ward shearing of the trans tail housing. Do you experence a bit of wheel hop under hard braking? The shock load when that happens leads to this type of failure. The factory bracket is stamped steel that does not distribure the loads evenly to the mounting bolts, major problem. That mount in the picture was a early experiment dealing with the same issue, finally went with A BMR so that I could adjust the axel center with the lower body height (nice feature) took care of my problem, would highly recommend.
Old 08-08-2008 | 04:13 PM
  #22  
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I believe the breakage is more commonly from the
driveshaft whipping (stock steel 'shaft reused after
gear swaps, especially) than the TA load.

I like the look of that clamshell and always wanted
to see somebody make something like that, but
that mounted sandwich style between the trans
and trans tail mount to get the stout base but
use the trans mass to soak up the vibration. To
have it strap the tailhousing too, is fine, but making
the torque-return path go right to the tail mount
is even better in my view.

Something like this would be the answer for all us
weekend warrior, still want a smooth ride types
who can't stand the downside of the crossmember
mounts.
Old 08-09-2008 | 12:37 PM
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Wouldnt the simple solution be a chassis mounted t-arm? Or are there any major perks to the full length t-arm that Im not aware of?
Old 08-09-2008 | 02:34 PM
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broke mine twice on a dyno
Old 08-09-2008 | 03:40 PM
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third pull on the dyno mine took a crap on me. I still have the steel drive shaft as well as a prothane tranny mount and motor mounts. I had a vibe at 55mph and higher it got worse with the speed but i thought it was just the stiff mounts. I broke my tail shaft i dont think it was all the TQ arm but a mixture of that and the steel shaft. i replaced the tail shaft housing and put the stock mount back on no viberations I think imma try a alum drive shaft and that BMR relocated TQ arm mount abouve
Old 08-09-2008 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Hmm seems to be a lot of these things breaking on the dynos..... Was the front of your cars strapped down resticting the front from raising at all when they broke?
Old 08-09-2008 | 06:28 PM
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Mine broke on a little freeway run. After I left off and was coasting boom! I have a Spohn T/A now and haven't had any issues ever since.



Old 08-09-2008 | 06:57 PM
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Dang man thats scary stuff. I couldnt imagin doing any speed getting trans fluid dumped all over the tires....
Old 08-10-2008 | 10:27 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by toadzq8
You could allways do this!
That looks sweet, I'd run one.
Old 08-11-2008 | 11:01 AM
  #30  
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mine just broke last Friday. ORY-Catback and Lid w/ 315s was all it took. Car was launching great with the 315s then BANG!
Old 08-11-2008 | 11:52 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by zz4camaro1980
mine just broke last Friday. ORY-Catback and Lid w/ 315s was all it took. Car was launching great with the 315s then BANG!
Your sig says your car is an M6. Did you break the tail housing on the T56?!?
Old 08-11-2008 | 01:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by toadzq8
I can tell that it was under hard braking that you broke it based on the down ward shearing of the trans tail housing. Do you experence a bit of wheel hop under hard braking? The shock load when that happens leads to this type of failure. The factory bracket is stamped steel that does not distribure the loads evenly to the mounting bolts, major problem. That mount in the picture was a early experiment dealing with the same issue, finally went with A BMR so that I could adjust the axel center with the lower body height (nice feature) took care of my problem, would highly recommend.
Yeah - I've had a long battle with rear wheel brake hop. In fact, my car has/had it more than most people. I've finally got it dialed out and/or under control with an Unbalanced Engineering TA, split-rate shocks, custom rod-ended control arms, heavier rate springs, brake bias (less rear pad) and lowered rear.
Old 08-11-2008 | 03:14 PM
  #33  
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The unblanced eng TA is the way to go. Do you drive it on the street? and do you get much clunking going from brake to the gas hard
Old 08-11-2008 | 03:36 PM
  #34  
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Sorry - my car is road-race only. In fact, I have a race version of the arm. Difference is that my tunnel mount ties directly into my cage, instead of bolting to the floor of the car.

As far as its effectiveness, it's a very good modification. I get very predictable results with it, now that it's properly setup. The brake hop is almost non-existant (though I'm not sure anything is completely eliminate it). At the end of the day, I'm usually in the top 3 and fighting for position. That's good enough for me!
Old 08-12-2008 | 06:04 AM
  #35  
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Great! keep at it, I raced a old TR4A in SCCA back in the day. I miss road racing, it was the best!
Old 08-12-2008 | 06:32 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by YellowB4Z
Your sig says your car is an M6. Did you break the tail housing on the T56?!?
yup, ripped the top bolt right out of the tail housing.
Old 08-13-2008 | 11:48 AM
  #37  
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yes my car was strapped down in the front when it was on the DYNO 3rd pull was all she wrote
Old 08-13-2008 | 12:12 PM
  #38  
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With the body mounted torque arm do you get harmonics or more vibration through the interior of the car?

I just got done fighting with a poly trans mount that was causing horrendous harmonics.
Old 08-15-2008 | 06:01 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by -Freak-
With the body mounted torque arm do you get harmonics or more vibration through the interior of the car?

I just got done fighting with a poly trans mount that was causing horrendous harmonics.
gotta get rid of that steel drive shaft
Old 08-15-2008 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by crzytown69
gotta get rid of that steel drive shaft
Dumbest advise I've heard in a long time.


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